Presta valve nut
 

Hi,

Rear wheel in my new wheelset is assymetric. I found that nut on Presta valve looks let say "stupid".

Is it neccessary to use that part? I do not have problem with pumping up tire without nut. To stop "rattling" I want to use heat shrink.

What do you think? Is there any reason that I should use it?

Have you got any idea what that thing weighs?

Probably too much :D

Are you talking about the stem nut?

Toss it.

I prefer to buy tubes with no threads on the stem. Most presta inflators slide over a smooth stem more easily. No threads means no nut.

I find them useful on tubeless installations.

Why would their be any rattling? Do your rims have holes sized for Schraeder valves?

No, rims are Presta only. To be honest it was my first idea, maybe it will not be a problem..

I find them useful when filling the tube, and I get some rattling without them, so I leave them on there (to the other person's question, my wheels are also presta only, but there is enough of a gap that it can rattle). On my TT wheels with smooth valvestems (latex), I use some electrical tape to keep them from rattling.

People removing them for "weight savings" crack me up. But as usual, do whatever works for you. :thumb:

Ya think?

Yes, in this case, but ask my wife.

About your nuts?

Thanks, but i'll pass.

Looking for an issue that doesn't exist.

One time, my wife got a flat. Some guy, acting the expert, stopped, took charge, and changed her tube. After he left ("my work here is done, little lady"), she got maybe 50 yards before the tube went completely flat again. She called me to come get her and when I got there, I discovered that he had cranked the valve stem nut down so tight that it split the valve stem from the tube.

A very common occurrence.

I carry a nut in my seat pack, just in case I were to ever need one. Haven't yet but it's there (I often help others and some have some funky set ups so you never know). I figure my rotational weight resistance if far less if it sits in the seat pack. :D

That nut is a liability thing. It prevents the valve creeping outwards by centrifugal force at very high speed and bursting the tube.

lol😂

Maybe it's the wheel that looks stupid.

The nut might look better on an asymmetric wheel. (sorry)

I like liquid electrical tape for stopping the stem rattle.

So, you're on the side of the road and just changed a flat.
As a purist, you don't use a CO2 inflator; you've sentenced yourself to this little 8" wanna-be pump that rides in your jersey pocket and requires 1,832 strokes to put air in a 700x23 so the velominati dudes don't snicker at you when they fly by on the A-ride at 26mph.
And you finally got that damned clincher tire's wire over the rim without pinch-flatting the third tube or breaking the unbreakable blue plastic tire lever because you had to use four levers and stand on the last one or cracking the carbon wheel you bought from your dental hygienist.
So you wiggle and jiggle and twist and wobble and try to get the damn head of the baby pump onto the valve stem far enough to seal but it keeps psssffting all the air out the sides and nothing goes into the damn tube which still might have a new hole in it cause you didn't rub a friggin cotton ball all over the inside of the kevlar chili dark matter advanced composition tire. Mainly, because you keep pushing the valve stem down into the 70mm carbon fakie aero shell of a wheel and it disappears down the damn hole and the air is going pssssfttt pssftfttft out the side and suddenly....
Oh... that's what those little nuts are for. I just chucked over in the grass somewhere....

Maybe you don't but I do.

BTW, I use Zipp tube and the stem is not threaded.

If you need any spare nuts... I have a bunch I don't need..

This...

I run latex tubes. Meaning often a low starting pressure. I'd rather not plunge the stem into the tire/wheel inserting the pump head. So, enter the reliable nut.

Does anyone make a ceramic coated aero nut?