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Originally Posted by gugie
(Post 20652349)
Did we face and chase the head tube? I can't remember. I don't think we pressed the headset in, as my press isn't long enough for that frame.
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Originally Posted by 52telecaster
(Post 20642045)
Put drop bars on the bob. Been wanting to try this for a while because my neck feels pretty good. As you can tell they are still very high.
It seems that everything I do to hurt myself gets better the more I ride... |
Originally Posted by RiddleOfSteel
(Post 20652443)
We didn't do that since, I believe, the steerer and fork were the issues of the day (at least at the front of the frame), which is why I'm confident it isn't the steerer or fork. Having the headset cups on helped for taping and masking the lugs for painting as there was more 'neutral surface' to secure to when dealing with the complex Nervex lugs. The head tube has no bulges or other visual clues that would indicate a structural issue or misalignment, and of course the cups look to be happily and evenly seated. Headset cup and nut threads could be toast. It's still surprising to me that all the cups and races are 100% in great shape. Could I have too few bearing balls in each race/cup? There are at least 19-21 in the top (loose ball) and a tighter-packed caged setup (likely the same number range as the top--at least 19). I think it can hold up to about 22, but I'd have to check.
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Originally Posted by gugie
(Post 20652454)
I can face and chase it, but my press isn't long enough. If your co-op has the tools, I'd get that done first - it never hurts to have both bearing surfaces perfectly concentric. You can always bring it down to the Atelier for the face and chase if you don't otherwise have access to that tool.
EDIT: To everyone else reading this exchange, the headset loosening issue has been from day 1 of reassembly after paint and decals. The frameset came to the bike coop 'disassembled' with the frame hosting a carbon fiber fork (not joking) with a crown race literally placed on the crown yet not pressed down those last 6mm. The original fork was in a separate pile. There were beyond too many bearing balls in the headset, which again, was partially and very incorrectly 'assembled'. Upon reassembly, the Paramount was not ridden much, nor for very long distance, thus the headset loosening was a much slower occurrence. 90 miles over labor day weekend fully brought the problem (and its friend, frustration) to bear. As the Paramount has assumed winter/rain bike duty, with a number of rainy rides already completed, previous efforts to stop the loosening have failed and so I am sidelining it until I can get to the bottom of it. Gugie's replacement of the steerer while preserving the fork crown's chrome was astounding and greatly appreciated. His work is not nor has it ever been the problem. It is now time for me, personally, to try and fully address the headset issue, to do away with the band-aid solutions that have unfortunately not worked. Remember that this bike came to me in just about the saddest and weirdest state possible (outside of being fished from a lake where a murder happened or something), and just about no bike/frame escapes the jaws of death completely unscathed. To come away with this as the only (small) problem, well, aside from the steerer, is commendable and a testament to the quality of top-of-the-line Schwinn. Because of this P15, I've been on the very low key and very casual lookout for a P13 of the same era. Frameset, naturally. ;) |
Having a little fun cleaning up the new "errand/yard sale" bike for next spring and summer. The Weinmann 500 brakes may be cheap but they sure shine up nice.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1634eb1705.jpg |
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Originally Posted by scozim
(Post 20652681)
Having a little fun cleaning up the new "errand/yard sale" bike for next spring and summer. The Weinmann 500 brakes may be cheap but they sure shine up nice.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1634eb1705.jpg |
Originally Posted by Lascauxcaveman
(Post 20650279)
Over the weekend, I built up this (late 70s? Viva Sport?) for my older sis, to replace her incredibly rusty, bent, pig-iron mid 70s Mirage. That thing was a tragedy: Bent DS crank arm (cranks rusted in place; probably non-removable) stem rusted in place (probably non-removable) steel everything except for said stem, turkey levers and the well-worn VGT rear derailleur.
Her new bike features no less than 5 colors of cable housing, zip-tie cable clamps, hockey tape over recycled foam 'cork' bar wrap (added after pix) and a pair of alloy rims (mismatched, a certainement) which I put on her Moto a couple years ago when she still refused to give it up. It's a low end, parts bin build, but unquestionably a huge upgrade over the Moto. The biggest improvement is the spindle doesn't move up and down and sideways 1/4" within the bottom bracket. Also good: 6+ lbs lighter. The recycled, bent, rusted, sanded and spraybombed fenders gave me a nearly perfect fender line after a few minutes of hammering the heavy metal fender stays into a mostly-straight condition. Honestly one of the easiest fender installations I've ever done. I'll take my little victories where I can get them :) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4803/...80bc891f_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1963/...cfd3c30e_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1943/...a7c66696_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1921/...143f15c3_b.jpg Longtime readers may remember this old Univega as being the worlds ugliest fixie from years ago, complete with badly faded and peeling adhesive woodgrain shelf paper on the tubes: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4691/...4c6e2032_b.jpg |
It seems seatposts are my current focus.
