Front end chatter = cheap fork?
 

I have an old MT bike 1994 Rockadille all painted up nice drop bar conversion gravel bike needed to get new fork as the rockshock was dead (elastomer) so bought cheap rigid steel but now I find it has alot of chatter when I hit the brakes. Is it because it is cheap crap or another reason. I would love to get new carbon fork but I already dumped closed to $300 with the new paint and other upgrades, the 26 inch Mt Bike is fun but not sure worthy of another $100 for a fork.
But it would ave 2 lbs I am sure

What kind of front brake?
Even better, show us a photo of the front brake setup.

not necessarily, could be you did not optimize the brake and headset adjustment..

Is your stem loose? I had my '54 Schwinn Hornet suddenly let go in the middle and the fork and stem kinda turned independently of each other until I put them back together (and I've never seen that before)...:eek:

Assuming you updated to disc brakes:
I find that all of my disc bikes chatter a bit from time to time. The biggest factor I think is the rotor size in relation to the fork rating. My Rockshox Recon has a max rating of a 203mm rotor. The 180mm rotor has almost no chatter I can detect at all.

My Woundup forks have a 180mm rotor diameter rating and 180mm rotors. They chatter a bit, but it's minor, predictable, and doesn't seem to make any difference one way or the other.

I had a bike with a 160mm rotor rating. The 180mm rotor "pulsing" was an irritating problem. Eventually it got "weird" and the fork started to seperate where the crown fitted into the fork blade.

I think it may also be related to the cut outs in the disc providing a different amount of friction as it passes through the brake pads.

You might go with a smaller rotor with more thermal mass like a 140 or 160 mm road rotor if that is an option to lower the torque on the fork blade. The higher thermal mass will help prevent fade as the smaller rotor is under a higher heat load to do the same job as a big rotor.

I've been pleased with IceTech rotors, but there is plenty to choose from.

If you still have canti's of whatever flavor, it's probably your toe-in adjustment, your pads them selves, or a combination of the 2. We here at BF will suggest Kool-Stop Salmon for any and all situations in life. They will also call your Mom and invite her to tea because they are the bestest friend you & your bike can have.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...19362884f7.jpg

1994 rockadille in new paint
So my shop did all the work it remain old school cant's

Looks like stem-mounted cable hanger which was just as I suspected.
A fork-crown mounted cable hanger is the solution.
In your case, you appear to have the Tektro "brake booster" plate there, and it has a hole at the top center which can be used to mount the cable hanger.
Example of some fork-crown hangers here: Bicycle Brake Cable Hardware from Harris Cyclery

Now for the explanation of why the stem-mounted hanger causes shudder is here: https://www.velonews.com/2010/09/cyc...o-cross_101807

But it is missing a photo, so I will attach it here:https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...630fedd3bd.jpg

Agree.

Dude very impressive that seems to be the issue I will investigate and make the change and report back
Very cool glad it is not just me

Go with V brakes,,