Used bike pricing
I'm trying to figure out some criteria for appraising an older bike, 6-7y old.
To keep things as generic as possible, what would somebody consider when setting a price? These are the basic features: carbon frame handlebar, stem, seatpost alloy drive: Shimano Ultegra 6800 brakes: rim wheels: base stock AL saddle: stock, base model original price: around $2,500 mileage: probably in the 2k/year range |
Bikes don't hold their value, so figure 25%-35% of its sale price.
Most times it's better to keep the old one as a spare for winter or wet riding. |
Personally I would pay no more than 40% of the MSRP for that bike.
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Like it or not, the brand name of the bike does help determine the resale value.
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Have you ever tried to trade in your old car for a new one? I bet they needed to know what your old car is to give you a price.
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CF bike with 6800? Why sell it?
Markets vary. East Outhouse, North Dakota probably doesn't have a lot of listings ... yours might be the only bike in the local classifieds all year .... but everyone is probably too practical to pay a lot. Somewhere in Cali .... lots of competition, but maybe more available cash. Where I live .... not many really nice bikes for sale but not much demand. People who are willing to pay $800 or $1200 would probably prefer to buy new. But ... you might get lucky .... Check the local classifieds ... but sadly, I think you can expect to not get a lot of cash back. But ... maybe due to the bike shortages thanks the communist China's virus, maybe you will find it a seller's market. |
Originally Posted by GlennR
(Post 21854234)
Bikes don't hold their value, so figure 25%-35% of its sale price.
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I would consider the condition of the bike, service history, brand name, quality of components, location. Also the seller is a big thing. When talking to a seller I want to see they know what the bike is or at least they are genuine about it (obviously some people are selling for relatives that have passed or moved away or don't know a ton about bikes) however I do like a good passionate seller who cared for the bike. Also would love to know serial number to confirm it is real or at least not stolen.
A cheap generic carbon bike or a fake bike (a cheap knockoff frame with stickers from a real bike brand or some of the cheap online brands) isn't worth much compared to a known quantity. |
Originally Posted by rovis
(Post 21854226)
what would somebody consider when setting a price?
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Thanks for your input guys! I've left the brand out since for myself is not important at this point (beginner biker, no brand favs). But for full disclosure, it's a Bianchi Intenso model. Purchased in a LBS, so I don't doubt the origin.
I wasn't too clear about the "appraising" part: I'm actually thinking of buying this, not selling; however, the seller is a friend and asked me to come up with a price. He's an experienced biker, upgraded this year to a BMC etc. From my price research online, hard to come up with a conclusion. There are too many variables involved even for similar bikes, ads are incomplete, model year is usually not listed, etc. I was thinking around 25-30% of original price would be fair. Especially considering that bike will need wheels replacement soon (front hub is moving laterally, probably needs new bearings; rear hub developed a click which again I suspect bearings or at least the freehub). |
I always to go Bicycle Blue Book to get a ball park number. Someone said BBB is hosted by performance bicycle with the intent to low ball people on trade in value. They do tend to give numbers on the low side, but it is better than nothing. What I find informative is how quickly new bikes drop in value.
Personally I'm not sure how to price bikes with carbon frames. Seems like that could go either way, either really help hold the resale or tank it for fear of the unknown. Not trying to start another carbon flame war but personally I'm not sure how to evaluate whether a used carbon bike is solid or not. Seems like knowing the owner should be a huge plus. |
$1400
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Originally Posted by Pop N Wood
(Post 21855145)
I always to go Bicycle Blue Book to get a ball park number. Someone said BBB is hosted by performance bicycle with the intent to low ball people on trade in value. They do tend to give numbers on the low side, but it is better than nothing. What I find informative is how quickly new bikes drop in value.
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If it is 105 10-speed ... you are going to have to upgrade with Tiagra or upgrade the whole drivetrain ... I guess a new Tiagra cassette isn't a big loss by comparison .... I saw a 2015 with Ultegra (11-speed 6800) on EBay for $1700 so figure it might go for $1400 or $1500 ... and I guess shipping isn't an issue. (https://www.lavelocita.cc/la-velocit...intenso-review) (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Top-Conditi...MAAOSwRIJf6voV)
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Price
Originally Posted by rovis
(Post 21855017)
Thanks for your input guys! I've left the brand out since for myself is not important at this point (beginner biker, no brand favs). But for full disclosure, it's a Bianchi Intenso model. Purchased in a LBS, so I don't doubt the origin.
I wasn't too clear about the "appraising" part: I'm actually thinking of buying this, not selling; however, the seller is a friend and asked me to come up with a price. He's an experienced biker, upgraded this year to a BMC etc. From my price research online, hard to come up with a conclusion. There are too many variables involved even for similar bikes, ads are incomplete, model year is usually not listed, etc. I was thinking around 25-30% of original price would be fair. Especially considering that bike will need wheels replacement soon (front hub is moving laterally, probably needs new bearings; rear hub developed a click which again I suspect bearings or at least the freehub). So, you're saying the bike has 12-14,000 miles on it? If the wheels need to be replaced, and haven't already been, I guess I'd want to know the state of the rest of the components. At that mileage, you'd hope that it's had a few chains replaced, and a cassette or two. I'd suspect it would need a new chain ring in front as well, again assuming he's a typical roadie that lives in the big ring. If some, all, or even more parts need to be replaced, the value plummets, and should be pennies on the dollar. The oldest carbon frame I've had was around 20 years old, and was still in good condition. I had one shop suggest that I should check it periodically for soft spots, (this was a Trek, and supposedly they were known for this defect). I found none on my frame, but guess that is what I would look for/feel for if buying used carbon in the future. |
Originally Posted by rovis
(Post 21855017)
Thanks for your input guys! I've left the brand out since for myself is not important at this point (beginner biker, no brand favs). But for full disclosure, it's a Bianchi Intenso model. Purchased in a LBS, so I don't doubt the origin.
