Weight concerns with super light racing bike?
Hey 👋 everyone so question for you all, does anyone here over 250lbs currently ride an older vintage racing bike with very thin tires? Does the bike well the wheels hold you without any damage to the wheels?
I just picked up a Sekai racing bike that has 700 x 28 tires and I’ve never seen tires that thin. I’m still researching the bike and I don’t know yet the weight limits on the wheels. I’m wondering if I will need to wait to attempt to ride this bike until after I have lost some weight. I’m actually preparing for Bariatric surgery in November and currently am at 266 pounds and I’m 5’8. I know I won’t be riding the bike at all before next Spring since I’m working on fixing up another bike. But I’m still very new to learning about all the bike parts and repair jargon, I’m teaching myself how to completely disassemble and rebuild a bike so I don’t know all the jargon and the terms yet so please excuse my ignorance with much of the terminology as I’m still learning a lot. I don’t really expect to ride the bike probably until next Spring anyways and by that time I’ll be on the way to my weight loss goals of at least 100 pounds. I’m kind of afraid to attempt to try out the bike now in fear I may damage the wheels with my current weight. here are some photos of the bike https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...293737d83.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...48bf807d5.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9083e2f01.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...702f04d82.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0b7ccbf58.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...39725709e.jpeg |
Those are 36 spoke wheels, although an older set, but I would ride it. If a spoke breaks then it's a chance to get acquainted with your local shop. Enjoy the bike and good luck with your weight loss plans.
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+1 to washed-up, 36 spokes is good. Be a careful rider, don’t hit curbs or potholes. 28s aren’t the skinniest, 25s and 23s. Check your inflation every ride, don’t ride on a low tire. 80lb 10 year old can get away with some abuse that you and I can’t.
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28's aren't skinny. Those were considered fat comfort road tire before the gravel bike craze kicked in. Put a new set of tires and tubes on it, clean it up and ride.
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At my heaviest, I was about 245 lbs. I was riding bikes that had tires with widths of 22 and 23 mm, maybe even thinner but I can't be sure since they would have been replaced by now. I still have a bike that runs 22's and 23's. Most of my bikes run 25's right now, I may try 28's to see if they fit.
Your weight isn't really that high, I would pump the tires and ride it. Just remember to pump it up before EVERY ride, that's to prevent any pinch flats. I would adjust the angle on the aerobars such that they are about level and put some pad on the arm rests. That's a nice looking bike, next time turn the bike around so the drive train is visible in the photos. |
Thanks so much for all the replies!! So after hearing all this, I pumped up those tires and took it out for a ride, it needs some adjustments, I need new pedals as I do not like those clip on pedals it has now, or whatever they are called, maybe clipless, but i need pedals as my shoes kept hitting the cranks, the rear derailleur is so gunked up with grease, I have to take it off and really soak and clean it, and the brakes need some adjusting, and it needs a basic tune up, but the tires must be replaced, they are actually get threadbare and I might as well change the tubes as well as they just don't seem to hold the air the way I think they should, but I'm glad I got on the bike and tried it out.
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Take the beast to the bike shop and get her serviced. You could have won the Tour de Franc e on that bike back in the day, great starter bike. Im your weight and I have 2 carbon bikes and an aluminum off roader, no issues
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Originally Posted by banjaboy
(Post 21705716)
Take the beast to the bike shop and get her serviced. You could have won the Tour de Franc e on that bike back in the day, great starter bike. Im your weight and I have 2 carbon bikes and an aluminum off roader, no issues
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You asked this in the other post, I decided to answer it here because your questions were about this Sekai. And I didn't want to hijack the other thread.
Originally Posted by tpadul
(Post 21705549)
Can you show me some photos of how you raised up your handlebars? You had commented on my new 1984 Sekai 5000 racing bike I just picked up I think and I'm struggling with the drop handlebars, I really don't like them and will be switching them out on my other bikes I have but now that I found this vintage 1984 Sekai racing bike I do want to keep the drops on the bike but until I fully lose at least 100 pounds I want to do something to make riding this racing bike more comfortable for me, I saw some photos on this site somewhere where someone had some kind of handlebar extensions placed of the top of the drop bars but I don't know what they are called. The Sekai came with Aerobars clipped on but those don't help as you are really bending down with the Aero bars and I want to find something that I can temporarily put onto the top of the drop bars that will allow me to sit in a more upright position until I am at a much more healthy weight. Any suggestions with photos would be most appreciative. I don't know what the extensions are called that I saw in some photo but they were clipped/bolted onto the top of the drop handlebar. Do you know what these are? I just wish the quill stems were longer so I could raise that up a bit higher, and I have seem quill stem extenders for mountain bikes but I don't know if that would even work on the Cinelli quill stem that is on my Sekai.
