Just picked up a Trek 930, help me update please
 

So I've been looking for a 90s MTB for cruising around base to the gym and that kind of stuff. Picked up a 96' (I believe) Trek Single Track 930 yesterday.
Some of the stuff seems worn, and I'd like to get it up to speed.
Pics:
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g5...5/IMG_0631.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g5...5/IMG_0632.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g5...5/IMG_0633.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g5...5/IMG_0634.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g5...5/IMG_0635.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g5...5/IMG_0636.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g5...5/IMG_0637.jpg


I think it had the fork replaced with the current Rock Shox one. In any case, it feels spongy and probably needs replaced. Plus I'd like one a white one with the lockable feature.
I found two that I'd like and seemed cheap enough.
1st - http://www.amazon.com/RockShox-Dart-...6096338&sr=1-7
2nd - http://www.ebay.com/itm/SR-SUNTOUR-X...#ht_2949wt_986
Do newer forks mount to older frames, or am I out of luck?

Next is the pedals. Looking to replace the current clip less with just the standard plastic MTB pedals. Nothing crazy, just want a white pair.
Something like these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WELLGO-WR-1-...8#ht_648wt_922
http://www.amazon.com/Eastern-Bikes-...6096634&sr=8-2
Would these work? I just want a pedal that will hold my shoe good to avoid cracking my shin.

I'd like to get different shifters, ones with the levers instead of the twist ones, and maybe a newer crank, but I have no idea where to even look stuff like that, that would work with this bike.

Also, if you guys could think of anything that would help the bike work better, let me know.

:beer::beer:

Bueller?

1. Is it a 7 or 8speed cassette / fw?
2. Why not try a metal DMR V8 pedal? It will outlast a crappy plastic pedal 10x? http://www.amazon.com/DMR-V8-Pure-Wh...6464676&sr=1-1
3. The RS Dart over the SR Suntour any day. If you can possibly swing it...try finding a good used or OEM Rockshox Tora. So much more useable.

Am I the only person who doesn't like V8s? I agree that they're a million times better than those crappy plastic ones that you posted (and that some BMXers seem to like for some reason), but I just don't stick to them as well as some other pedals I've tried. I guess inexpensive and white kind of limits it though.

Will the next shocks just go right in? Guy at LBS said the tubes are going to be different, and won't work.

If those grip, then I'm game. I made the mistake once of throwing down $50-70 bucks on some non clip less pedals before and they were garbage. Foot popped off every chance it got on the trail. Guess they can't be as bad as these current metal ones, foot can't seem to stay put on them.

Personally I'd take the 30mm stanchions on the XCR over the Dart's 28mm, but that's just me.

Kona JackSh**s are nice for the price.

Another option is the Kore Race. They're butt-ugly and not white, but are surprisingly sticky for being cheap.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=62319

Ed it's hard to tell by the pictures on Google...do the Kona Jacksh**ts have replaceable/adjustable pins? I saw the Primos did but they were $50 vs $20 for the regulars. I'm looking to replace my SPDs with some nice sticky platforms with pins I can screw in a little for urban fun when I want to be able to slip my feet of a little easier. Would the Konas or Kores be strong enough for urban freeride?

/threadjack

They don't have to be white. But I'd like either white or red. Might just go with the V8s. Wouldn't be against going with a more expensive one as long as the grip is awesome.

Would this crank work on my bike? 3 gears left side, 8 right.
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...0052_523632_-1

Also, anyone ever switch a new fork into an older bike? Still not sure if the tubes are the same, or if they'll require some work.

-Thanks

A new fork with a 1 1/8" steerer will work just fine with that bike. Only tube work required will be chopping the steerer. Don't chop it all the way down though. I like to leave a couple centimeters of spacers on there.

I'm guessing Acera crank won't work cuz it's Octomom and I bet your BB is square taper. I wouldn't bother with crank swap at the moment personally, that Acera's a downgrade. Your mid ring is on its way out, but it's not totally wasted so just be a man and stay in the big ring all the time. Then swap cranks when you've chewed up the big ring as much as that mid ring. I'm only half joking there, I really would keep rolling that crank and just try to stay out of the mid.

