Gazelle: A Fresh Build — graphics heavy and descriptive
This is my Gazelle Champion Mondial — an ‘AB’ frame. [EDITED: I believe its production is c.1987]. It was assembled for German export in the ‘handwerk’ shop as were all A, AA and AB frames. But, because of an international patent dispute at the time, the 'Mondial' was cancelled out of the ‘Champion Mondial’ decal on the top tube.
I acquired the bare frame from Europe. Subsequently, no attention was made to equip the machine with what would have composed the original build. The idea was to use vintage parts I had on hand, or new production pieces that I could easily obtain here in Japan — but only and if they would not clash with the vintage character. I did stick pretty close to a vintage Shimano 600 transmission — but for the shifters. The gearing was designed for the sort of exercise training I do on a regular basis. I took too long to build this bike, but after a few rides I feel it was well worth the time and effort. All sorts of little glitches came to frustrate what I thought was going to be just a sort of “Mechano-Set” assembly. So after all the trials, fretting, filing, reaming, redesign and meditation, I promised myself that I would post documentation of the build up to the t*ts. I did not tart the bike up before photographing it with my old Canon IXY-10. No wax and no metal polish except on the rear rim. All the photos have been reduced for screen resolution at 72dpi for fast loading and economy. The originals are of higher resolution and more suitable for printing — if I should ever feel so vain :) NOTE: Asterisks denote new parts applied at the time of the build. Frame diamond: hand-brazed Reynolds 531c; BB shell pinned at ST and DT junctions Forks: Reynolds 531c Stays: Reynolds 531c * Head set: Tange Passage DX * Quill stem: Nitto Technomic (cut down to accommodate the db down-tube) If you think was easy ...!!!!! Lug set: unknown (some other members are sure to know) * BB: TangeSeiki (cartridge); LN-7922. 68-113 (technically speaking, it should have been 110) Rims: Mavic ‘Monthlery’ tubular type Hubs: Shimano 600 HB-6270 * Hub bearings: Dura Ace Skewers: Campagnolo NR * Tires: Vittorio Rally 21-28 tubular type Crank set: NOS Shimano 600 Tricolour FC-6400 * Chain wheels: Shimano 44T FC-7900 / 39T FC-6400 * DT shift levers: DiaCompe friction type with SunTour, knock-off internal ratchet FD: Shimano 600 Tricolor FD-6400 RD: Shimano 600 SIS RD-6208 Freewheeel: Shimano 600, FW-62XX?: 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21 T (very smooth); removal tool, Dura Ace FW-10 * Bars: Nitto Universidade 105 * Cables: Shimano with SL housings * Seat post: Nitto S-65 Saddle: Brooks Professional (brown) Pedals: MKS Sylvan Lites Toe clips: MKS L-size (and I am only size 9) Straps: MKS ‘fit Alpha” Paint: Original with touch up and clear-coat * Stay protector: Anodized adhesive foil cut to shape * Bar tape: Dixna * Bar ends: Cellini HT protector and cable "donuts": unrecorded Lubricants used: TriFlow, Wakkos race-car red bearing grease Addenda: Diode lighting front /rear and bell affixed according to Japanese ‘motor vehicle’ ordinance. A spare tubular will be tied under the saddle. I carry a miniature pump (Allen wrenches and wallet) in a 'bum pack'. Please see three posts of four (4) photos each. Apologies — I should have used my ancient Nikon-F and had the results digitized — :) |
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Set-2
[URL=http://s646.photobucket.com/user/SA8900/media/Gazelle_AB-5_zpscpzsdlqp.jpg.html]http://i646.photobucket.com/albums/u...pscpzsdlqp.jpg[/URL http://i646.photobucket.com/albums/u...psubfyd5cz.jpg http://i646.photobucket.com/albums/u...psrxw3glpn.jpg http://i646.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps9k7akgku.jpg |
Gorgeous! I have recently become aware of Gazelle...it is migrating toward my list of "want" bikes...but...before I jump, I want to understand the differences in "A," "AA," and "AB" frames...
But...you have done a great job on this bike! |
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Originally Posted by daf1009
(Post 17778223)
Gorgeous! I have recently become aware of Gazelle...it is migrating toward my list of "want" bikes...but...before I jump, I want to understand the differences in "A," "AA," and "AB" frames...
But...you have done a great job on this bike! |
I like that handlebar tape. Is it native to Japan?
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Originally Posted by daf1009
(Post 17778223)
Gorgeous! I have recently become aware of Gazelle...it is migrating toward my list of "want" bikes...but...before I jump, I want to understand the differences in "A," "AA," and "AB" frames...
But...you have done a great job on this bike! |
Nice build! Looks mighty comfortable. :thumb:
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Wow, this is fun. How did you need to cut the stem?
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Originally Posted by daf1009
(Post 17778223)
Gorgeous! I have recently become aware of Gazelle...it is migrating toward my list of "want" bikes...but...before I jump, I want to understand the differences in "A," "AA," and "AB" frames...
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Originally Posted by icepick_trotsky
(Post 17778296)
I like that handlebar tape. Is it native to Japan?
