Clincher Fitting Tips
Last night I spent literally about two hours fitting new Vittoria Corsa G2 (clincher) tires on a pair of HED Ardennes+ wheelset. I have never had this much difficulty putting tires on a wheel in my life. My hands are wrecked.
I squeezed the tires as much as can towards the middle of the rim but without much improvement. Finally, I gave up and used a plastic tire lever but the idea of getting a flat and having to spend half an hour on the side of the road is truly scary. Maybe tires sitting in the cool basement past week added to my struggles. Should I have left it outside under the sun a little? What are other tips that I can use? I put a bit of some soap around the rim but it got a bit messy. Maybe it wasn't enough. I also started fitting the tire near the valve then moved up. Should I have started the other way? Anyways, tips and tricks are welcome. thank you! |
Use a different set of tires that are an easier fit on your rims.
Get a Koolstop bead jack. Carry it with you on rides or hope the tires stretch out. I do start opposite the valve because you can squeeze more of the tire from there, but for my hands' sake and sanity I just use the Koolstop unless the tire is well-stretched. |
Originally Posted by surak
(Post 21676393)
Use a different set of tires that are an easier fit on your rims.
Get a Koolstop bead jack. Carry it with you on rides or hope the tires stretch out. I do start opposite the valve because you can squeeze more of the tire from there, but for my hands' sake and sanity I just use the Koolstop unless the tire is well-stretched. |
I've had such problems mounting Conti tires onto the Fulcrum rims on my Bianchi that I ended up mounting the Contis on other bikes that have Velocity rims first, riding them for a few rides, and THEN moving them to the Fulcrums. Right out of the box, I've never been able to do them without levers, but once they're stretched out a bit, I can even take them off the rim without levers.
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HED Ardennes+ are a pain to get tyres onto. I've found most tubeless-ready clinchers rims I've fitted tyres to require at least two levers...though my hands aren't the strongest. Warmimg up tyres on the radiator at home does ease the fitting a little. The tyres fit slightly quicker the second time around after being on the bike for a while under pressure, just that little bit of 'give' with usage.
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Originally Posted by rower2cyclist
(Post 21676443)
Amazing, I had no idea such a tool exists. Just ordered it on Amazon. Thank you!!!!
BTW some tire/rim combo's are notoriously difficult to mount, so in the future you may want to ask around. |
Originally Posted by genejockey
(Post 21676508)
I've had such problems mounting Conti tires onto the Fulcrum rims on my Bianchi that I ended up mounting the Contis on other bikes that have Velocity rims first, riding them for a few rides, and THEN moving them to the Fulcrums. Right out of the box, I've never been able to do them without levers, but once they're stretched out a bit, I can even take them off the rim without levers.
Originally Posted by Bob the Mech
(Post 21676516)
HED Ardennes+ are a pain to get tyres onto. I've found most tubeless-ready clinchers rims I've fitted tyres to require at least two levers...though my hands aren't the strongest. Warmimg up tyres on the radiator at home does ease the fitting a little. The tyres fit slightly quicker the second time around after being on the bike for a while under pressure, just that little bit of 'give' with usage.
Originally Posted by datlas
(Post 21676546)
It's a great tool to have. Once the tires are on, any subsequent changes should be not quite as painful as the bead stretches a fraction of a mm.
BTW some tire/rim combo's are notoriously difficult to mount, so in the future you may want to ask around. |
Originally Posted by rower2cyclist
(Post 21676569)
Thanks all I need is that extra few milimeters. Hopefully they are stretching just a little on the wheels now.
Yes, will def warm up the tires beforehand next time. Although we down't have radiators in our house. Such foreign concept in the US. I miss living in a house with radiators way better than air heating! |
Originally Posted by Bob the Mech
(Post 21676598)
Or immerse in warm water...I'm from the UK...everyone has a radiator here :)
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Originally Posted by rower2cyclist
(Post 21676355)
Last night I spent literally about two hours fitting new Vittoria Corsa G2 (clincher) tires on a pair of HED Ardennes+ wheelset. I have never had this much difficulty putting tires on a wheel in my life. My hands are wrecked.
I squeezed the tires as much as can towards the middle of the rim but without much improvement. Finally, I gave up and used a plastic tire lever but the idea of getting a flat and having to spend half an hour on the side of the road is truly scary. ! Uninstalled and put on the Hunts. I think you'll find that now you've got the tires on... inflate them to close to max and let them sit (or ride them).. In a day or so, or if you get a flat sometime in the future, those same tires will go on quite a bit easier than they do out of the box.
