Need Help Picking Replacement Wheel (long)
 

I have a 2018 Cannondale Synapse 105 SE (aluminum frame). I’m not fast but I’ve put 11,637 miles on it in 14 months.

On the rear rim I recently noticed six hairline cracks. All of the cracks are at the spoke nipple holes. The cracks run longways (parallel) along the rim, and they are spread roughly evenly around the wheel.

I plan to keep this bike another 2 ½ to 3 years, then upgrade to a carbon frame Ulterga bike. So probably, about another 24,000 miles on this Synapse.

I’m not currently considering carbon wheels, because I don’t think that lower end carbon is worth it. And better carbon wheels costs more than I paid for the bike.

LBS has quoted $125 for cheapest wheel in the shop (do not want!), to $350 for a very good or possibly the best aluminum wheel in stock (rear wheel only). I asked (on phone) the brand and model of the better wheel, but after two tries I still didn’t hear him well.

Details:
The OEM rims are WTB brand aluminum rims. WTB STP i19 TCS 28-hole, tubeless ready. 700C, minimum tire width is 28mm, max is about 38, but I want to run 28’s. 105 Shimano 5800 11 speed free hub. Axles are QR drop outs. Brakes are TRP Spyre C cable disc, 160mm, 6 hole disc mount.

I would greatly appreciate general suggestions, and especially links to USA located sellers (retailers and e-bay) of good new (I don’t want used parts) aluminum wheelsets that fit my bike.

Crazy impressive mileage!

Is the bike still under warranty? I had a rear wheel come apart on me after almost a year and the shop surprised me by replacing it.

I'm retired and I like to ride.

The Cannondale warranty is 1 year, so no luck there.

Find a good wheel builder and have him lace a new rim to your hub. I use Mavic Open Pro rims. Option b: Write to Psimet, (member of BF)

How much labor might a highly competent wheel builder charge?

Have a good wheel builder lace up a DT RR411 (depending on your weight) or a heavier model DT.

Around here it's $40-$60. I had a friend who did a great job for $25. The key is that they take their time and get even tension. I tried it myself but I'd rather pay someone. Don't forget new spokes.

That's a lot less expensive than I expected.

Have you checked CL for used wheels?

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/m...NhdDEwMDQ2NA==

Includes the tire.

I have a set of those in my garage and the rear one is new because it was replaced after failing the third time. The first 2 were warranteed, the third one I had to pay for.
I have broken so many wheels it's ridiculous. My best luck has been with hand built wheels with traditional spokes/nipples and eyeleted rims.

I would be highly suspect of used wheels unless I knew the seller well.

Wow. I've been using them without issue. Hit pot holes at serious speed with no problems. You must be a lot bigger than me (187 lbs) and a lot more powerful. Which wouldn't be hard.

I'm down to 205# now. Back when I was young and strong I was around 220. I've always been hard on wheels. I used to think it was my dirt bike background, you usually loft the front wheel and let the rear slam into stuff. Those Ksyrium wheels were a real let down, though. The last one I was pretty easy on it and the spokes pulled through the rim. I was far from home so I tried to keep riding after the first spoke, then 2 more pulled out and it wouldn't even roll. Took a taxi home for the first time.

I read an article by Lennard Zinn where he studied riders who broke stuff and he said some riders have a "spike" in their power stroke and this causes more than normal flexing of parts which he thinks contributes to part failure.

This is really interesting. I've used Ksyrium Elite clinchers for quite a few years and never had any issue. I did pull a spoke out of an Easton rear once. But, generally I don't have that problem. I've hit pot holes with the clinchers and USTs at 40 mph and they never even went out of true. I always wonder what makes the experiences different for people. Maybe Zinn has it nailed.

OP, how big are you?

Your size and weight could be factors in the rim failing, and it's hard to suggest a good replacement option without knowing this.

I weigh 175.

I want to stay with 28mm tire width. Would prefer rims that are rated for 100psi or better.

The bike was about $1,250 new, so I am reluctant to spend more than a third of its cost, around $400, on a wheel or wheelset.

More info on what would fit my bike:
700c
Shimano 105 11 speed hub (5800).
6 bolt disc brake - not the more common center spline mount.
QR skewers.

Rear skewer:
5mm thickness.
170mm length to the washer. 180 total length. Rear drop out internal width (uncompressed by skewer) 141mm.

I'm including front measurements because if priced right, I'd buy front and rear set to keep the wheels matched.

Front skewer:
5mm thickness.
130mm length to the washer.
140mm total length.
Front fork drop out inside width 101mm (uncompressed).

Info from the sticker on cracked rim:
ETRTO size: 622-19c
Inner rim width: 19c
ETRTO recommended tire section width: 28 - 62mm.

Thanks for the link. Nice site with great sale prices. I bookmarked it. But I don't see anything there that would fit my bike. By the time I drill down the options, road wheels, tubeless or clincher, 6 bolt disc, there was nothing left with 140mm QR skewer. Also, if they mentioned the free hub compatibility, I didn't see it.

Thanks for the suggestion, but I don't know nearly enough about wheels to buy used.

100+ psi at 28 mm sounds like a lot. It sounds like you could get by with a lot less air and enjoy a more comfortable ride.

https://www.coloradocyclist.com/mavi...yABEgLwPPD_BwE

https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/mavic-o...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

I usually run 88 to 90 psi. The 100 is for a safety margin, and inadvertent overinflation. That said, my 28mm Continental GP 4000s II have a maximum pressure of 110 psi, so it seems reasonable to me to have rims to match.

Thanks. Right now I'm looking for the whole wheel assembly. I plan to check some LBS tomorrow, and depending on local whole wheel prices, if they have anyone that laces wheels I may go with the new rim and spokes option.

Looking around the bikeinn site, I don't any complete wheels that looks like an exact fit for my bike.

Which more or less the reason I started the thread asking for help. Before I posted, spent and hour each on Amazon and ebay, and no seach terms brought up wheels that I was sure would fit.

They don't mention if the disc brake wheels are 6 bolt or center mount. Another problem is the skewers. Can I run thicker skewers if they come with the wheels. Or are the dropouts on my bike designed for 5mm only?

The six bolt-ness is optional; you'd just need a centrelock rotor.

I hope your LBS has a good wheel builder. It's not terribly hard to build a wheel and most shops will do it for you. Anyway, the good thing about this route is you can talk to a human being about how and where you ride your bike, what you're trying to get out of your wheels, etc, and they'll be able to recommend a setup that will be a good match for you.

Centerlock is generally preferable, but it's not a big deal, they both work. The dropouts in your bike are going to limit the skewer you can use.