I wasn't too clear about the "appraising" part: I'm actually thinking of buying this, not selling; however, the seller is a friend and asked me to come up with a price. He's an experienced biker, upgraded this year to a BMC etc. From my price research online, hard to come up with a conclusion. There are too many variables involved even for similar bikes, ads are incomplete, model year is usually not listed, etc. I was thinking around 25-30% of original price would be fair. Especially considering that bike will need wheels replacement soon (front hub is moving laterally, probably needs new bearings; rear hub developed a click which again I suspect bearings or at least the freehub). Ask your friend what he is looking for on the bike from you. He is selling it, therefore there is a big impetus on him to give you pricing. You aren't the seller and it sounds like you know a little about bikes but not enough to accurately appraise it well. Granted yes you are learning and that was not meant as a knock against you but you shouldn't have to set the price for him. If he wants to sell, he can give you a number and if you feel that number is good you can settle or go back and forth a little. |
If it's 10 speed and needs new wheels, it's not even worth $500. New wheels will cost $200-300.
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I've looked at that BBB site and found the 2014 model which looks like the one in question. Parts in description are pretty similar to what's on this bike.
I've replaced the chain and large chainring and cables recently. In terms of overall appearance, paint has some scratches, brake levers also, so I assume some crashes or 'solid' encounters in time. And yes I agree, seller (friend or not) should set a price. However, in this case, I'm supposed to come up with an offer. |
Originally Posted by rovis
(Post 21855601)
I've looked at that BBB site and found the 2014 model which looks like the one in question. Parts in description are pretty similar to what's on this bike.
I've replaced the chain and large chainring and cables recently. In terms of overall appearance, paint has some scratches, brake levers also, so I assume some crashes or 'solid' encounters in time. And yes I agree, seller (friend or not) should set a price. However, in this case, I'm supposed to come up with an offer. The more I hear the story the more I want to pass on this bike. You might start considering that as well if he won't play ball in his own game. |
Originally Posted by rovis
(Post 21855601)
I've looked at that BBB site and found the 2014 model which looks like the one in question. Parts in description are pretty similar to what's on this bike.
I've replaced the chain and large chainring and cables recently. In terms of overall appearance, paint has some scratches, brake levers also, so I assume some crashes or 'solid' encounters in time. And yes I agree, seller (friend or not) should set a price. However, in this case, I'm supposed to come up with an offer. pretty wide range because what you offer is limited. Bbb is trash. there is no reason to reference it for multiple reasons. |
How much are you willing to pay?
How much of a new bike could you get for that much money or maybe a little more? $1500 could probably get you a decent new bike---one which would already be in perfect condition, one with several thousand miles more life ahead instead of behind it .... possibly with new 105. Check out BikesDirect, Fuji, or Giant, maybe .... See what else your money might buy. One thing about doing business with friends .... it can either work out well or poison the friendship. |
+1
I'd pass on the bike. Given what the OP has said on condition, use, and specifically the wheels(should have been fixed long ago rather than being a current issue), for the money involved, buying a used-like-new or new bike would be a better deal. There's plenty of used bikes out there that have seen minimal use and are in near showroom condition. |
That hub problem is a huge red flag. not because you need to replace it, but it tells the owner is not taking care of the bike and happily sells it with obvious flaws. what about not so obvious flaws? What about all the other neglected maintenance that will cause sooner replacement of parts?
I hope he disclosed the hub problem and didn't let you find out by yourself. I'd give him the benefit of the doubt and assume he doesn't know bikes, so may not be able to repair it or know about faults a lot. Do you actually want it? or is it jsut a thing the friend wants to unload it, and got you interested? I'd find out all the flaws like the hub, and price out the repair. Deduct that from whatever 30% of the new price. Also consider if you can do repairs yourself, or if you are an LBS person. if the latter, you may be better off with a new bike. Bike parts are reasonable, but labor is ridiculous. If wrenching is a hobby and enjoyment, the economics are different. If you pay an LBS $80/h to fix things, it is different. |
+2
Personally, I would pass also. Your friendship may get int he way of the negotiations. Additionally, if the wheels are in need of repair, what else? If you still feel comfortable negotiating for the bike, what condition is the drivetrain in, and the rest of the bike? Do you know how to inspect it? You can get a really good, used low-mile bike for $1000-$1200. If you must have it, I would offer $500 armed with the knowledge that it will need new wheels. Just like buying a car or motorcycle, the price of a used bike that needs work, + the parts to fix it better be significantly less that the repaired bike ready to go.
Originally Posted by fishboat
(Post 21856158)
+1
I'd pass on the bike. Given what the OP has said on condition, use, and specifically the wheels(should have been fixed long ago rather than being a current issue), for the money involved, buying a used-like-new or new bike would be a better deal. There's plenty of used bikes out there that have seen minimal use and are in near showroom condition. |
Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun
(Post 21854325)
Have you ever tried to trade in your old car for a new one? I bet they needed to know what your old car is to give you a price.
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