3D printed parts
 

Sorry

I spent A LOT of time making toe-strap fixings for clipless pedals a couple of years ago. After dozens of prototypes, I feel like I had really solid designs for both LOOK KEO MAX 2 and Dura Ace pedals. Then I ran into the limitations of the materials. Because of the nature of the process, they were prone to sheering between the layers if the stress were enough.

I reached out to a company that could take my files and make 3D prints using metal (which would have been an upgrade), but family and work stuff took precedent and I lost steam.

I even had an idea for a chain tensioner that would be faster to use than screws...but also lost steam.

I've looked at metal printing services, but they seemed far out of reach (the quote for the extension above was ~$7k in Titanium and ~$2k in Aluminum. Which seemed a bit too steep for a prototype :D - although I admit I didn't explore it very far or get multiple quotes)

I'm decently handy with composites, I think I could take one of these (structural parts) print them with water soluble filament, then wrap them in carbon/kevlar.
It's a lot of work though, and at that point it kind of just makes more sense to make a either make a 2-3 piece mold, or in the case of the extensions, just take a plaster mold like some of the custom companies do.
That all leads down the rabbit hole of having it approved, safety tested, for sale to the public, etc etc.(Sounds like a lot of work for someone who - similar to you - has a very limited amount of steam :D :D )

Could you print pedal caps. These get lost all the time, especially Shimano 600s. I personally have three sets with each needing caps and they can't be used. I would cannibalize rough sets at the co-op but in the Covid world that's out.

If you can make them, I'd post on the sales forum under c&v. Also, downtube shifter boss covers for the Cyclone and Shimano single post mounts that allow bikes to switch to brifters or barcons can run over $100 for used ones. There's a market for those also

Looking at some pictures of the caps, it looks like it would be possible to make some. I would need some exact measurements though

I'm not sure about the shifter boss covers, do you have a link to some. I admit DT shifting was going out when I started wrenching bikes and I have little experience with it.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...be34eead4.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0bf77a0d3.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...adfd5159f.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...12358a4e8.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c8191d79d.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7e8eccf39.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5a1b2da35.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...12e9c47f9.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2b932fa22.jpeg

i made some 3d printed parts(petg) for my bike.
i never had trouble 3d printed parts breaking.
i always made sure the parts are printed in correct direction so the force doesn’t break the parts.

if anyone is interested in the file, please contact me. I will share the file with you.

- shimano njs strap adapter
- srm pcv saddle adapter(very tight fit, i designed it based on Prusa MK3S)
- srm PC7 saddle adapter

@Morelock and gycho77


I don't have any accurate measurements but I have several caps (as an example I have the Shimano 600 ones). What would it take? I assume each ridge would need to be photo'd and measured? Not sure as never done this before.


As for shifter boss covers, this is a factory original. It was named the Sun Tour cable stop for aero mount. There was a similar Shimano labeled one.


https://velobase.com/CompImages/Smal...E01D812A8.jpeg


There was a similar Shimano labeled one and it was more elegant.


https://velobase.com/CompImages/Shif...D2B2E80D7.jpeg

WGB

I'm not sure about the boss covers. Are they just a cover? The Shimano one looks like the shifter attaches to it... if that's the case I don't think the stuff I print would take the higher stress (albeit others may disagree or use different material) Sorry I'm just not 100% sure.

The caps... I might need one to go off of as often there are little tolerance issues that come up from screen to print. Failing that, a few high res picture from different angles, and the vital measurements (if it plugs in, the diameter of the plug side, the outside, overall length / width - if it's threaded would also need the pitch/etc)

Very nice work...I am sure there is a market for the parts you are making....Good Luck!
Best, Ben

Morelock
Out of curiosity what type of printer/model are you using? A quick look at printers shows prices all over the place.
Any recommendations on an inexpensive/good model?
Best, Ben

I bought a Monoprice Duplicator i3 (just a rebranded Wanhao i3) v2 - any of those rebranded prusa i3 models are a good place to start for people imo because the support group around them is very deep and they are relatively cheap. The Monoprices and Enders are usually pretty cheap.