Originally Posted by Bob the Mech
(Post 21676516)
HED Ardennes+ are a pain to get tyres onto. I've found most tubeless-ready clinchers rims I've fitted tyres to require at least two levers...though my hands aren't the strongest. .
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What size tires? I have a set of wheels for which mounting a 23 mm tire is an ever-loving pain, but the 25s go on without too much trouble. Another reason to go to 25s.
Also, for combos that are a challenge and I'm gonna use a tire lever, I finish right at the valve, with the valve screw tight to keep the tube out of the way. Cuts way down on accidental tube punctures from tire lever pinch. I'm not one of those heroes who can mount any tire with my hands. Not me. That koolstop tire jack can help, but it's not magic. If the fit is really tight, you can just end up breaking the jack. Ask me how I know. |
I’ll just add 2 minor tricks that have worked for me: 1) use flat tire levers such as Schwalbe’s and use all 3, levering 2 in close proximity with the back of your hand then wedging the 3rd in where you can. The middle of the 3 always falls to the floor then which is OK but not dropping the other 2 without having them snap back or pinch a tube takes practice but is entirely doable.
2) Save your thumbs and hands by wearing snug fitting work gloves to roll that last bit of stubborn unmounted bead up and over. |
Originally Posted by rower2cyclist
(Post 21676355)
I also started fitting the tire near the valve then moved up. Should I have started the other way?
I've also heard a lot of people swear by bead jacks, but I have never tried one. I've never seen a bead jack that looked like it could be effective AND fit conveniently in a saddle bag or jersey pocket, so I will probably never buy one either. |
Originally Posted by MinnMan
(Post 21676731)
What size tires? I have a set of wheels for which mounting a 23 mm tire is an ever-loving pain, but the 25s go on without too much trouble. Another reason to go to 25s.
Also, for combos that are a challenge and I'm gonna use a tire lever, I finish right at the valve, with the valve screw tight to keep the tube out of the way. Cuts way down on accidental tube punctures from tire lever pinch. I'm not one of those heroes who can mount any tire with my hands. Not me. That koolstop tire jack can help, but it's not magic. If the fit is really tight, you can just end up breaking the jack. Ask me how I know. They are 25mm but still they were super tight, like not a millimeter space available like tight. Jack is something to have in the toolbox I guess. I'll see how it works next time I try to fit new tires.
Originally Posted by masi61
(Post 21676813)
I’ll just add 2 minor tricks that have worked for me: 1) use flat tire levers such as Schwalbe’s and use all 3, levering 2 in close proximity with the back of your hand the wedging the 3rd in where you can. The middle of the 3 always falls to the floor then which is OK but not dropping the other 2 without having them snap back or pinch a tube takes practice but is entirely doable.
2) Save your thumbs and hands by wearing snug fitting work gloves to roll that last bit of stubborn unmounted bead up and over.
Originally Posted by BoraxKid
(Post 21676833)
Yes, you should have started fitting the tire from directly opposite the valve, and then finished at the valve. The way I was taught, and what has worked for me for years, is to finish at the valve. That way, you can use the valve to manipulate the tube and make sure it is not under the tire bead, nor will it be dragged over the sidewall should you need to use a tire lever. It also helps to make absolutely sure that the first tire bead is seated in the direct center of the rim before you install the tube.
I've also heard a lot of people swear by bead jacks, but I have never tried one. I've never seen a bead jack that looked like it could be effective AND fit conveniently in a saddle bag or jersey pocket, so I will probably never buy one either. Re where to start fitting the tire, I think you may be right. There's def more room around the valve area and pulling the valve while fitting the last section to avid pinch flats is the safer approach. Thanks all! |
Originally Posted by rower2cyclist
(Post 21677533)
They are 25mm but still they were super tight, like not a millimeter space available like tight. Jack is something to have in the toolbox I guess. I'll see how it works next time I try to fit new tires.
... Bead jack is just plan B, or maybe plan A if it makes the whol3 process even a few mins faster. But you are right that thing is super bulky for saddle bag or jersey pocket. Maybe I should just tape it on the tip tube haha. ! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7da8868fd3.jpg |
https://www.quora.com/Lately-I-have-.../Drew-Eckhardt
Understand rim construction, use two wraps of 1 mil Kapton rim tape, and apply proper technique. That will let you comfortably install and remove tires using your bare hands that had you cussing at tire levers. ... |
Originally Posted by rower2cyclist
(Post 21677533)
pulling the valve while fitting the last section to avid pinch flats is the safer approach.