I replaced the tarnished Campy SR post in the Medici with this beauty: https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bd8cfa37fd.jpg ...and replaced the Campy NR Colnago-pantographed post in the gold Colnago Mexico with this: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ed54df5350.jpg I had to clean them both up a bit (mainly some moderate zig-zagging), and in the case of the Colnago post, re-enamel the flutes and engravings. Well worth the effort across the board. Next up: cockpit adjustments. I've finally given up running my brake levers so low; my back just can't abide any longer. I tested re-located levers on the Medici through the summer and got more miles than ever, so I'm a convert. Still have a number of bikes to go, but I've got all winter to git 'er done :) DD |
Originally Posted by ryansu
(Post 20652698)
Seeing all these nice Pugs of late has me jonesing for one -like I really need another project! What model is Carbolite 103 your errand runner @scozim?
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Originally Posted by gugie
(Post 20652449)
Neck issues? I have a slipped disc in my upper spine, makes it hard to hold my head up while riding - but little by little it's getting better. I even have one bike now that has the bars a half inch lower than the saddle!
It seems that everything I do to hurt myself gets better the more I ride... |
Originally Posted by 52telecaster
(Post 20652774)
Mine is arthritis according to the docs best guess. Of course not having insurance I havnt pursued remedies. I will have coverage in January so I may talk to a doc about it. Personally I think less days standing on concrete and more riding helps me a lot. I am nowhere near getting the bars even level but I put them where I can ride and dont worry about anyone else. Glad you feel better! Old guys unite.
(Amazon) |
depends on what you're calling wrenching....
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Originally Posted by ryansu
(Post 20652793)
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Originally Posted by RiddleOfSteel
(Post 20651946)
All that to say that my recent frame acquisition, a 1980 Trek 410 (had a few 412-specific parts still on it), is now adorned with some of the finest shiny touring bits. I had to drop the tire size from 32mm to 28mm to get the fenders to clear, but it all works well. I changed the Cinelli 65 bars / Shimano BL-R600 lever combo to a Nitto Noodle / Tektro R200 lever combo. The new setup is more comfortable for long rides on a frame/bike that's meant for them. The Cinelli 65s are fantastic and allow for a lot of comfort...on a shorter ride race bike. The 410 is geometrically very similar to my P15 Paramount, with slight variation in trail and longer chain stays (44.5cm vs 43.5cm). So far....I really like this bike. Was there orange rust dust along the bottom of the inner top tube? Oh yes. Is there paint bubbling in a number of areas beneath that beautiful nearly-black dark grey-blue metallic paint? Yup. Are the main tubes Ishiwata 022 and the rest 'just' hi-ten steel? You got it. I will do a build thread soon, for posterity and simultaneous evangelism regarding this 'entry-level' Trek's worthy place in a line-up of the nicest touring/sport touring bikes. I'm glad my excitement for this frameset has been affirmed with a fantastic ride!
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Last night after dinner, I got everything but the fork off a '87 Ironman. The FW finally breaking free after using the vise and making the workbench jump around some. At times like these, the "CRACK" always makes me fear the worst. It's all good. The BB came out without trouble since it is not French or Italian.
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Originally Posted by jlaw
(Post 20652918)
fyi - If your 1980 410 has similar geometry/clearances to my 1985 410 - you could fit 38mm tires with a 650b wheel set. I really like the way my 410 rides - cushy without being sluggish.
A 1980 410 had 44.5cm chain stays, longer than a Miyata 1000's until about 1984! Looks like an '85 410 had 42.5cm stays. I think my 410 would have the clearance to run 38's, but it may be snug in spots. Fenders could be tight as well with those tires. Not quite on the 650 train yet, fat tires either. I still like my long and lean bike proportions. :) But thank you for the fitment information--I will file it away! |
My town bike hasn't been shifting lately. Nothing, in the rear. It's a 95 Giant Yukon and receives maintenance only when it has to have it. I finally put it in the stand, got out the WD40, fiddled with a few things, and found the cable clamped into the clamped on kickstand I added a few weeks ago. Re-cabled it and it works beautifully. While I was at it, I changed out the road crank to one of a more compact nature. This, I believe, is the first bike I ever built up from scratch. It was done inside the co-op, using whatever I could find, and not knowing the difference between road and mtb gearing.