If I was buying a printer today the list of things I'd want to answer
- What's the minimum build area I will accept (honestly, this isn't super important if you can do editing work as you can break larger files into pieces, still, a decent x/y and especially z height makes things easier
- has a heated bed (must have imo)
- Automatic bed leveling? (I upgraded to this a few months ago... it's not a must have, but it is a big quality of life improvement)
- Uses Marlin Firmware (a lot of the i3 variants use a Melzi board with Repetier firmware... it works, but down the road if you ever want to open up add ons / more control, you'll want/need Marlin and possibly an upgraded board - you can flash the firmware yourself, but it's a fairly drawn out process if you aren't familiar with arduino's)
- What filament do you want to print with (PLA is about what you're going to be printing out of the box on most things, for ABS you'll need a box to help control temperatures, and also likely an all metal hotend, to print very abrasive material you'll need a more exotic hotend)

I've also been playing with a resin 3d printer lately. It's another option for small parts (the build size x/y is roughly cell phone size) or if you want very high resolution details.

Morelock,
Many thanks for all of the useful information, I am considering one in the near future and your insights are helpful. :thumb:
Best, Ben

Morelock I see your point about the shifter cover, though the shifter cable simply attaches to it and there shouldn't be any excessive stresses on it.

Not sure a simple boy like me can measure it correctly but can I mail you a 600 pedal cap? That way once you have the file made up everyone who has these pedals sitting without caps will be in luck as they can get them printed locally (unless you'd prefer to sell them on here).

Sure, I'd be happy to work on it and send the file to anyone that needs them. Hit me up in PM and I'll get you the info.

Could you share the file with me.

Very interested in getting the some files but I can’t make a message since I just made an account. Just did my first tt yesterday and I am obsessed. After I make ten posts I’ll message you!

Could I get the aero bar file, I've just got a 3D printer and had started making more aero parts like this but couldn't find any good aero bar designs like these.

I am holding off on distributing the aerobar file for a bit... I have had numerous people ask for it that really did not understand the limitations of most commercial 3d printers who were intending to print and ride them even after giving them multiple warnings that it's not safe.

I'm sorry it's spoiling the fun for everyone, but I really wouldn't want someone to get hurt and it's impossible to sift through who gets it and who's just saying what I want to hear online.

I understand I did find this one filament that might able stable enough they used the parts in and on the bike supporting weight and such.

I'm replying to you, but this is just a general fyi/info for those who find this thread

there are a few of these filaments that have been floating around... they ARE NOT strong enough for functional weight bearing parts like extensions.
The first issue with "carbon fiber" filaments is that they are a low % of strands... this sounds fancy, but in reality carbon fiber is only strong *because* of the weave pattern. This is why you never see functional parts made with chopped carbon (besides a beauty layer) it NEEDS to have a weave (or long unidirectional strands) to have it's rigid properties.

This is filament that is likely stronger than PLA/ABS/ maybe PETG... but it is not on the level of what is necessary to meet safety requirements for an aerobar. There ARE filaments that would meet these requirements, but until you start looking at $200k+ printers, you aren't in that ballpark. Look at something like Aerocoach's ascalon extensions... they do make a 3d printed (titanium) version, but their cheaper/regular carbon ones are layed up in molds the old fashioned way. These guys are cutting edge for the most part, and they aren't printing in some random filament, nylonx, black aluminum, etc... trust me, there is a reason for that. If someone could print working cockpit parts on a home user level machine, they would absolutely be dominating the market right now... and nobody is.

This is really important for anyone reading... DO NOT TAKE SHORTCUTS, do your own research and really understand what your machine/filaments limitations are. Look at what happened to AUS at the Olympics with their extensions in the TP... and that was printed on a multiple hundred thousand dollar machine with lots of testing. Start with printing fun, easy things, learn the properties of your filament/printer, then work your way up. It could save your life!

I could really use one of these adapters. Was there a 3d file that was ever made for it? It could potentially be CNC machined.

drewfio not that I'm aware of. If I had one (or a blueprint) I might be able to make one in Fusion.

Hello! I understand your health concerns. I have a 3D printer and have experience with carbon fiber. I also enjoy cycling and compete in the masters category. I'm interested in aerobars. What would you say if you print the parts on a printer (with thin walls), and then apply 5 layers of carbon fiber on top of the part by laminating? This is a lengthy and complex method, but the least expensive for custom production.

It's possible to, but you're still cutting corners realistically.
A better use for a 3d printer is either to print the negative (2pc mould) or print a positive and then build a mould around it traditionally, then lay up your carbon fiber.

It's going to be very tedious to figure out a way to vacuum bag a complex aero extension, figure out how to mount/bond/laminate your connection point into that by doing what you're suggesting. Much easier just to use your 3d printer for plug making.

What you suggest will be effective in replicating copies. Then the manufacture of the matrix will be beneficial. But with single options, the lamination option is acceptable. Did similar. This is how they do it in aviation. Can I ask you for files of aerobars and armrests? If I do, I will show the result. Thanks!