Probably easiest to get a new BB and crank at the same time.

Not the only one, I'm not a fan of the profile of the DMR V8/V12's, though I would like to try a set of the vaults.
Another option are these:
http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/115...ium-Pedals.htm

I don't believe either the XCR or the Dart 1 have lockout like you said you are wanting. I believe the Dart 1 can have it, but you have to get a kit and install it yourself. I don't know much about the XCR so it might have it, but that is usually something a low end fork would brag about and I couldn't find it on suntours site (http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/dst...CR/SF-XCR.html) anywhere. I just bought a Dart 3 off ebay for this exact reason. Nice find though, I really like the way it looks, definitely need to get rid of the twist shifters.

Edit: also, that Suntour that you linked on ebay clames it has a 28.6mm steer tube which is 1 1/8" and the same as the Dart 1. I would talk to your LBS mechanic about this again. And I did see that the one that you linked on ebay did have lockout.

Yea, I only stay on the big ring (mainly using this bike as a commuter). Then on 5-7 on the right. Just seems like it doesn't have the power of other bikes I've street cruised. My roommates old turd trek 3 series, I could of sworn that I would of been flying at that gear, but this one seems like you have to put all your energy just to go forward. Maybe a good lube would help, who knows.

So, as long as the fork is 1 1/8" steerer it'll work? Bike shop was talking something about threaded or thread less, and something about tube. Guy really didn't want to help me, just wanted to sell me a new bike. Guess that's his job though, so can't blame him.

Threadless, for sure. Luckily there are probably only about 3 threaded 1 1/8 forks left on the planet so the chances of you accidentally getting one are quite slim.

I can't imagine what tube talk he was dishing out besides having to cut the steerer tube to length. Then you're gonna have to get the crown race onto it, maybe he was talking about that?

Maybe he was going on about tapered headtubes? Who knows?

Is there a way to measure the bike so I can tell what size frame it is? Not sure if it's 16.5" or 18".

Measure the seat tube. The problem is some companies go center to center (center of bottom bracket to center of top tube), others go center to top (center of bottom bracket to top of top tube).

For a '96 Trek it should be center of BB to top of seat tube (seatpost collar).

I think C-C was more common back when top tubes were typically level - that measurement doesn't make much sense with sloped top tubes, and it seems most modern MTBs are done C-T.

You can fix it up. Does the guy at the shop think it's a 1" threadless steerer tube/headset? That would be the only reason I can see for him to be confused. Or he just doesn't want to help, or wants to sell you a new bike. But fix this one! I learned all I know about wrenching because I had to fix up bikes if I wanted to ride. (They were all much crappier and less worth it than yours.) Or put a rigid fork on it. Kona P2 or such like.

Went ahead and got some V8's. Figured they'd be better then the plastics. Ended up going with red, figured white would get dirty too fast after looking at my white pedals on my road bike.
Still have to get out there and measure the frame, b/c after some research I found a site that said this year trek only came in 16.5 or 18" frames. I'm pretty sure it's not 18 as it feels kinda small for me, so I'm thinking I have the small frame, and in that case I'm not gonna do much to it b/c I'll be looking at switching to one more my size.

So from the center of the bb to the top of top tube. That's where the seat tube and top tube meet? Should I measure that extra inch or so that extends past the top tube ( where the seat inserts), or is that not counted?

If it's C-C (and I don't believe it is) it would be center of BB to the CENTER of the top tube. I do believe it's to the TOP of the seat tube though.
I'd measure it both ways and see if one of the numbers matches up with one of the specs.

The 1995 Trek catalog has a diagram showing the size measured from BB to ETT !!! Egads!!!

I'm pretty sure scy is right for that era trek was measuring to top of seatclamp, though.

Top of seat tube being where the seat tube and top tube intersect, Or top of seat tube being at the end of the extra inch or two past the intersection?

In my first pic you can see how the seat tube goes an inch or so past the top tube and I'm not sure where exactly the "top" is considered.