If the handlebars are not high enough, you have a few options, 1) there is a stem by Nitto that is extra long Nitto stem, this is about $50, or 2) you can use a quill stem adapter, this will make your steerer threadless compatible so you can use a standard threadless stem (dimension quill stem adapter), now you can use a lot of different threadless stems, I like the dimension because it is longer than other stem adapters. This stem adapter should work in place of the Cinelli stem. I use the threadless adapter on a old Waterford bike, I like the threadless adapter because I can uses stems that have a faceplate which makes it easier to change stems or handlebars. The aerobars appear to be some version of the profile design airstrykes, just loosen a couple of bolts on the clamps to the handlebars and rotate the aerobars until the bottom of the bars is level with the ground, you can play with it from there. The arm rests for the aerobars don't appear to have pads, you can get replacements from profile design, you can figure out which pads will work best for your arm rests. I hope this answers your questions. Oh, I never would call your or any of my bikes a racing bike, I call this style road bikes, that's because there are road racing bikes, mountain racing bikes, cyclecross racing bike, bmx racing bikes, etc... |
Originally Posted by cyclist2000
(Post 21706474)
You asked this in the other post, I decided to answer it here because your questions were about this Sekai. And I didn't want to hijack the other thread.
You have a quill stem with a threaded fork on the Sekai (this is the older style). When I said not to have them cut the steer tube, this was intended for a threadless fork. Apples and oranges. (I think you know the following, but I typed it out already and decided not to delete it) If you want to raise the handlebars on the Sekai, you need to loosen the bolt at the top of the quill stem (only a few turns, don't unscrew the entire bolt), either it will drop down or you will need to tap it LIGHTLY with a hammer. Then the bolt will drop down and the stem should be loose. You can raise it to the minimum insertion mark. Screw the bolt until slighly snug, align the stem with the front wheel, then tighten the bolt. If the handlebars are not high enough, you have a few options, 1) there is a stem by Nitto that is extra long Nitto stem, this is about $50, or 2) you can use a quill stem adapter, this will make your steerer threadless compatible so you can use a standard threadless stem (dimension quill stem adapter), now you can use a lot of different threadless stems, I like the dimension because it is longer than other stem adapters. This stem adapter should work in place of the Cinelli stem. I use the threadless adapter on a old Waterford bike, I like the threadless adapter because I can uses stems that have a faceplate which makes it easier to change stems or handlebars. The aerobars appear to be some version of the profile design airstrykes, just loosen a couple of bolts on the clamps to the handlebars and rotate the aerobars until the bottom of the bars is level with the ground, you can play with it from there. The arm rests for the aerobars don't appear to have pads, you can get replacements from profile design, you can figure out which pads will work best for your arm rests. I hope this answers your questions. Oh, I never would call your or any of my bikes a racing bike, I call this style road bikes, that's because there are road racing bikes, mountain racing bikes, cyclecross racing bike, bmx racing bikes, etc... Unfortunately my Quill stem is already at the minimum insertion and it's still too low down for me. So I have to look into the Quill stem adapter or a new Quill stem. Perhaps after my Bariatric surgery and I am down to an ideal weight then perhaps I might be comfortable riding in the position with the drop bars down a bit lower. It will take me a while to build up endurance for that as aside from the extra weight I have right now I also have a form of Exercise induced Asthma so the extra weight doesn't help that problem at the moment. I will look into the other options that you have given me and I really appreciate the help :) |
Originally Posted by cyclist2000
(Post 21706474)
You asked this in the other post, I decided to answer it here because your questions were about this Sekai. And I didn't want to hijack the other thread.
