Tempo too far gone?
Hey guys. Picked up this sweet Tempo for 10 bucks. It has a lot of rust but the paint is clean in most sports. Do you think its too far gone? If anything, I got a nice headset and seatpost binder bolt :foo::foo:
EDIT: I got the headset, cups, and Bottom bracket no problem. . . http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...z.jpg~original http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...y.jpg~original http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...s.jpg~original http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...i.jpg~original http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...p.jpg~original http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...8.jpg~original |
It ain't beautiful, but then if it were you wouldn't have gotten it for $10.
I wouldn't bother with much more besides removing the worst of the rust and some rattle can touch up. Then build it with spare parts form the salvage bin, and you'll have a decent beater bike. |
Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 19179283)
It ain't beautiful, but then if it were you wouldn't have gotten it for $10.
It wasn't much before I joined BF that I sold a Tempo for $10 at a garage sale. It was in far better shape than the one pictured above. :bang: |
I would have it sand blasted to see the extent of the rust damage, then rattle can it. Framesaver for sure as that looks to have been an outside bike.
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You did okay for 10 bucks. Looks like a good winter project. As others have said, can't really tell about the frame until you clean those areas very well. You will probably find some hidden rust in other places. If after cleaning the frame it is still strong, treat for future rust problems....then you come back and tell us your plans for it.
Look forward to the report! Those are good bikes. Too bad the frame did not come with a fork. Is there tube damage near the HT joining the top tube or down tube ? |
Originally Posted by 3speedslow
(Post 19179942)
You did okay for 10 bucks. Looks like a good winter project. As others have said, can't really tell about the frame until you clean those areas very well. You will probably find some hidden rust in other places. If after cleaning the frame it is still strong, treat for future rust problems....then you come back and tell us your plans for it.
Look forward to the report! Those are good bikes. Too bad the frame did not come with a fork. Is there tube damage near the HT joining the top tube or down tube ? http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...v.jpg~original http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...8.jpg~original http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...e.jpg~original http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...a.jpg~original http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...c.jpg~original |
I think I will do a Evaporust treatment first to assess the dmg. Im not sure I want to spend the 70 (sand blast and podwercoat quote) + decals for this.....Decisions
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The fork is the only thing that gives me pause and is the main thing that could cause a serious crash if it failed. That said, consider this another vote for fully removing all the rust via naval jelly, evaporust and/or some vigourous wire brushing and you will be able to see what the condition is of the metal underneath. I am doing the same and then POR-15'ing and riding the heck out of an '84 Mongoose frame that looks like the BB area was submerged in the Puget Sound for a couple years.
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Any tips on evaporusting? Ive seen people using a kiddy pool, but not sure a gallon would be enough of it. Evaporust is kind of expensive per gallon. Id like to fully submerge the entire frame and fork if possible
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Originally Posted by primo123
(Post 19181599)
Any tips on evaporusting? Ive seen people using a kiddy pool, but not sure a gallon would be enough of it. Evaporust is kind of expensive per gallon. Id like to fully submerge the entire frame and fork if possible
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ALso, I believe this is an 1985 model. Is that correct?
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Those are sweet bikes. I'd de-rust it and if you're lucky, the thin tubes will not be rusted through anywhere. Then build it up make a cool and inexpensive racer out of it.
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 19181609)
I use old fashioned Naval Jelly. It's basically similar chemistry -- phosphoric acid, but thick enough to stay put when applied, so I can brush it in the areas I'm treating vs. having to buy enough to submerge whole parts.
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Originally Posted by primo123
(Post 19181613)
Where can I purchase Naval Jelly? Do i just apply it and let it sit for a day, then scrub it off with a wire brush?
Like the other products, it doesn't actually remove rust, but converts it to another compound. Depending on your application, you can paint over it, or wire brush it for a smoother finish. Good luck, BTW- I just looked at the bottle, mine is a Loctite product. |
I'm a fan of Evapo-Rust, but I prefer oxalic acid for frames and forks. It works practically the same and it's cheaper, making big jobs more feasible. You can pick up a small tub of oxalic acid crystals (sold as wood bleach or deck bleach) for under ten bucks from hardware or paint stores like Sherwin-Williams. Mix the contents of that small tub with a kiddie pool full of water, let it sit overnight, and voilá.
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Originally Posted by primo123
(Post 19181611)
ALso, I believe this is an 1985 model. Is that correct?
http://i989.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps3pnmycph.jpg |
That looks like a decent project for ten bucks. What city are you located in?
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Originally Posted by Hudson308
(Post 19182095)
That looks like a decent project for ten bucks. What city are you located in?
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I would start at the bottom bracket first, since there is significant rust at the base of the frame and if you can't remove the bb cups, well don't bother doing anything else.
Spritz PB Blaster or the rust penetrant of your choice to soak into the threads. Reapply daily for 2-3 days. Then give it a try, use a torch if you need to too. If PB + patience + heat doesn't work, you may need to dip the frame in an Oxalic acid solution, basically Savogran wood bleach, about $9 for 8 oz of powder soluble with water. The fork can be soaked too in OA, or hit it with a wire brush and poke at it with a pick. |
Originally Posted by oddjob2
(Post 19182304)
I would start at the bottom bracket first, since there is significant rust at the base of the frame and if you can't remove the bb cups, well don't bother doing anything else.
Spritz PB Blaster or the rust penetrant of your choice to soak into the threads. Reapply daily for 2-3 days. Then give it a try, use a torch if you need to too. If PB + patience + heat doesn't work, you may need to dip the frame in an Oxalic acid solution, basically Savogran wood bleach, about $9 for 8 oz of powder soluble with water. The fork can be soaked too in OA, or hit it with a wire brush and poke at it with a pick. |
A kiddie pool, garbage can, or a bike/flat screen box and a construction grade garbage bag. I use about 1/4 cup per gallon. HD, Lowes, Ace all carry it.
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Originally Posted by oddjob2
(Post 19182339)
A kiddie pool, garbage can, or a bike/flat screen box and a construction grade garbage bag. I use about 1/4 cup per gallon. HD, Lowes, Ace all carry it.
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Actually, thinking about it, grab your frame and head to Walmart. They sell the wood bleach too.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite...-Blue/45924275 |
Originally Posted by oddjob2
(Post 19182438)
Actually, thinking about it, grab your frame and head to Walmart. They sell the wood bleach too.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite...-Blue/45924275 |
Scratch that i found it
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