Incorrect fit causing hand pain?
Hello, I'm new to the forum and drop bars and any kind of bikes using them and picked up my first such bike, a used Motobecane Grand Touring, for $275 a few weeks ago. I've noticed it is not the most comfortable bike and I initially thought it was something I had to get used to but haven't yet. I get pain in the palms of my hands when using the same position for just a couple minutes. It was particularly bad when riding the hoods because my hands would slide down into the brakes and cause pain between my thumb and index finger. It was also kind of difficult to squeeze my brakes from there. I talked to someone at a bike shop today and he suggested rotating the bar back so there is a flatter surface leading up to the hoods but this puts the drops in an awkward position. The guy said it's difficult to fix that problem with old bikes because of how the hoods were designed to be pointy and less ergonomic but there must be some way to fix this rather than just buying a newer bike! I also have foam grips on my bars, could this be contributing to the problem? When I go over bumps and cracks in the road there are certain pressure points on my palm that get pain and numbness shooting up them. Another piece of info I might add, the frame is 59 cm I believe and fits just under my crotch, so maybe a bit too big for me. Any help would be much appreciated! I tried to add pictures but apparently I can't until I post more.
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Yes. Switch out your current brake levers for a set of Tektro brake levers: https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...et-black-black
You can buy them many places, this was just the first on google. As you can see, they are modern and inexpensive, though they are a good product. I have a pair on one of my bikes which has bar-end shifters. Bar shape also makes a difference because the brake hoods need to blend with the bar to some extent. More reading: https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycl...l#post12953035 https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...bar-setup.html Drop Bar Hand Positions: an Introduction Another problem can be too much weight on the hands which can be caused by the saddle being too far forward. In which case, moving it back can help. Moving the saddle back also increases reach which many people aren't used to. But see the photos in the Numb Hands post. As long as you don't have more reach than that, you're OK. |
Numb heads are typically caused by a combination of excessive reach and stack (height). If your current vintage handlebars are probably 25.4 dia with 100mm (they might even be 110 or 120) reach you can try these modern-style compact bars by Uno that measure 25.4* x 70mm. They'll decrease your reach at least by 3cm. Then you might lower your quill stem all the way and try that position with these compact bars. https://www.ebay.com/itm/UNO-alu-Roa...-EK_R5hFzoB6Rw
The vintage brake hoods are also pretty narrow and uncomfortable too, as Carbonfiberboy indicates. Compact bars and new brake levers to modernize your cockpit might be good idea. Think shorter reach and lower bars. Vintage bikes have enormously tall head tubes which easily creates excessive stack. On my vintage bike I ended up getting a quill stem 1-1/8" adapter with a -25 degree stem in combination with 31.8 dia compact style bars. You could also accomplish the same thing with a Nitto Jaguar (track) stem using the 25.4 Uno bars. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311.R2.TR2.TRC0.A0.H0.Xnitto+jag.TRS0&_nkw=nitto+jaguar+ste m&_sacat=0 Here's a good stem calculator you can use to contemplate different stem and handlebar combinations http://www.yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php What is your height? 59cm vintage frames would fit someone 6ft / 183cm-ish. EDIT: *It's come to my attention these bars are 26mm diameter, not 25.4 as erroneously described by the ebay seller. |
Originally Posted by Clem von Jones
(Post 20455885)
What is your height? 59cm vintage frames would fit someone 6ft / 183cm-ish.
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The frame size has absolutely 100% no chance of having anything remotely to do with serious hand pain. The number one culprit of creating hand pressure/ hand pain, by a huge margin is having the seat tilted down. Having the seat down is a serious hand killer.
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^^ yes. I'm 5' 8" and ride 54-56cm. Maybe 59 not too large for you. Try moving your saddle back to rear more...
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BITD, the recommendation was 9"-10" less than your leg length, measured by, for example, jamming a book into your crotch while standing with a wall behind you - mark the top of the book, and that mark to the floor is your leg length. The 1"-2" was for prevention of pain and injury incase you had to stop very short and came down hard on the TT.
I'm 5' 7", with legs slightly shorter than average, and I could easily ride a 56. I rode a 58 for a while, and I dumped it only because I came down on the TT hard - but at least some people here scoff at that possibility. I suspect the 59 is OK for you, though perhaps slightly big. Sizing now has people on bikes that seem very small to me for a given body size. What have you been riding? If you haven't been riding, is carpal tunnel syndrome a possibility?. |
My first guess would be the saddle is too far forward and/or not level. Setting it back a couple millimeters should help shift your weight more rearward to take pressure off your hands.