I like this tape a lot, and the colour was, in my opinion, bang on. It was not too difficult to wind on, but I did do some back-tracking and rewinding. These "Mays" type bends like the Nitto-105 are not an easy wrap. My favourite tape is Bontrager. And if you need this colour, I'd look to see what they have for you. I have Bontrager on my Vitus 979, and the bar always feel like the "right fitting glove". But this stuff feels good too! The Bontrager may not have the punch-throughs. They are a challenge to line up. |
I have cut a Nitto Technomic with a Dremel & a cutting disc. Took about 5-10 minutes. Used file to smooth edges.
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
(Post 17778439)
I have cut a Nitto Technomic with a Dremel & a cutting disc. Took about 5-10 minutes. Used file to smooth edges.
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Originally Posted by bikemig
(Post 17778454)
That's a great way to deal with the technomic as it can be too tall for some builds.
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Originally Posted by noglider
(Post 17778365)
Wow, this is fun. How did you need to cut the stem?
THE CASE AT HAND It was an on-the-job lesson. You cannot just saw an angle on the tube. The cut has to progress on a decreasing radius. If I am not explaining this well-enough, trust me anyway! I have done this twice when long-quilled Technomic stems had to go into db steering tubes. The first go was on a Dawes Atlantic I built for a friend. I began a cut with a Canadian blade (Japanese blades work in reverse). And I was thinking: 'I'll just cut the 45 degree or so angle, and then the expansion plug will bung it up tout-suite.' WRONG! Shortly before the complete horror set in, I stopped. I realized what was happening. Then I re-thought the whole thing through. So — uhhhh — there I was with the wrong cut and a bit of a notch in the stem tube. I redesigned the whole cut, but the problem was I could not figure out how to make a template. Instead I just wrapped some tape on the angle and restarted the cut. Alas, a huge bastard cross-cut file made the final result presentable. (For those who do not know, a kind of file is called a 'bastard".) This time around with the Gazelle, I managed the compound radial cut in sections that were pretty darn smooth. If you do it, be careful not to snap the blade. Again with the file to finish, I produced exactly the same profile as the original. I do not feel any public pride in this. But privately I feel satisfaction: many, many years ago a guy who rebuilt vintage race-cars and cut metal for my old, English Triumph-Norton [Triton] road racer motorcycle showed me what patience and a LOT of thinking can do. It had been a long time since I had cut serious metal. At first I panicked, and then I remembered my dear old friend. I think that is why I am on BF. My old friend is gone — but you men and women are here.:thumb: |
Originally Posted by Velocivixen
(Post 17778465)
There is also a Nitto Deluxe, which is tall, but a bit shorter than Technomic "standard" height. Ben's Cycles in Mikwaukie sells a huge variety of Nitto stems.
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
(Post 17778465)
There is also a Nitto Deluxe, which is tall, but a bit shorter than Technomic "standard" height. Ben's Cycles in Mikwaukie sells a huge variety of Nitto stems.
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Velocifixin: Thanks — some good advice
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Originally Posted by non-fixie
(Post 17778370)
Have a look at this site. There's a page on the various models, complete with detailed specifications.
Thanks for providing the site...I have started looking through it...basic question is...which frame is the "best"?? From the specs shown, it is hard to determine...is the "A" the top of the line? Or the "AB"...which way does it go? |
Originally Posted by daf1009
(Post 17778605)
Thanks for providing the site...I have started looking through it...basic question is...which frame is the "best"?? From the specs shown, it is hard to determine...is the "A" the top of the line? Or the "AB"...which way does it go?
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Originally Posted by daf1009
(Post 17778605)
Thanks for providing the site...I have started looking through it...basic question is...which frame is the "best"?? From the specs shown, it is hard to determine...is the "A" the top of the line? Or the "AB"...which way does it go?
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Perhaps @Italuminium will weigh in on this thread. My recently acquired Gazelle frame is an AB frame also. What I found online was slightly inconsistent, or perhaps I should say had some info missing about the early models. From what I was able to learn the AB frame was the pure racing frame made from 531C with no eyelets, and occasionally produced with a number hanger under the TT. (Mine has no number hanger.) It was definitely later in the production run as if in response to some demand.
There is a nice description here: Lightweight Classics: 1979 - Gazelle Champion Mondial AB-Frame I have seen catalogs online but don't recall where, don't have time to hunt around right now. |
I've tricked my back up, so for a few days I've been off riding. But during the last two rides, I was beginning to think that the AB bike was designed as a road racer *** crit bike. Call me wrong, but I don't think this was unusual back in the days when money was not so plentiful for most riders — especially the youngsters. It's a dual purpose frame, and don't mean "clubman" race on Sunday ride to work on Monday. It is solid, but it handles quick, and you really gotta watch you don't stick your toe in the wheel. I should work out the geometry one day.
Mine was also built with no eye lugs for anything. And, there is no provision for a number plate. But it's convincingly a pure racer; it's as stiff as hickory on a frosty morning. With a pegged BB it is rock solid. The stays tell you every crack in the road. There is no way I am ever going to bend it standing up out of a corner. |
Thanks for the mention, @jimmuller, but I'm by no means a Gazelle expert, although I rode a series of Gazelle three speed roadsters ("opafietsen") through high school and college. I've never even owned a CM! (Yet). I do believe @non-fixie is right in his list of A-type frames. But, like any chum in this place with a passing interests in Gazelle bikes, I have to steer by the thankfully large
repo of Gazelle catalogs online. |
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