Restoration or modern Nishiki build
 

Hi everyone

So I am in need of some advice. I got this Nishiki bike from my dad who had it sitting on the attic for a while. I believe it to be a Nishiki ONP from 1984 according to my dad, but am not entirely sure regarding the year. The thing is, I believe it was altered throughout the years since many of the parts don't really belong together. It also looks like it was re-painted at a point in time because there is a decal from the company who painted it.
The frame did not come with the wheels, but I do have the hubs. Here is a list of the components:

Hubs: Normandy Maillard 36 Hole
Crankset: Shimano 600 AX 53/45
Pedal: Shimano 600 AX
Casette: Dont know the model but its a 6-speed 20/13
Brakes: Dont know. I cant decipher the remaining decal.
Rear derailleur: Suntour Cyclone MK2
Front derailleur: Suntour Cyclone MK2
Downtube shifters: Suntour, but don't know the model
Handlebar: Kusuki Medaillon
Stem: 3ttt
Seat: Conpy
Brake levers: The hoods had CLB written on them but cant tell for sure what model they are.
Unfortunately I cant post any pictures yet.

So my big question is what to do? I would love to ride the bike also being able to tell my dad that I am putting it to good use. Nonetheless, the seatpost is way to low but my dad chopped it at one point so it cant go any higher. Secondly, I live in Switzerland and I doubt that I will be able to use it for my hilly routes unless I make some upgrades to the drivechain. Since I also have to replace the wheels I thought of modernizing the components. I could possibly go with a Shimano 600 Tricolor groupset as I have one lying around. What do you guys think?

Well, it has been repainted, so that throws any thoughts of a pure restoration out the window. Now you're free to do what you want. Sounds like a good mix of parts, I would either: get it running as-is with new cables, grease in all the grease-able places, and see how you like it. If you feel like it would benefit from upgrades, then by all means, throw on that tricolor group you have. Just judging by the component mix on there now, it sounds like a nice bike that would be worth keeping around and/or upgrading. Nine more posts and you can post a pic, which you should.

Well, according to this book I was just looking at, if it's an ONP it's a very good frame. Does the serial start with "NP"?

Post up the serial number. One of the experts can tell you the year. Personally, I would keep it as is and and get it into ride-able condition. Then see where you need to improve on it.

Thanks for the input.
I think thats what my dad would suggest as well. My biggest concern is that I wont actually ride it because the gear ratio will be somewhat limiting. Maybe if a really cheap set of rims pops up then I might just go for it and test it out. I guess I have to be a bit more patient although i would love to take it for a ride before winter comes.

In terms of the frame it has the characteristic "N" under the bottom bracket. The serial number does not start with NP. The bike was purchased in Denmark and I have read on the forum that the danish bikes had a different numbering.
On the seat tube it says J47 vertically and on the bottom bracket its BT 2584 U. According to my dad he purchased it in 1984 which is consistent with the number and could indicate June, 1984. I don't know what the letters refer to.

You could just try lower gearing on it. Maybe a triple on the front? Would be a shame if you don't use it...

The gearing is easy to change. The SunTour Cyclone Mk II can easily handle 24T, and I use one with 26T and a 3-tooth drop up front (45-42/13-15-17-20-23-26).

I believe your crankset has a 130mm BCD, which means it will take a 38T inner ring. Team that with a 46T outer, add a 6-speed freewheel like mine, and you'll have a nice 1.5-step that takes you down below 40 gear-inches, instead of that knee-busting criterion-only ratio set you currently have.

45x20 low?!?
 

I also vote for doing some riding before major changes, but I personally am a mere mortal, so a 45x20 low gear would limit me to pretty flat ground.

Doesn't sound like your part of Switzerland is super flat, either.

I don't know that crankset's bcd, but the lowest cost/risk might be to swap chainring down to a 39, and then potentially cassette. Sheldon's site mentions that doing the 6 to 7 change allows megarange cassettes. I went that route; it did mean a new RD and wolflink. But I got as low as 39x34, a big help from my 42x24. The megarange is effectively a 6-speed 14-24, plus bonus #7 34 bailout.

One of many options, of course, but my investment was low to find out whether I really liked riding the bike.