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Last night I took my friend (car less) to help in errands. Nearby was a goodwill rummage store where I found this vintage Japan made all leather camera travel bag. Guessing 1960's era. $3 including discount. Today was install and show for the road.
High quality, rigid leather, the front also has two zippers that slightly expand the case. Interior is lined with adjustable dividers. No mods needed to mount -strapped it on and go. Though I'd like to reconfigure it to mount less the straps. Realizing rain is not kind to finished leather, I stuffed inside one of the storage pockets a plastic covering bag. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a49ca60615.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0c8c75fa85.jpg |
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...39feb2ebb.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bdfff84d6.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...73349c92b.jpeg I started stripping the paint off of my Bottecchia this week. I brushed on the stripper followed by a gentle scrapping. Afterwards I sanded with a Scotch bright pad soaked in acetone. This seems to work well. I have to do a second application on the stubborn areas. |
1948 Raleigh-Lenton Clubman, "Patina Preservation" Project
I posted a while back with a photo of what I thought was a 1949 Raleigh Clubman frameset that I was going to buy from the "Shirt-tail Organizer" (STO) of the Lake Pepin 3-speed Tour, Jon Sharratt. Well, we did the deal, and in the process of taking my "before" photos, I discovered by the serial number that this is actually a 1948 Raleigh-Lenton Clubman frameset. https://i.imgur.com/asG95aB.png Not a big deal, and it doesn't change any of my plans for this build, but I was surprised that the two years' models are practically identical. https://i.imgur.com/SVqJQpE.png Anyway, my plan for this build is to remove the rough surface rust, and chemically stabilize the incredible patina on this 70 year-old bicycle, before spraying it with several coats of clear enamel that I can polish to a brilliant finish. https://i.imgur.com/teKYFZ1.png I've been doing a lot of research into this relatively recent practice, and I find it fascinating. The end result is a kind of abstract-impressionist art form that highlights what Grant Petersen calls "beausage" (Beauty from Usage), paying homage to the history of the bike, instead of eliminating and covering it up to make it "good-as-new". https://i.imgur.com/7TuiwWn.png The details in this old hand-built Reynolds 531 frameset seem extraordinary in this era of tig-welded mass production bikes. I mean, look at these fancy cutaway lugs: https://i.imgur.com/2YU9Aex.png You just don't see this kind of craftsmanship anymore from the large manufacturers. This is now the province of high-dollar bespoke frame makers. In order to emphasize this patina, and make this a nice-riding art project, I am using modern, black-colored hardware wherever possible, to keep the eye focused on the historic frameset. Not to worry, though... The drivetrain is Sturmey Archer 3-speed, in black 700c wheels from a local company called "Handsome Cycles". https://i.imgur.com/YvA8Uz2.png This means dealing with what I consider the "Raleigh Curse"; the 26 tpi threading on vital components such as the bottom bracket and headset. https://i.imgur.com/MpeIyAm.png Believe it or not, I plan to use modern sealed-bearing hardware in these applications. I guess we'll see if I can actually make that work. By the end of this weekend, I plan to have the frame all cleaned-up and the first coats of clear applied, so I can evaluate whether I want to continue down this path. More updates to follow... . |
71 PX 10. Hopefully I can post pictures soon.
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Originally Posted by ryansu
(Post 20658343)
@DQRider that is a very cool besauge project you have going there, I wonder if a threadless bb like the one Velo Orange sells here would allow you to get around the proprietary Raleigh threading? I have no idea about the Headset but I am interested to see what you come up with,...
Way ahead of you there, @ryansu . Here's my email notification from Velo Orange from November 8th: "This shipment includes the following items: Item #DescriptionQty BB-0005-118Threadless Bottom Bracket - 118mm Thank you for your business and we look forward to serving you in the future! Velo Orange" ... and I think I have solved the headset as well. Origin8, black, sealed cartridge slots right in on the bottom. Up top, I've had to get a bit creative, using the Origin8 "cup and cone" over the cartridge bearing, but the threaded pieces over that are the 26 tpi originals. Those will have to get painted, I think. It makes quite a "stack". But it will do until I come up with something better. . |
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bf2ae64c5.jpeg Just finished this one. It was pretty rough to start out, but it cleaned up nicely. |
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