Px-10?
 

Pr10. No chromed half stays. 3 tubes 531. Decals and lugs are the same as my 72 px10 so I would peg it right around the same time.

I'd say it's about a 1974 PA-10E, according to this catalog.http://www.bikeboompeugeot.com/Broch...0Page%2015.jpg

Just popped up on craigslist for a low price, I was just curious if it was worth my drive.

Parted out the crank, saddle, barcons and frame are likely each worth the price of admission depending on price. Other than those I would put it at a few hundred dollars all sorted.

If it is your size and rides similarly to my PX10 then I would grab it now and ride with some different brake levers.

It looks to be taller than the 58cm advertised. Looking again, I think Narhay is correct, that it's a PR-10, catalog spec'd at 23lbs vs the PX-10's 21lbs. Not as original as claimed, but still, a nice pickup for $160. I mean, component-wise, there's good value in the wheelset, saddle, crankset, seatpost, and calipers. If you were putting together a bike, you'd spend a bit more than $160 for just those.

This is my mid 70s PR 10; I paid $60 for the frame, headset, and BB. Nice riding bike, plus what's not to love about the classic Peugeot paint scheme. I reckon the posted bike is an early 70s based on the decals but I could be wrong on that.

https://www.bikeforums.net/picture.p...ctureid=528690

It could be a PA10 if the crankset was upgraded, but it's more likely a PR10. It's definitely not a PX10. If you want to be sure, get a measurement for the seat post diameter.

Is it just me? Or do the forks have some extra bend?

I was thinking the same thing

Just came here to say: Fork is possibly bent. Pretty sure it's a PA10. PR10 would have a larger-diameter seat post in the high 26mm range. PA10 would have a steel post in the lower 25mm range, if memory serves.

Even if the fork is bent, seat, barcons and brakes should net over $100 on eBay (or even here) and could potentially justify buying. Be sure to inspect for cracked lugs and DO hanger hacking and use both as possible haggle-down.

My seatpost for '72 PX-10 is 26.4, others indicate their '72 PR-10 was 26.6 :foo:

Fork does look a bit too vertical now that I see it. Regardless, as a part-out it is worth $160.

That's correct - PR10 is 531 tubing (on the main triangle only), so mid-upper 26mm range would be pretty normal.

We know this likely isn't a PX because the fork isn't 531, it's got the crown typical of the cheaper bikes.

If those are straight Mavic Championnat Du Monde tubular rims & Normandy hubs, there's $100. for the pair.
Stronglight crank set perhaps $75.?
Brooks saddle $50.

My original PX-10 seat post is 26.4.

I think it's the frame that's bent, not the fork. Buckled so that you can feel dimples under the top and down tubes aft of the lugs. And that's probably an Ideale 80 saddle.

PR10 purchased
 

I picked this up this afternoon. Local friend of sloar - I've got 3 of his bikes in my little collection, so far:)

Best I can tell it's a PR10 as there is a small remnant of the Reynolds 531 decal on the seat tube. BB # is 0542867, indicating 7 digits and a '70's frame, with "0" suggesting 1970. Square head badge says it's '71 as do rest of the decals match up from what I've found on line.

Stronglight crank, pedals, Mafac brake calipers, Ideale saddle, Normandy large flange hubs, and Simplex bits like drop outs, skewers, top tube cable guides, and derailleur cable guides all look right for the model. Suntour shifters and derailleurs are period correct, but are not original. Shimano brake levers gotta go.

Original paint and decals, will need clean and detail. Not sure what my plan is here. I bought it because my very first nice real 10 speed when I was a kid was a white Peugeot.

Original Simplex RD hanger intact?

Yes, it is, just covered up by the Suntour's hanger.

And by the way, I did check the head and down tubes, no dents or damage. All lugs are nice. There was some concern about the angle of the front fork. Nothing is bent here.

Nothing damaged or bent. Yes on the saddle, thanks.

I see the voids you're talking about now, your photos are way better. Seat post diameter will tell for sure, waterslides can be reapplied after purchase.

PS: Excellent purchase. Great value.

Very, very nice bike. I rebuilt a similar era PR 10 last summer (mine is a mid 70s) from a frame set I picked up.

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...good-ugly.html

I'd lose those brake levers and get some mafacs. If you put up a WTB in the C&V sales forum, someone will sell them to you. Rustines makes hoods for them including the half hoods which are, I think, cool. The bike obviously needs a complete overhaul.

You'll have a few tough decisions. One is whether you want to keep the tubulars or go with clinchers. Tubulars are nice and you don't have to pay a bomb for them but you have to deal with gluing them on. The other is whether or not you want to go with simplex derailleurs. I did on my build and I got lucky finding some but they can be expensive especially if you want long cage ones. Personally I'd keep those derailleurs. They're period correct and they work better than the simplex ones will.

Welcome to the PR 10 club! And once you've fixed it up, you can post pics here,

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...bikes-105.html

You can get a reproduction 531 sticker here

http://www.velocals.com/

Thanks, it's been cleaned up just a little bit in my photos following pick up. I will have to measure the seat post properly tomorrow.

Nice find, it will be a great riding bike and should look great as well.

Those levers can be disassembled and have hoods fitted, what I did for a local gal here a few years back. The auxiliary levers are super-solid on these, they actually ARE the main lever and the "normal" levers act as auxiliary to those(!).
You have to cut a big hole so the screw head can rotate freely as the lever moves...
not French, and no cable adjusters, but...

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8028/7...c458dde2_c.jpg

Thanks so much, awesome link to your build. Will read it tomorrow!