Steel Frame Saver.
 

Does a steel frame need an application of a frame rust protection product? I live in So. CA.

Are you asking about internal or external. External protection would be from the primer and the coats of paint. A clear sealer would help protect the paint. Internally rust protection is definitely a good idea. However, I have a 28 year old steel frame that has never had the internal application and it is in fine shape.The exterior has a lot of chips and scratches and a couple of spots in surface rust. I am in the process of rebuilding the bike and I will use an internal rust prevention. I live in the coastal area of Delaware, 6 miles from the ocean. The bike has been here for that whole time. I take better care of my bikes than I do my cars.

You just have to look at your's and determine if it needs some extra protection. As mentioned inside of tubes and outside need to be considered and might be two different stories. I personally don't worry about surface corrosion whether inside or outside the tube. My bikes are 30 to 40 years old.

Although I may have at some point shot some CRC or WD40 down the tubes just for the heck of it. But I don't obsess about it. If I see some corrosion actually eating into the metal, then I think I might have an excuse for another bike. While I like old bikes, I'll be just as happy to toss them in the scrap pile whenever their time comes.

Depends a lot on how wet your rides are (and where you store your bike), how thin your tubes are (in general, higher quality = bigger issue), was the frame treated before and the alloy used. So the always correct 2 word answer is "it depends". Tell us more.

Edit: fenders also make a big difference, esp if you run full length ones with a deep front flap. But even minis help by lessening water up the headtube and down the seattube.

Ben

There are a lot of variables in play such as how much do you sweat, how long do you want the bike to last, do you ride in the rain, do you clean your bike after every ride, etc.

I'm in So Calif myself and recently stripped down a 10 year old frame to fix some damage and was surprised by how much rust I found. Both end of the head tube and bottom bracket shell had a good bit of rust creep from when the frame was faced before assembly. There was also random rust on the frame such as on the seat binder area of the lug and just simply here and there. Most all was under the paint were it wasn't visible.

Point of all this is that if you sweat a lot like me then you can't clean often enough. And using something like a spray wax on a regular basis would be a good idea. I also coat the inside of my frames with this stuff or similar. It keeps rust at bay nicely, although unless you ride in the rain I don't think internal rust will be an issue in So Calif. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PWZ0XNM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Guessing you mean internal. I would, there's no downside.

There are better products than Frame Saver.

https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/an...t-1073581.html


-Tim-

Inside the frame, vapor condensation is where the water comes in...

In So Cal that what air conditioning can do.. chill to dew point.

The Fluid Film extension wand is pretty cool. I just ordered some spray and the extension wand. I think framesaver is good stuff, the test that said it isn't as good used really unrealistic conditions. Salt spray every day and then battery acid.

This discussion reminds me I need to get my borescope running

I have used Fluid Film on my car doors. Seems to work well.

I'm glad to see there are alternatives to FS. Seems like it occasionally goes OOS.

I am referring to internal rust protection. The frame in question is already 37 yrs old. A NOS MIyata Professional. There is no internal or external rust (chromed under original paint). I don't plan on building it right away. I still haven't decided how to build it up yet. Vintage or contemporary. Right now it's boxed up and stored inside the house. I probably don't need to worry too. much right?

Almost every product in the world is tested under unrealistic conditions.

I used to do 24 hour steam-age tests on circuit boards and watched the Ford Fusions on the shake table where they were bumped and jostled until they literally fell apart.

None of these represent real world conditions but they do approximate what will happen over time.

If a product protects against battery acid and daily salt water then it can protect against daily humidity. Some of the producs failed pretty miserably.


-Tim-

If you're close to the coast, or ride along the coast a lot, I'd treat the insides with Framesaver or something.

I've done several frames with AMSOil Heavy Duty Metal Protector. I don't have the means to inspect inside the tubes, but it seems to work well and comes in a format that make application easy. (Spray can with narrow hose.) My impression is that it is a real step up from linseed oil (Frame Saver). Also costs far less. I paid $8/can. A can will probably do 3 bikes though I have had trouble with old cans getting clogged up so I've never gotten past two bikes.

Biggest drawback - AMS is a little weird. Sorta like door-to-door salesmen. But they have always sold me the stuff with no hassle and not been a pest after.

Ben

No.

At least that is my experience in far wetter Coastal Northern Cali.

If you ride it through salt water, all bets are off.

I have three steel bikes that are 30+ years old and live in the South where it is very humid and rainy during summer and winter. I did not treat any of the bikes and they are rust free on the inside. The outside? Different story. Rock dings take their toll. In the arid climate of SoCal I wouldn't think you'd need to treat the inside but it surely wouldn't hurt. If you can find it, Waxoyl might be a good choice. It's used on cars in the UK and is available here.


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Great link. Thanks.