Race Face Crank arm removal
 

I am trying to remove my RaceFace crank arm to convert my bike to a 1x11 system
I removed the 8mm bolt, however I am pretty sure I need a crank pulling tool/press, since this isn't self pulling.
I guess the right tool for the job it's this one from Park Tools -> https://www.parktool.com/en-int/prod...d-cranks-cwp-7
My problem it's that I live in Romania, and I can't wait that long for that tool to be delivered.
Can anyone confirm if this tool is similar and can get the job done? -> https://www.marosbike.ro/scule/bbb-e...powerpull.html

Here are some images for a better guidance.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c48984e586.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...16bdf915a3.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f19dc66f14.jpg

Tool needs to be ISIS compatible which I see in the description

So long as it will work with ISIS like dedhed said it should work. Unior is basically the Euro Park Tool but they make other tools as well. However if you can get them that would be a better option: https://uniortools.com/eng/product/1...k-puller#19534.

That is the right tool. Several companies make them. I've attempted to remove a very similar RaceFace crank arm without that tool and it's a non-starter.

Are you sure that's not a self extracting crank arm? is that a threaded "cover" around the crankarm bolt that you had to remove before the bolt. If so, then it's self extracting. Put the bolt back on, then the cover and then unscrew the crankarm bolt against the cover.

I managed to take it off and install the new chainring, but now I am facing a new problem.
The quick link, gets snug onto the chainring, causing the chain to drop.
Anyone else had this issue?
The chain is brand new (has about 100km on the old drivetrain 2x11), and the quick link is new as well.
It doesn't get stuck on the cassette teeth neither in the jockey wheels, only on the chainring.
Maybe that's happening because it's a chinese chainring (Snail) from AliExpress. :)
Any help or suggestion it's highly appreciated.
Thanks to all.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d5f7f3e023.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...47365e449d.jpg

Spyder looks large compared to the chainring- is there some interference between the chain and where the ring attaches to the spyder?

Nope, that is enough clearance for the link to run freely.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...118ab39fa6.jpg

Never heard of the ring but it is small enough looking to potentially cause issue and being it is some alibaba and his 40 thieves stuff it is probably not of much quality. I would get a RaceFace NW ring they are generally pretty reasonably priced and really high quality and last quite a while. I might try something a touch larger but I have a feeling their NW ring would be just the ticket. I have used one on my parts bike for 5+ years and no issues from 7-9 speeds and the new ones are 11 speed compatible (and maybe 12 as well)

I totally agree with you :)
However, I took the quick link from my road bike and attach it to the MTB chain for a quick test, and what do you know...It works like a charm.
So, I will buy a new quick link today, and let you know the outcome :)

I got a new quick link, and everything is working properly.
I guess that was something wrong with the other one.
Anyway I am glad I solve it.
Thanks to all. 👍😁

The quick link has 12S on it for 12 speed chain. Is that a 12 speed chain?

Yes, I use 12 speed chains on both bikes, despite the fact that I have 11 speed systems. I like that it shifts better and it's less expensive than the 11 speed chain.

You took the arm off to change the chainring...?

Yes. I made an entire video on Youtube with the conversion process. If you want to see it here it is:

Sounds like the quick link got a little bit bent. Did you have to remove it?

--Shannon

Yes, I replaced it, and now everything works nicely.