chain wear, SS/FG vs. geared
 

Hi all,

On my geared bikes (9 and 10 speed), I change chains once the .75 indicator fits into the chain. Here's the tool I use:

Park Tool Co. » CC-3.2 : Chain Wear Indicator : Chain

I know there's quite a bit of discussion about the accuracy of this tool, but I notice that around the time I hit .75, my shifting starts to deteriorate anyway, so I don't feel like I'm replacing chains all that prematurely when I rely on the Park tool. I usually end up changing chains about every 8-12 months.

What about on a fixed gear bike? Do you replace at .75 mark as well? I just reached that point today on my FG bike. If it matters, I've been using the stock Yaban chain on a Wabi Classic for about 7 months.

Thanks,

Jim

Most peeps here won't even know what you're talking about, but FWIW I use that tool and replace all my chains geared or SSFG when the .75 side of the Park tool fits in the chain. Past that point I generally feel roughness and grinding in my drivetrains.

Thanks for your input. I am starting to feel more play when pedaling FG even though I haven't moved the wheel in the dropouts to slacken the chain. I have an unopened KMC 8.93 in the parts bin and was thinking of using that to replace the stock Yaban. Any thoughts on using 8-speed chains vs designated singlespeed 3/32" chains?

I have yet to replace a chain.

8-speed chains ARE 3/32" chains. Either will work just fine.

How many miles did you ride? My Wabi Special turned 3000 miles last week; I'm still running the orig. drivetrain. I lube/clean the chain every 250 miles. I use Pro-Gold and adjust the tension when it needs it (about every 3 or 4 lube cycles). I'll replace the chain ring, chain and cog together when the time comes. Good quality drivetrain parts, with consistent cleaning and lubing will last a long time. I look at the chainring tooth profile as a wear indicator, and good old seat of the pants feel--you can tell through the pedals if the drivetrain is running smoothly. Personally, I expect my Wabi to run at least double (6000 miles) before I replace the parts.

If you can tell by the chain ring that your chain is stretched you've waited way too long.

I've probably ridden about 2000 miles. I wipe and lube the chain with ProGold about as often as Onfixiate. I don't know if this would be a factor, but my rides (in Reno) tend to be about an hour of climbing followed by about 20 minutes of descending. I run 46/18 fixed, and when tensioning the chain, I try for 1/4 - 1/2" up-and-down movement in the chain.

I don't see any sharktoothing of the chainring, but I do feel more play (a "clunk") between pedaling forward and backward.

The stock chain on my Wabi Lightning only lasted about 1000 miles before it ran roughly and needed to be changed. If you've gotten 2000 miles out of your stock chain, then more than likely it's time to replace it. Chains are a lot cheaper than chainrings.

u can tell by your rear tire position. recently swapped out a stretched chain for a new. the new chain brought my wheel in a quarter inch.


if you're wearing out your cog, you're using cheap cogs. eai or dura ace only . by no means should a hardened steel cog wear at the same rate as alum rings.

. ..dblpst

In response to this topic.. My bike is relatively new, rode last summer/ fall. I am changing my gearing, starting with the cog. Should I also get a new chain? The chain and chainring have approximately 1500 miles on them.

If your new cog is 1/8 and your chain is 3/32 it wont fit

If you've taken good care of the chain you might be able to get more miles from it

If you want a long lasting FG/SS setup, go 1/8" track chain. 1/8" DuraAce or UA Imports cog and appropriate 1/8*" chainring. It will take you many thousands of miles to get 1/6" stretch in 12" of chain. (5000?) And if you can live with a little roughness, you are probably less than half way to replacement. $35 (cog) + $20 (chain) + $50 (ring) = $105 for a first class drivetrain and 10,000 miles.

There's a reason all kids bikes, 3 speeds, cruisers, etc. use 1/8" chain. For a low powered application to be used in an exposed environment where it will be treated badly, a basic engineering reference book will steer you to 1/8". The bike designers 120 years ago were some of the brightest minds on the planet. They got this one right.

Ben

My experience as well. Richard needs to use a better chain.

If you are using your chainring wear to decide when to change a chain, you are using the wrong item to gauge chain wear. it is cheaper to change a chain often than wait til you have worn the chainring.

Also use a single speed specific chain, the side plates on a geared chain are not flat to assist in changing gears and these tend to flatten out adding to chain stretch. Where a Single speed chain has flat side plates which last longer.
SS/Fixed/bmx
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=445936

Geared
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=445937

Yes, why would replacement interval due to wear (chains do not "stretch" they wear) be any different?
You are going about maintenance properly by using the Park tool and replacing at the .75 mark.
Your Wabi is 3/32", replace w/ a quality chain and your chanring/cog will last a long time & run smoothly.

When my last 3/32 Sedisport is finished I'll likely go w/ something like a KMC Z610 Single Speed HX Chain.

-Bandera

Is there a rule of thumb on how often you can change the chain when it reaches the 0.75 mark and not change the ring and cog as well?

Good quality chainrings & cogs kept clean and well adjusted outlast several if not many chains.
The NR 48T on my FG was Crit raced in the 70's, installed two FG chains ago and looks/feels new(ish).

Clean the drivetrain well after removing the old chain, inspect for wear on the chainring & cog teeth.
Might as well inspect the BB for smoothness, the chainring bolts for looseness and the rear hub bearings as well.

If all look/feel good install the new chain to the proper tension.
If it all runs/sounds smooth you are good to go.
Log date and mileage in for future reference. (When did I install this 18T, 2013 or 2012?)

-Bandera

Where do people come up with this stuff?

I wasn't going to waste my time responding to that one, thanks for doing it anyway. Self-flattening plates??? Let's see; if 50 plates flattened out enough to gain .060" in length, your chain would magically gain 3 inches in length. We'll assume the flate plates know better than to stretch, blame it all on the kinky ones...

Thanks! Sounds good.

I saw this thread and decided to check the chain on the Wabi I got in October. It's at almost 100% wear after just over 1,000 miles. I didn't even think to check it so soon.

Based on the suggestion from @Bandera, I'll replace it with a KMC Z610. I'm also considering picking up a Z510 while I'm at it to see what the difference is between 3/32 & 1/8" chain on 3/32" teeth. Thanks!

i've had the same 4 chains or so... for years. anything of quality will last if taken care of, although ppl will recommend changing as maintenance. stay away from kmc. junk.

quality becomes apparent when you're breakin' and connecting chains. i prefer masterlinks w/ a clip, orientated backwards to it's direction of motion.

@sickz, do you have any recommendations for 3/32" SS/FG chains that aren't junk?