I REALLY want to try the Reynolds new blue pads. Everything I have heard has been phenomenal. @ tetonrider perhaps I should also try the zipp pads as well.

My only experience as of now with carbon tubulars has been with swissstop yellow(running zipp FC). So I think I will try Reynolds blue pads or tangenite(sp)

thanks

Tangente (Zipp)

remind me....firecrest rims? if so, i'd stick with zipp. i'd at least ask whoever makes your rims what the approved pads are.

hard pads on a soft(er) rim might brake great....for a while.

I ran the Reynolds on Zipp 404's and Psimets, no issues and good performance. With all new wheels, I just want to try something different.

No experience with carbon fiber FD adapter clamps. Been using the K-Edge adapter clamp for a few years and it works very well. Seems to distribute clamping forces on the seat tube more evenly than other aluminum adapters that I've used, including Campagnolo.

you're smart about things. there are lots of folks, perhaps none on here, who think that every carbon pad will work with every carbon rim. some will perform very poorly or prematurely degrade the brake track.

it's a good idea for most folks to check what the manufacturers recommend. most will offer several options from different manufacturers. some just flat-out don't work.

a zipp pad will get eaten by an H3 rim, for instance. there are some hard pads that will prematurely wear down a rim with a softer (zipp) surface.

h3 easier to control in crosswind or worse than a 90mm deep-section?

In the front or the rear? If the front, I say yes to the H3.

Thanks is for the vote of confidence Teton.

yeah, front. rode my tt bike today because I should ride it before Sunday... 90mm wheel in gusty winds was just enough to ruin any confidence I had in the bike staying beneath me.

there's a reputation that it is harder, particularly vs the newest gen of deep fronts like the 808FC. however, i think most people just repeat what they've heard.

i think the h3 is sometimes more affected by wind but in a predictable way.

i've ridden 808s & h3 on the front pretty extensively. the 808 has a more dramatic stall point. what it means is that when effective wind changes (e.g. you change direction in a fast descent....or a truck passes you) it has the potential to get squirrelly. the h3 has a less pronounced stall point, so even in swirling winds/changing speeds/cars passing, there's no weird "oh $hit!" moment like there can be with an 808.

there are some conditions when the 808 is a bit faster, but the h3 is a better guess when someone is (a) fast and (b) doesn't really know the wind.

as you know, the likelihood of getting totally blown off the road or knocked over is pretty much nil if you just keep pedaling, but that's not much comfort when it happens.

if you were here you could borrow an h3. i like it so much i have a tubular and a clincher. i might sell one, though, just due to duplication.

gonna be selling a 404 (clincher) rear, 202 tubular pair, possibly a zipp super9 (tubular) and 808 rear (tubular).

so I need one of those then...

also, many 10s DA/ulty cassettes will be for sale.

you don't need it. some folks disagree with me and are super fast. tony martin doesn't ride one.

the RZR 90 tests pretty damn fast at low yaw in a tunnel.

lots depends on local conditions and riding style....local roads. tire selection also plays a big role.

it's not clear-cut, but the h3 is a good go-to wheel.

if you believe in the wide-is-better thing, the gt3 is going to be released in a clincher version.

sell me the front clincher. I actually ebayed an h3 long ago, but when it arrived it was unridable-out-of-true so the guy refunded me.

might was a key word in my post. i probably won't sell those, just because i think they're timeless wheel sets and they're perfect (in terms of hed's true & round #s ). most of what people sell for cheap is the B-stock. hell, hed even has an ebay presence that sells the b-stock under a different name.

Ah needs me summa dose. 11-23?

might have what you need. may need a few days to sort things out. just did a whole bunch of listings in the last 24h and sold quite a bit ... mostly 7970-series di2 (only listed 2 cassettes, no 11-23s, though). that stuff has some good value.

got some wheels to sell and will probably prioritize those. i have a really hard time parting with wheels, though.

If you miss out on Tetons stuff I also will have a pile of 10 speed stuff for sale. I have 7-8 DA and 3-4 Ultegra cassettes. My Di2 stuff will go later as a group.

How many miles on them? I could probably use a new cassette (or 2)

10s DA... what gears?

I have every combination of 11t and several multiples. I need to go through them all first to assess condition. That will give Teton first shot at selling his.

I'm a day late, but having ridden an H3 in pretty well every condition, and two years worth of outdoor mass-start track stuff (wind & pack dynamics), it is a fine default wheel.

I've sold mine off as part of my general racing kit sell-off, but if I get back to business as some point, I'll likely be buying another one.
I'd rather have it than a 90mm deep wheel-

ONE CAVEAT- many SRs & TTs around here are going to "mass-start-legal" TT rules for kit, forcing racers to use the same wheels for the TT as for the next mass-start race. Since I'm not likely to use my H3 for a crit, I can't use it in the TT. This may or may not be the case in your racing scene, but it certainly is here- and is sort of a bummer as I'd have to acquire a different front wheel. YMMV

not a worry for me.

I found a clincher h3 to use this weekend, and to buy if I like it. picking up tonight. will report back on Sunday.

My coach told me she wanted me to get some no-s**t racing tires instead of the Pro4 Endurance I've been racing on. Since I work at a Specialized shop, I ordered a pair of these. I'm not sure I'll notice a difference other than increased wear, but I'll have cool tires.