New Rear derailleur for Dahon Stowaway V
 

Hello!

I have Dahon Getaway V (late 80s) with Shimano Tourney. I would like to replace this derailleur with something newer:)
Any ideas?
Attachment 572877

Attachment 572878

It's got to be a claw rear derailleur, as that's the type you're replacing.

Something like this Shimano Tourney TZ50 would probably work:

https://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...lleur-w-hanger

There are not many derailleurs made that have the hanger built in. Generally only the entry level models.

$8.84... that's literally cheaper than dirt.

https://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server2...0.1280.jpg?c=2

Niagara actually had cheaper claw derailleurs available, but from SunRace and Falcon. I think the Shimano is probably a better bet here.

it will probably work just fine.

when i see these old dahon space frame bikes i just want to strip them and rebuild with modern components.

Thanks for replies!

Which derailleur with hanger built in should I choose? Can I choose derailleur without built in hanger?

And what shifter will be good for it?

You used to be able to buy just the claw part of the derailleur so that you can fit a good quality bolt on derailleur..I am sure looking at a few websites would track one down..Try SJSCycles, SPA cycles, Practical Cycles..all in the UK..Perhaps ThorUSA can help ?

http://practicalcycles.com/products/...nger-boss.aspx

The one on the bike is short cage and pointing forwards. The suggested RD is medium or long cage and there are no indication it is going to point forwards when in use. You could end up with a der that is touching the ground..

Ok, can you give an example of the RD with short cage and pointing forwards?

Being spring loaded, the derailleurs position is determined by the take up in the chain. In the first photo, the combination is the large chainring with the rear largest cog. So of course the derailleur will be in the forward position. This is also determined by the adjustment of the length of the chain given the cog/crank combinations and length of chainstay i.e. distance from crank spindle to rear axle length.

Generally it would be true to say you need a short cage derailleur with 16 inch wheels..If you have a long one it is more likely to catch the floor..

Ah, good point about needing a short cage, badmother & tudorowen1. Here's one from Niagara that might work:

https://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...6-7s-w-brkt-bk

These look a low quality rear derailleur..I gave you one solution..Here is another..Go to SJScycles website and order one of these..
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-spa...anger-bracket/
They have 2 other alternatives..
SJScycles will ship worldwide really quickly..They are a first class bicycle supply company..amongst the best in the world..This component will just cost a few dollars..and then you can go to your local bike shop and choose any good quality short cage derailleur you want.It will simply bolt onto this component..
The chances are if you go to a decent local bike shop they will have this type of thing in stock anyway..
Once you have this shimano gear hanger you can fit any one of a hundred rear derailleurs on the market..It's a NO Brainer!

What about converting it to IGH? I had a bike like this and it was a 3 speed SA. It would be possible to get hold of a SA 5 speed too. I have one on my brompton and like it a lot.

Dahon Classic III 1988 folding bicycle Bootiebike

Anybody out there have the link to that Asian site with all the old Dahons?

Ok guys, thanks for replies! Can you give an example of the good quality RD with short cage?

It's a good idea, but are the frame and wheel suitable for this? and what about brakes? I have rear drum brakes. Are the frames of the dahon III and V similar? Is there any instrucrion of the instulling IGH to the Dahon V?

Well, here's the thing. Good quality and claw rear derailleur don't always go together.

So you really have a couple options. Either get a claw adapter and run any kind of short cage rear derailleur you want as tudorowen1 suggested, or just get a short cage claw rear derailleur of any sort and call it a day.

Just curious, why are you replacing the rear derailleur? Is it not working correctly or damaged? There might be a simple fix (adjust cable tension, new derailleur cable and housing, for ex.) that would allow you to keep your present rear derailleur with a minimum of fuss.

The rear derailleur is generally ok, but it does not switch clearly, although I adjusted it up. I think the point is in the shifter that is not index.

You have a 5 speed rear cluster, correct? I don't believe there was an indexed / click-shifting 5 speed around then, but fairly certain you can get an indexed 5-speed twist shifter now.

Here's a way to check whether the problem is in the shifter or somewhere else. Use the shifter to put the chain on the smallest rear sprocket. If there is a run of exposed shift cable (not within housing) anywhere from the shifter to the rear derailleur, grab a handful of exposed shift cable and pull it away from the frame tubing, thereby mimicking shifting action by pulling sideways on the exposed cable. You should be able to "shift" into each gear by changing the distance you pull the cable away from the frame.

If you can shift into each gear this way but not with the shifter, then the problem is in the shifter. If you can't shift into each gear this way, the problem is something else.

My first thought is that if it's not the shifter, it's a worn / slack chain. There is a simple tool (Park Tool Chain Checker) which measures chain slack. A bike shop should have one if you don't. If your chain is worn, it'll never shift cleanly. If your bike has a few thousand miles versus a few hundred, the chain will most likely be worn and slack.

Reason I mention all this - I'd hate to see you replace parts that don't necessarily need replacing, and not replace parts (worn chain, for ex.) that definitely need replacing.

Yes, I have 5 speed cluster with non-indexed shifter.
Generally, the shifting is not bad but not as smooth as I want it to be. And I would like to have click-shifting. Thats why I want to replase RD and shifter. But I don't think that new cheep entry level models will be better than my old one.

First thing is to measure the distance between the dropouts in the rear fork, that is the space available for a different hub.

It is a steel bike so you can adjust it but since the chainstays are short a cold setting is not going to give you a lot of adjustment.

Then look at hubs. Do you have a hub (IGH) or do you want to buy one. New or used?

To see what is available I`d go to the SA site: https://issuu.com/francescoscomazzon...gue-2016-2017_

Even if you want to buy a second hand hub it is a good place to see what is actually available.

some of us grew up with coaster brakes so if you can use that and there is space in the frame problem solved.

Therer are some hubs with roller brakes and such but I am not sure if there is space in your frame.

We need a picture of your frame where a caliper brake would normally go to know if it is possible to install caliper brakes.

You need a hub with a spoke count that`l match the rim you have- or one you buy. Your curent rim may not agree with rim braking.

Depending on where you live it may be possible to buy a complete wheel.

https://no.search.yahoo.com/search?f...verting+to+IGH


Edit: If you scroll down there is a red bike laying on its side with a caliper brake atatched to the chainstay bridge.

Since you're dealing with a Chinese made product from the 80's or early 90's, you might try current Chinese products:

https://www.aliexpress.com/category/...58,2-201487410

I have an original Dahon with the Sturmey-Archer 3-speed, and I prefer it. Some of the other suppliers offer complete wheels, like Litepro.

Plenty pictures here. 10 speed (5 gear IGH x 2) and 8 speed IGH.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/number...57606937764955

My Dahon V is also original and was made in Taiwan (like your original Dahon with the Sturmey-Archer 3-speed) :)