You have a quill stem with a threaded fork on the Sekai (this is the older style). When I said not to have them cut the steer tube, this was intended for a threadless fork. Apples and oranges. (I think you know the following, but I typed it out already and decided not to delete it) If you want to raise the handlebars on the Sekai, you need to loosen the bolt at the top of the quill stem (only a few turns, don't unscrew the entire bolt), either it will drop down or you will need to tap it LIGHTLY with a hammer. Then the bolt will drop down and the stem should be loose. You can raise it to the minimum insertion mark. Screw the bolt until slighly snug, align the stem with the front wheel, then tighten the bolt. If the handlebars are not high enough, you have a few options, 1) there is a stem by Nitto that is extra long Nitto stem, this is about $50, or 2) you can use a quill stem adapter, this will make your steerer threadless compatible so you can use a standard threadless stem (dimension quill stem adapter), now you can use a lot of different threadless stems, I like the dimension because it is longer than other stem adapters. This stem adapter should work in place of the Cinelli stem. I use the threadless adapter on a old Waterford bike, I like the threadless adapter because I can uses stems that have a faceplate which makes it easier to change stems or handlebars. The aerobars appear to be some version of the profile design airstrykes, just loosen a couple of bolts on the clamps to the handlebars and rotate the aerobars until the bottom of the bars is level with the ground, you can play with it from there. The arm rests for the aerobars don't appear to have pads, you can get replacements from profile design, you can figure out which pads will work best for your arm rests. I hope this answers your questions. Oh, I never would call your or any of my bikes a racing bike, I call this style road bikes, that's because there are road racing bikes, mountain racing bikes, cyclecross racing bike, bmx racing bikes, etc... |
Originally Posted by tpadul
(Post 21707118)
Would you be able to share some photos of your bike that has the Dimension stem adapter? I'd love to see some photos to get a better idea of how it looks and how how you were able to get your handlebars. I was looking at the link you gave me for the Nitto Stem but I have no idea what size I would need as I don't really understand all the metric sizes yet, the smallest one is 60mm and then they have several more and I just don't understand yet how tall any of them are. :( If you have not figured it out yet I'm a total newb to the bike mechanics and I'm trying to teach myself but alas all the metric stuff is also throwing me off too.
Don't buy any stem yet until you ride the bike for a bit and determine how you need to adjust it. Start with handlebars about the same height as the saddle, then do it feel cramped or do the handlebars feel too far away? |
Originally Posted by tpadul
(Post 21707118)
Would you be able to share some photos of your bike that has the Dimension stem adapter? I'd love to see some photos to get a better idea of how it looks and how how you were able to get your handlebars. I was looking at the link you gave me for the Nitto Stem but I have no idea what size I would need as I don't really understand all the metric sizes yet, the smallest one is 60mm and then they have several more and I just don't understand yet how tall any of them are. :( If you have not figured it out yet I'm a total newb to the bike mechanics and I'm trying to teach myself but alas all the metric stuff is also throwing me off too.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c2c4b750f5.jpg This is a Dimension Stem adapter. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d0cc323921.jpg This is the bike with the Dimension Stem adapter |
Thank you!!!!
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Isn't your Schwinn a road bike?
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Originally Posted by cyclist2000
(Post 21707371)
Isn't your Schwinn a road bike?
I am not a fan of the drop handlebars mostly because my back hurts from that position but for this Sekai I picked up it is the top of the line 5000 racing series and I don't really want to alter it much by putting upright bars on it, but I need to get the handlebars higher so I don't have to bend over so much when riding it. |
Do you have any idea of how old the tyres are? They look a bit cracked in the last photo and they generally only last about 10 years before deteriorating. It may be worth replacing them if you're not sure as they aren't that expensive.
Weight wise they should be fine (28mm is wide for a road bike) but you may need to run them at a higher pressure (within the limits). There are plenty of online tyre pressure calculators. I can't share links yet but the first one I found on good thinks that you should be running at 104psi (250lb is 113kg). |
Originally Posted by Herzlos
(Post 21710107)
Do you have any idea of how old the tyres are? They look a bit cracked in the last photo and they generally only last about 10 years before deteriorating. It may be worth replacing them if you're not sure as they aren't that expensive.
Weight wise they should be fine (28mm is wide for a road bike) but you may need to run them at a higher pressure (within the limits). There are plenty of online tyre pressure calculators. I can't share links yet but the first one I found on good thinks that you should be running at 104psi (250lb is 113kg). https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1eb64e4bc7.png These are the tires I just bought |
Originally Posted by cyclist2000
(Post 21706474)
You asked this in the other post, I decided to answer it here because your questions were about this Sekai. And I didn't want to hijack the other thread.
