Bjorn bikes at Jenson (stainless steel frames)
 

They just started to bring these in and for the price they asking you are getting a very solid build with a stainless steel frame. Even the wheels are more than decent with DT Swiss C1800 Spline 23's. Cowchipper bars as well. I honestly would not change a thing from their build kit.

Max tire size is 700x45.

https://www.jensonusa.com/Bjorn-Recy...xclusive-Build

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a15482b7bc.jpg

That's a sharp looking bike.

1x isn't what I would ever look for, but it is trendy, so I get why its spec'd.
Not a ton of stack height on the largest size.
And the HTA is super slack. Wonder what the trail is.

That is some bizarre geometry. $3200 for Rival hydro seems a bit much. But that geo.. I literally have no idea what size I'd be..

It's basic xc mtb geometry designed around a short stem. The bike will handle great off-road. Looks like around a 60-50mm stem give or take so take your normal reach number you like and add around 40mm and that's your size for this frame.

Low end drivetrain and wheels at this price point is not very impressive. But hey, it does look cool.

this. You'd think GEO would be the first thing to look at, but apparently not on BF.

It's as if people in this forum have never seen or ridden a mountain bike. Didnt realize gravel bikes had to follow a set of rules just like road bikes.

I'm curious as well. I guess that 69 degree head tube angle is what makes the effective top tube longer than normal for each size than other compact frames. I wonder why the stand over is higher on the small than it is on the medium?

As someone who builds his own frames, I have the opportunity to build something, ride it and make adjustments on the next frame. My current frame has a 70.5 degree head tube angle with a long effective top tube and 50 mm stem. My next one will probably have a 69 degree head tube angle.

The long front center and slack head tube angle puts the front wheel ahead of your hands and greatly reduces the feeling that you're going to go over the bars when hitting obstacles or descending.

I'm glad some manufacturers are finally getting the hint that a gravel bike is not just a road bike that can fit wider tires. It really should be a rigid mountain bike that is designed for drop bars and a road crankset.

I'm not a fan of the 1x drivetrain or the aluminum fork on that bike, but I don't have any problem with the geometry of the frame.

The first 3 posters in this thread are by people who looked at the geometry and have commented on it. And geometry of the bke is discussed in the first 6 of 7 posts in the thread.

What more are you expecting?

Ok, I missed that this is an aluminum fork. Thats a curious choice as it bucks the carbon fork trend and...well thats just odd. Its really not on anything else I know of at or near this price point. Interesting, and at first thought that isnt in a good way.

As Spoon said - how is fork offset/rake not listed? At least tell us trail, even if the tire size isnt then listed as that will help narrow down the range. But really- why isnt fork offset listed? That is a critical measurement to understand how steering will most likely feel, and thats pretty personal to each rider.
HTA, STA, fork rake, chainstay length, stack, reach, BB drop, ETT. These 9 measurements should be listed for any bike being sold or even advertised on the internet. There is simply no good reason to not list them. And if standover as well as head tube length are listed, then super.

Are you implying I didn’t look at the geo? Because I did. I’m not a mtber so I had no idea I was supposed to add 40mm or whatever.

I promise you I had no idea I was supposed to be taking mountain bikes into the equation here. Absolutely no clue. I don’t do mtb bikes.

no, I was referring to you being the first to mention Geo, with the first reply being "sharp looking bike"

because you know "Sharp looking bikes" are more important than Geometry, be it road, cyclocross, or MTB

Ha- apparently the comments below from that same post arent worth recognizing?


Not a ton of stack height on the largest size.
And the HTA is super slack. Wonder what the trail is.

Ah, gotcha. My reading comprehension must be off today lol.

Gravel bikes need to employ a more modern cross country mtb geometry to be really capable offroad. Center of gravity is very important off-road so you don't go over your bars when hitting an unexpected rock or root or whatever on the trail. You want the bike to respond to a sudden change of direction quickly. Long stems with short reach do the opposite. At the end of the day I feel gravel should basically be cross country with a drop bar.

A good example of this is the evolution of cross country geometry as a whole. The norm used to be that cross country bikes were basically a road bike with flat bars. Because of this they handled like absolute crap on tech. Manufacturers started to employ a middle ground between your really slack enduro and steep road type geometry. Once that happened short travel bikes all of a sudden became incredibly capable and now you have 100-120mm travel mtbs that can pretty much handle anything you throw at them.

Fork offsets are not important in mtb because manufacturers design the frame around a predetermined offset from the beginning. For example on a 29er mtb you have 2 offsets - 51mm and 44mm. You can ride a frame with a crazy offset fork and at the end of the day not even notice it because the geometry was designed around that offset. So you can have 2 frames with huge differing offsets feel exactly the same once you ride it. Shorter offsets were introduced in mtb anyway so the wheelbase can be shortened while still having a very long and slack frame.

I don't frequently take my gravel bike offroad. Many roads are unpaved, and they're often chunky and rough, but they're roads.

The frame and fork may well be reasonable alongside each other, but I still want to see the specs for both so I know what sort of bicycle I'm buying.

Ouch
Bloody nose 👃

Recycling??
 

It is assumed that we give a hoot about recycled steel used in making the bike?
really!?

I think it is rather awesome actually....especially when you see the mountains of thrown away bikes in landfills. I've been wondering if/when someone would start doing it.

At work we had a demo project that involved getting rid of tens of tons of steel...part of the labor bill was paid for simply by recycling all the steel. About half was painted, the other half was plain torch-cut.

I think the term "gravel" is so loose and the category so wide that I this statement is generalising too much what and where people ride their gravel bikes. The category really is massive it covers poorly paved roads all the way to single track and everything inbetween. Some gravel bikes are going to be better at the smooth stuff while others will be "really capable offroad." That is one thing that makes gravel so fun, everyone brings a little something different with their equipment choices. Show up to a gravel ride and you might see everything from road bikes with 28s to hardtails.

That is funny - everyone has a different defintion of "gravel bike"
Some want a drop bar mountain bike (long, low, slack)
Some want an agile fat tired road bike (shorter wheelbase steep head tube, higher BB)

Bottom line - its hard to figure this bike out without specs like Stem length (seriously, what size would I order)?
Fork offset would help determine what the bike's abilities are on the agile vs stable spectrum - although that head angle and wheelbase certainly point it towards the XC MTB range.

The problem with defining "gravel bike," is that there's such a range of gravel and such a range of bikes, and such a range of companies with different visions for their products. Most of my gravel roads are hardpacked and at least 1.5 car-wide, and most of my routes are a mix of pavement, pathways, dirt roads and an occasional section of easy singletrack, so my gravel bike is essentially a comfortable road bike that will fit wide tires. Someone that rides steep, rough and rutted fireroads, lots of two track and trails, sandy, rocky stuff that would destroy my bike in short order-their gravel bike is going to be much closer to a mountain bike than a road bike. Then you need to factor in the source of the bike-if a company has a background in trail-oriented bikes, their gravel bike is likely going to be closer to a mountain bike. A roadier company will produce something more like mine, a road bike tweaked slightly for comfort and stability, with clearance for bigger tires. The term "gravel bike," is a marketing label anyway-I'm glad it has broadened the appeal and availability of the sort of bikes and gear that I've preferred for years, but it's a single term that covers a lot of territory.