Stormy85 you can get around the 10 posts thing by posting pictures to gallery and then people can really chime in on what you have. FWIW I just got done putting a compact crank on a late 80s Specialized Allez so I can ride it in my Hilly Neighborhood. My philosophy is that uncomfortable bikes don't get ridden so if it needs lower gears for you to actually ride it then do that. Unless you are Fabian Cancellara you are probably not riding a stock double crank in Switzerland anyway. Enjoy and welcome to the forums.

Changing the chainring sounds like a good idea. At least cost effective for the beginning. I do have a 38 chainring 130mm lying around but it says 9/10/11 speed on it so not sure if it works. Any thoughts?
Regarding the megarange cassette, I am intrigued. The roads in my neighborhood are not exactly flat and gradients up to 20% are, when only intermittent, a reality. On my other bike my lowest gear is 39/32 which is already quite tough.
Quickly looking on google, I see there are also 6-Speed Freewheel Megarange options. Cant I use these?

If it has been repainted, the collectibility has suffered to some extent. You can keep aspects of the bike that reflect the era, such as non-aero brake levers, downtube shifters, vintage handlebars, stem, seatpost, and a vintage style saddle.

As far as drivetrain, if you really want to do significant riding, and not just an occasional spin, put on whatever you need. If you have to spread the dropouts to 130mm then do it, use a wide range cassette, and a triple make is useable. Otherwise leave it as is and hang it in the garage.

Unless it is a seminal example, I have never understood restoring something to to point that it is. I longer functional for its owner. Nothing is cooler than riding your Dad’s bike.

John

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3fc85448af.jpg


The rest.

Stormy85 , sounds like you have a nice bike with very good components. I would overhaul the original components, i.e., headset, bottom bracket, derailleurs and brakes.
As previously mentioned, the crank more than likely has a 130 bcd, so getting lower tooth count chainrings will get you lower gearing for the hills.

Spend your money on the wheels.

I'm not sure about the Maillard hubs, but it may be hard to find cogs if it is a freehub. If it takes a freewheel, then I would build on them. Get rims and tires that suit the type of riding you will be doing.

........also, since the seatpost is too short, get a black one to match the stem and crank, maybe black rims as well....:thumb:

It looks like a pretty cool race bike and the paint looks well done. . If you already have a bike for your "hilly routes" build this one initially as your dad had it but to fit you. You might need a longer stem as well as a seat post--matchy matchy Nitto Nitto. I'm going to guess that the french hubs are not original. In your local used marketplace, find some decent 600, Dura Ace, or Record hubs laced to whatever rims. Go from there. Easy gears is a slippery slope and I'm afraid of falling and hurting myself. 13-20 sounds pretty cool.

Upon further thoughts I think I will mount up the 600 Groupset I have laying around and see how it rides. For the time being I will refurbish all components and put them aside. Perhaps in time I will source the missing pieces but I really want to try it out before it gets too cold. And yes the black rims do feel tempting :)

For now the frame has been cleaned and degreased. Tmrw i will polish the chrome parts. I have to say, the paint looks really good for its age. Will post pictures once I have it assembled.

I wanted to upload the final result as promised. I ended up swapping over the 600 group. I had to cold set the frame but in retrospect it does ride fantastic and actually is very decent.
I wanted to keep it somewhat old school so kept the old quill stem and the old, but surprisingly comfortable saddle. I managed to source one Mavic Open SUP CD rim but the second hasnt crossed my way yet. Until now i have been riding my DT Swiss training wheels but i actually like the look even though they are more modern then the rest. The most modern addition is probably the brifters but I am a sucker for a clean cockpit.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...12948af95.jpeg

That looks fantastic. Good clean lines and simple- white frame black cockpit and post.


What shifters did you use with the 600 derailleurs? Under the bar Shimano STIs wouldnt work with old 600 derailleurs, at least for sure the front, due to cable pull.

I am using Claris R2000 due to 8-Speed compatibility. Works great. No issues there.

Hello Stormy85,

the serial number is a Danish VIN. BT = Taarnby A/s the distributor of Nishiki at the time. The U at the end is for the year, 1981.

I have seen one other Nishiki with a Danish VIN and an "N" cutout, it was the Olympic model.

The Nishiki Olympic model in Denmark is very different from the Olympic models in the USA and Canada.

Edit: After more research your Nishiki does not have the correct dropouts for the Nishiki ONP.

Your Nishiki closely matches the Olympic and Olympic Ace models found in Europe in the late 1970s and early 1980s.

A very nice frame indeed.