You have a quill stem with a threaded fork on the Sekai (this is the older style). When I said not to have them cut the steer tube, this was intended for a threadless fork. Apples and oranges. (I think you know the following, but I typed it out already and decided not to delete it) If you want to raise the handlebars on the Sekai, you need to loosen the bolt at the top of the quill stem (only a few turns, don't unscrew the entire bolt), either it will drop down or you will need to tap it LIGHTLY with a hammer. Then the bolt will drop down and the stem should be loose. You can raise it to the minimum insertion mark. Screw the bolt until slighly snug, align the stem with the front wheel, then tighten the bolt. If the handlebars are not high enough, you have a few options, 1) there is a stem by Nitto that is extra long Nitto stem, this is about $50, or 2) you can use a quill stem adapter, this will make your steerer threadless compatible so you can use a standard threadless stem (dimension quill stem adapter), now you can use a lot of different threadless stems, I like the dimension because it is longer than other stem adapters. This stem adapter should work in place of the Cinelli stem. I use the threadless adapter on a old Waterford bike, I like the threadless adapter because I can uses stems that have a faceplate which makes it easier to change stems or handlebars. The aerobars appear to be some version of the profile design airstrykes, just loosen a couple of bolts on the clamps to the handlebars and rotate the aerobars until the bottom of the bars is level with the ground, you can play with it from there. The arm rests for the aerobars don't appear to have pads, you can get replacements from profile design, you can figure out which pads will work best for your arm rests. I hope this answers your questions. Oh, I never would call your or any of my bikes a racing bike, I call this style road bikes, that's because there are road racing bikes, mountain racing bikes, cyclecross racing bike, bmx racing bikes, etc... |
Ride it! That bike would your weight easily
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Originally Posted by tpadul
(Post 21707409)
I am not a fan of the drop handlebars mostly because my back hurts from that position but for this Sekai I picked up it is the top of the line 5000 racing series and I don't really want to alter it much by putting upright bars on it, but I need to get the handlebars higher so I don't have to bend over so much when riding it. https://www.rivbike.com/collections/...to-tallux-stem |
Originally Posted by c_m_shooter
(Post 21717088)
Get a Nitto Dirt Drop stem from Rivendell and you will be good to go. I just looked and the dirt drop is out of stock, but they have this one.
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/...to-tallux-stem |
You kind of need to know where you want be compared to what is on there now. The reach is measured from the center of the quill to center of the bars. For diameter, I would order the 26mm and a 25.4-26mm shim just to be safe either way if I didn't have a way to measure. The bars on your bike have a very long reach (and look to be set up kind of funky), so that is a consideration on the length. Most people want to be leaned forward about 45 degrees when seated with hands on the hoods. Remember that as you raise the stem it will also shorten the effective reach of the cockpit a little bit. I have been riding long enough that I know what length I am going to need from the back of the saddle to my controls (drop bar or flat bar makes no difference), that makes setting up a new bike pretty straight forward.
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Originally Posted by c_m_shooter
(Post 21717147)
You kind of need to know where you want be compared to what is on there now. The reach is measured from the center of the quill to center of the bars. For diameter, I would order the 26mm and a 25.4-26mm shim just to be safe either way if I didn't have a way to measure. The bars on your bike have a very long reach (and look to be set up kind of funky), so that is a consideration on the length. Most people want to be leaned forward about 45 degrees when seated with hands on the hoods. Remember that as you raise the stem it will also shorten the effective reach of the cockpit a little bit. I have been riding long enough that I know what length I am going to need from the back of the saddle to my controls (drop bar or flat bar makes no difference), that makes setting up a new bike pretty straight forward.
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Nice bike. Tange Champion #1 tubing is similar to Columbus SL maybe a little lighter. It's good stuff and was used on higher end Japanese bikes of the time. It should ride really well.
If you're worried about the wheels at all I would have your LBS check the spoke tension of both wheels and get them in spec. There's a kind of goldielocks tension that really needs to be measured to get right for the combination of hubs, rims, and spokes. Not to tight, not to loose. Once the spokes are within spec it's really surprising how strong a bicycle wheel is, and how much weight it can handle. Still not a good idea to be jumping curbs or plowing through deep potholes because these wheels are not made for impact. When you recover from surgery it might be good to get a bike fit. It can help reduce the chance of injury and make you more comfortable on the bike. Comfort is a good way to keep you on the bike which, I think, is really the overall goal. I wouldn't spend the money on a fit now because everything is likely to change after the surgery. So you might want to wait a bit before fiddling too much with a stem and other fit related parts. Things will most likely change again as you loose weight and get used to being on the bike, but by then the small changes to fit will, probably, not need new parts. Although there's always upgrades... Happy riding! |
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