Huret Duopar
 

I have a chance to buy one of these for $55 and free shipping. I think they're ugly, but I've heard that they work better than any other vintage long cage derailer. I would be replacing a Nuovo Record with a Rally cage because I don't like the way it shifts. The Huret appears to be in great condition and it does have the titanium cage.

Should I go for it?

http://velobase.com/ViewSingleCompon...m=108&AbsPos=8

yes, an eco (steel version) just sold on ebay for like $50 the titanium ones usually go for much more, if you don't like it I'll buy it from you.

I recently won one on eBay for about $34 shipped from the UK, so you might get a better deal if you wait. I haven't put it in service yet, so no info on functionality.

Neal

I ran both the titanium and the steel versions back in the 1980's. Then they disappeared along with Huret. They were the smoothest, cleanest shifting RD's I've ever seen. I'd trade in my Ultegra RD's in a flash for a NOS Huret Duopar. Steel or titanium. They both feel the same. :thumb:

I bought it. I'm sure I'll be able to recoup my money by selling my NR with Rally and standard cages. I'll be replacing one of the prettiest derailers ever with one of the ugliest, but that's okay if it works better.

Thanks for your responses!

Yes, these shifted very well - had them on touring bikes in the 80's. But reliability was an issue for me. The latest version had a plastic housing that would crack. The other one lost its small bits readily.

I doubt if you will be disappointed. Sporty's Eco Duopar shifts significantly better then the 2nd gen Rally on my '66 Paramount.

You did the right thing - you might get lucky and find one cheaper, but you might wait years to do so - you got a pretty nice deal.
Edit: Oops, forgot to mention that the little keyed washer on the bolt that alines the derailleur properly in the dropout is a pretty important bit to have. Some Duopars have lost their along the way.

Just what I was going to add!

I have two that I used for a year, with zero reliability issues.

Just be aware that they are delicate by today's standards. So approach with a Zen-attitude and adjust it perfectly. I saw one that wasn't adjusted - a titanium one - properly. It shifted into the spokes and was chewed into literal pieces. Once adjusted - you're going to love it!

The Duopar is a great derailleur; I have several on bikes here. My commuter bike has an original 1978 "Eco" (steel) version I've been using continuously since I bought it new.

Looking at the pictures in the link you provided, I suspect that the unit on offer is actually an "Eco" model. All the titanium ones I've seen (including several I have here) have dark titanium bodies and cages, while the Eco models have the lighter steel bodies and cages.

Titanium on the top row, steel on the bottom row:

http://os2.dhs.org/~john/duopars.jpg

You can also see the bluish tinge to the arms on the Ti ones.

Yes - the titanium Duopar's are a distinct bluish-gray color. And came with a little sticker that simply says TITANE. But this was separate from the derailleur itself. The "Eco" is steel-colored.

I just posted a link to a picture on Velobase. That's not the one I bought.

There's a new titanium cage on eBay right now if anyone wants to upgrade their Eco.

The keyed washer issue has me worried. I hope it's there!

I have been running one my touring bike since.. I dunno, a long time ago. Worked great on 5, 6, and 7-speed freewheels (same evolving bike). But a bit touchy on 9 speed.

Slightly related, have any of you had experience with DuoPar FD? cudak888 sent me one to use on "Sporty" to complement the Eco DuoPar RD already installed. I'm debating using it because I don't know if it can handle a triple crankset. Your advice is appreciated. Here's the one pictured in the 1978 Catalogue, which looks like mine:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...8/Page04-1.jpg

Here is a picture of an ECO on my 1973 SS Schwinn and it is at least equal to or better than any other friction shifting derailleur I own. Roger

I don't want to come off like a smartass, but the catalog page you posted says double or triple.

Does anybody have a picture of that "keyed washer"?

DD, well, you did come off like one--- and maybe I'm a dumb a** for not asking the question better. So here goes again:

Has anyone had experience using the Duopar RD (pictured above) with their triple crankset? If so how did it work out? Thanks!

Dupoar
 

I have Duopars installed on 3 bikes here, all with triples:

50-45-28 with 13-28 freewheel & bar end shifters
48-44-26 with 13-30 freewheel & down tube shifters
47-42-26 with 14-30 freewheel & down tube shifters

All work just fine.

I got this on Ebay for $17.00 plus shipping. Great deal, at first sight, but it lacks aforementioned keyed washer and therefore not useable.

Somebody in possession of this crucial element, please post a pic or lend it to me, and I'll have a machinist make a stack for all us in need.

BTW, I think they are beautiful in their own utilitarian fashion.


http://www.fivenineclimber.com/image...lli/duopar.jpg

There were actually several versions of the keyed washer, depending on what dropout you were using: one for the Huret-type dropouts, one for the unthreaded Simplex dropouts, and one for the Campy type dropouts.

I'll have to see if I can find some without removing a derailleur from one of the bikes.

John,

Thanks! :thumb:

This was the kind of confirmation I was hoping to receive. :)

Huret tabbed washers
 

Ok, here's a couple pictures of the Huret tabbed washers. These were not unique to the Duopar derailleurs, so if you can find a cheap/mangled Challenger or Success derailleur you can salvage the hardware for them to get your Duopar up and running. The old "Alvit" and "Svelto" units also used a tabbed washer but generally came on the Huret-type mounting claw and won't directly work on a Campy type dropout.

Here's the Huret-type claw and hardware on the top row and Campy-type mounting hardware on the bottom row:

http://os2.dhs.org/~john/huret-tab.jpg

Here's a close-up of the tabbed washer:

http://os2.dhs.org/~john/huret-washer.jpg

Note that in addition to the bent tab designed to catch the stop on the dropout, there are also a pair of punched indents in the washer to fit into a slot on the derailleur to hold it in place. You can get by with a simple flat washer if you crank the mounting bolt down hard to prevent the derailleur from pivoting on the mounting bolt, but that complicates wheel removal and is less than ideal.