Dura-Ace 7700 left shifter issue
 

9 speed DA 7700, left shifter is not lifting chain on to large chain ring, but the H Limit is not limiting the range, if I manually lift it

When you pivot the lever, what happens, or doesn’t happen? Does the derailleur move? Or does the derailleur move but not guide the chain?

derailleur moves but not enough to guide chain to large chain ring

What is the ft der? If a matching series one is the cable correctly routed about the anchor bolt? Is the crankset also a matching one? Is there much loose cable when in the default position (the small ring)? If the cable was disconnected from the der and held by hand and then the shift lever cycled through it's range what happens? Will it pull the cable and hold it's large ring index position? Is there a barrel adjuster in the system? Have you followed any instructions and base lined the system? Andy

Full group DA 7700. No barrel adj on Ft der. I put in new cable. The way you’re phrasing your ?’s, making me think about the lack of an index when I shift up, or

Ok, got it. Was it working prior, or did you do some work on it, and then it stopped working? As usual, hard to diagnose thru a series of texts, but let’s start:

1. can you pull on an exposed length of cable, say the segment under the down tube, and successfully move the front derailleur until it hits the stop, and while pulling the cable, turn the crank and spikes the chain engage the large sprocket?

2. Two thoughts come to mind: you have too much slack in your cable system, or the front shifter is sticking. Both are fixable, but tell me what happens when you try #1 above.

wondering if the shifter is shot? It is not a strong big ring index

IIRC this shifter has a trim feature for the big ring's index position. Could it be that this is what you are thinking is the full indexing click? The trim feature will be less distinctive in feel and sound. Have you done the detached cable held by hand while moving the shifter through it's range yet?

The lack of a cable tension adjuster is just stupid set up. Andy

if you suspect the shifter, it probably needs a good cleaning and lubing. I’ve rehabilitated many Ultegra shifters. In my cases, the shifters would not click, or would do so erratically. It’s an easy job, and can be done while mounted in the bars. Let me find a helpful video that I used. Standby.

yes, can pull on cable until the H stop, and it lifts the chain on to the big ring. But I’ve tried to pull the slack out, still can pull the slack,

Here’s a short video on cleaning and relubing shifters. I’ve successfully used this method at least three times to make shifters good as new. However , I did not apply the grease as shown in the end. Basically I flushed it with degreaser and lubed with Boeshield T9. The grease seems like a dust and dirt magnet. The Boeshield seems sufficient as a lubricant.

Seeing you don’t have a barrel adjuster to remove slack, Ttry this:
shift lever to small chain position.
loosen cable clamp.
remove chain from chainring and set on bottom bracket.
push derailleur with your hands maybe 1/3 way between small and big chainring.
with free hand, pull cable thru pinch bolt and secure bolt.

this will require trial and error to get sufficient slack out.

Thin lubes 9and wax based ones) don't seem to last long compared to grease types. If wax was better then be sure that is what Shimano would have used from the get go. Whatever lube is used one should keep up with periodic servicing (lubing or cleaning if neglected for too long) of the shift pods. Andy

I totally agree that grease is a better, long lasting lubricant. The problem is I don’t think it’s possible to apply grease to the pivots of an assembled shifter. The guy in the video slathers it onto a few external point on the mechanism. It just look like an invitation to attract dirt. Plus grease on the face of a non moving part does no good. It’d be better to just apply a dab of grease to the pivots and sliding surfaces, but not sure if that’s possible on an assembled shifter.

Some of the older and lesser versions of road shift pods have a good access to the internals (or good for Shimano, no where as nice as Campy:)) and air blasting solvent out, oil in and some coating of grease is quite easy. But the better grades and newer versions are rather well enclosed. Still air blasting and thin then thick oil soaking does a nice job. I have used a needle injector (Lil Phil gun) to augment lube with grease best possible. I do remove the lever/pod unit from the lever body. Makes this stuff far less messy and the flushing more complete. Andy