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I am 6' tall, 190lbs and have an inseam of 34". Have the leg length of a guy that would be 6-2 but with a shorter upper body than most 6 footers. Currently riding a Trek Domane SL5 58cm frame. The bike fits me so much better than any other I have owned in the last 40 years but I still get nerve pain in my left hand (I am right handed if it matters). I get numbness along the side of my hand where my pinky is and I get a numb pinky after about 15 miles on the road. I change hand positions frequently but still end up with pain and numbness eventually. Sometimes on longer rides like 50 miles plus I will also get soreness in the muscles that go from my neck to my shoulder but only on the right side.
I can't really afford a $275 fitting right now but was wondering if there are any clues in my description that might indicate what the root cause is. I do feel too stretched out when I am fully on the hoods or on the drop. Most comfortable riding position is above the hoods with my hands on the curved section but this is where the numbness gets me if I stay there any length of time. Everything else is perfect, no saddle issues etc. Just wish I could solve this one last issue. Have a century coming up and I don't want to finish with my left hand feeling like a dead club.... Thanks, Dave |
Dave, I think you're riding position is too high. You're getting the jack-hammer effect that travels up your arms into your shoulders and neck. The solution is lowering the bars. By lowering the bars and decreasing reach you can resolve both the hand numbness and sore shoulder and neck muscles. I think you're frame is a bit on the large side so I would consider decreasing the reach about 30mm and putting the bars as low as you can get them. Flip the stem to the negative side and slam it. Consider negative rise stems like the Syntace Flatforce, FSA SL-K -20, or something similar if your headtube is too high.
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DO NOT rotate the bars back if you are happy with the drop position. If you want to change your on-the-hoods position, only change the position of the brakes. If you rotate the bar back to change hood position, you will mess up your drop position. Always set the bar rotation first, then set the brakes later for a good, flat on-the-hoods position.
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Hand pain/numbness is most likely caused by too much pressure on the hands. The solution is almost always correcting your position on the bicycle. Ride with weight distributed between pedals, saddle, and hands. Elbows should always be bent. If the bike is too big... you'll be unlikely to get a decent fit.
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A tall frame is also long, consider; a shorter stem ..
higher up (up angle type, or stem raiser & different length) helps shift weight onto your saddle/backside.. your ' Motobecane ' French made ? that means parts need be French standard.. Brand name has sold off, now the newer " Motobecane " is only a name, Bike it's applied to, is coming from Asia.. so component part switches, simpler.. ..... |
Originally Posted by Clem von Jones
(Post 20549055)
Dave, I think you're riding position is too high. You're getting the jack-hammer effect that travels up your arms into your shoulders and neck. The solution is lowering the bars. By lowering the bars and decreasing reach you can resolve both the hand numbness and sore shoulder and neck muscles. I think you're frame is a bit on the large side so I would consider decreasing the reach about 30mm and putting the bars as low as you can get them. Flip the stem to the negative side and slam it. Consider negative rise stems like the Syntace Flatforce, FSA SL-K -20, or something similar if your headtube is too high.
Thanks, Dave |
I am 5’7”-5’8” in 5/10 bike shoes. I can damage myself trying to stand over my 54cm bike frame. Someone early on said I needed a 52cm frame, maybe? Unfortunately there is little consistency in how bike companies measure their bikes. There is even less consistency in human anatomy. Bike fitting is more of an art, even though there is valid science involved. Flexability, injuries, nerve issues.....all can play a part in all sorts of combinations. I am finding the ultimate solution is in experimentation. The only thing I know for sure is herniating all but one cervical vertebra does not make it easier & definitely increases hand numbness. |
I rode a 2004 Lemond road bike for about 12 years until it wore out and I just replaced it with a new Fuji. My new bike has 31.8 mm handlebars that are flattened on the top and I noticed that I have had significantly less hand pain with the new bars. When I reconditioned my old bike and tried riding it I found that the old 26 mm handlebars are much too painful. When I replaced them with a modern handlebar (and a shorter stem) I found my old bike was also quite comfortable. The modern brake / shifters are also much more ergonomic and comfortable on long rides.