If you pull down on the valve, then there is a chance that the tire bead will land on top of the tube. If that happens, you'll see a big "tube tumor" form as you try to air up the tire. If you see it happening, you can always deflate and re-seat, but if you are on the side of the road using CO2, you will end up destroying the tube and/or wasting your CO2. This is why I use a mini-pump to check that the tire & tube are correctly seated before I deploy the CO2. |
Lezyne extra long tire levers
I have broken a bead jack trying to install a tire, but often does the job. I have old hands and arthritic thumbs so anything that can help install or remove I welcome. These extra long levers are long and strong and really accentuate your leverage. I was putting Conti 4000 tires on Roval carbon wheels and thought I'd die and kill my hands before I succeeded. These tire levers eventually did the trick.
https://ride.lezyne.com/products/1-tl-powrxl-v1nl04 just saw these, maybe even better: https://ride.lezyne.com/products/tub...e79605db&_ss=r |
Originally Posted by Sy Reene
(Post 21677748)
See if you can find a VAR tool.. works well enough for 25mm tires, though once beyond 28mm tires I'm not sure. Size and shape works fine in eg. center rear jersey pocket.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7da8868fd3.jpg |
Originally Posted by eflayer
(Post 21678403)
I have broken a bead jack trying to install a tire, but often does the job. I have old hands and arthritic thumbs so anything that can help install or remove I welcome. These extra long levers are long and strong and really accentuate your leverage.
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Ditto, that Kool Stop bead jack. I stick it in my jersey pocket every ride until I'm sure the tires I'm riding can be mounted without the bead jack. It's lighter in weight than my mini pump, not really a hassle to carry. Sometimes I'll use a Velcro strap or bungee to attach it to the outside of my saddle bag.
Tire mounting varies a lot with ease or difficulty, and repeated mounting/removing can *sometimes* loosen the fit. But not always. My trick is to mount the valve stem side first, then pinch it up into the tire casing (to move the fatter base of the valve stem out of the way), gradually pinching the tire together to center it along the rim into the recess. Often that makes the difference between needing a bead jack or using my hands. And avoid using rim tape that reaches too far up the rim wall -- it can hinder seating the tire into the bead hooks on some rims. I usually use Velox or other cloth tape around 10-14mm wide at most, just enough to cover the spoke holes. As long as the rim is clean and the tape has some tack, it'll hold in place. With Continental Ultra Sport II, I need the bead jack every time. Those things never get any easier. Wire or folding bead, they're by far the tightest fitting tires I've used. Schwalbe One V-Guards were very difficult to mount the first couple of times. They gradually got a bit easier, probably due to excess tire mold nibs rubbing off the bead. Continental Grand Prix Classics were difficult the first time but since then I've been able to use my hands to mount 'em, despite arthritis. These have become my go-to tires because they ride well, don't cost much and are easy to mount/remove. And they look good if you like skinwalls. Vredestein Tricomp Fortezza were about like the Conti GP Classics, pretty easy to mount after the first time. Ditto, an old 700x20 Michelin TT/triathlon tire, don't recall the model. Vittoria Zaffiro wire beads are pretty easy to mount but terrible tires so they collect dust in the closet. Harsh ride at full pressure, sluggish at lower pressure, skid easily and the tread cuts easily. Worst road bike tire I've ridden. For the same money, about $10-$15 per tire, the Conti Ultra Sport II is far superior, despite the PITA tight fit and needing a bead jack. I have used wide, smooth edged Bontrager tire levers instead of the bead jack, but half the time it'll nick the tube and I'm back to square one. Not worth the hassle. |
Originally Posted by Bob the Mech
(Post 21676516)
Warmimg up tyres on the radiator at home does ease the fitting a little.
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Originally Posted by znomit
(Post 21680196)
Which is odd because rubber contracts when heated. Have you tried freezing tyres before fitting?
So.. this ole wives tale about heating up tires has evidently been a bunch of hooey?! Maybe it made sense when wire bead tires were more a thing? |
I just put some Corsas on my bike, the first time I have installed foldable tires. I found these difficult to install compared to old school tires in the past. I installed these two ways. the first by trying to place the slightly inflated tube in the tire, then slipping both beads over the tire. The second time, I did as the instructions said. I first installed one bead, then placed the slightly inflated tube in place, then worked the second bead over. MUCH simpler and easier.
Danny |
G
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5f27884ae.jpeg Got this bad boy in the mail yesterday. Planning to try this a few times today. It arrived right after my big ride yesterday. Luckily didn’t get any flats. Hopefully 85mi & 9000ft climbing relaxed the tires a little :). I think the size is good to carry in my jersey pocket. |
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