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Originally Posted by Brofessor
(Post 20553467)
DO NOT rotate the bars back if you are happy with the drop position. If you want to change your on-the-hoods position, only change the position of the brakes. If you rotate the bar back to change hood position, you will mess up your drop position. Always set the bar rotation first, then set the brakes later for a good, flat on-the-hoods position.
This is one of the most important adjustments on the bike. Don't put permanent, good expensive tape on until you KNOW the handlebars, rotation and lever positions are right. (I just put new levers on a bike I've had while just ot get the fit better.) Edit: I do not like the modern ergo bars. All of my bikes have old school bars and Tektro levers (or Cane Creek - basically high end Tektros) My setups look old. I ride with my seats relatively far forward and with some tilt down and I put real weight on my hands. But dialed in right, I can put very long days on my bikes with no hand issues at all, riding with unpadded gloves. Ben |
Originally Posted by oldbear63
(Post 20584326)
I rode a 2004 Lemond road bike for about 12 years until it wore out and I just replaced it with a new Fuji. My new bike has 31.8 mm handlebars that are flattened on the top and I noticed that I have had significantly less hand pain with the new bars. When I reconditioned my old bike and tried riding it I found that the old 26 mm handlebars are much too painful. When I replaced them with a modern handlebar (and a shorter stem) I found my old bike was also quite comfortable. The modern brake / shifters are also much more ergonomic and comfortable on long rides.
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Originally Posted by HTupolev
(Post 20586939)
31.8mm and 26mm are the diameter where the stem clamps the handlebar, not the diameter of the handlebar where you hold it. Nearly all road drop handlebars, vintage and modern, use a 23.8mm diameter for the areas with circular cross-section everywhere except the stem clamp.
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Old style handlebars
Originally Posted by oldbear63
(Post 20584326)
I rode a 2004 Lemond road bike for about 12 years until it wore out and I just replaced it with a new Fuji. My new bike has 31.8 mm handlebars that are flattened on the top and I noticed that I have had significantly less hand pain with the new bars. When I reconditioned my old bike and tried riding it I found that the old 26 mm handlebars are much too painful. When I replaced them with a modern handlebar (and a shorter stem) I found my old bike was also quite comfortable. The modern brake / shifters are also much more ergonomic and comfortable on long rides.
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Got pictures of the bike and of you on the bike?
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So lately I've had a lot of time to draw and have been doing so daily. This used to never be a problem but I used to only draw for 2hrs a day, often less. Now I'm drawing anywhere from 3-6hrs a day and have been getting sharp, severe pain in my drawing hand because of it. I've noticed it's only when I'm doing detail work, such as painting scales or fur, not when I'm drawing basic forms or adding color. Taking breaks and doing stretches on the afflicted hand hasn't helped much. Once it starts, any form of drawing will make it worse and I'll have to quit for the day.
Anyone else deal with this? Anything I can do beyond limiting my drawing time? And since I know someone is going to mention this, I'm already going to the doctor soon for an unrelated issue and plan to bring this up. I'm just wondering if anyone else has experienced this and found a way to treat it. |
Originally Posted by rdrsonthstrm
(Post 20662395)
……... severe pain in my drawing hand ........Once it starts, any form of drawing will make it worse and I'll have to quit for the day.
Anyone else deal with this? Anything I can do beyond limiting my drawing time?. |
Originally Posted by rdrsonthstrm
(Post 20662395)
So lately I've had a lot of time to draw and have been doing so daily. This used to never be a problem but I used to only draw for 2hrs a day, often less. Now I'm drawing anywhere from 3-6hrs a day and have been getting sharp, severe pain in my drawing hand because of it. I've noticed it's only when I'm doing detail work, such as painting scales or fur, not when I'm drawing basic forms or adding color. Taking breaks and doing stretches on the afflicted hand hasn't helped much. Once it starts, any form of drawing will make it worse and I'll have to quit for the day.
Anyone else deal with this? Anything I can do beyond limiting my drawing time? And since I know someone is going to mention this, I'm already going to the doctor soon for an unrelated issue and plan to bring this up. I'm just wondering if anyone else has experienced this and found a way to treat it. When I was having trouble, I did these several times a day and the problem went away. I also started sleeping with my hands flat and underneath my pillow. That helped, too. |
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