Di2 questions
 

Hi all, I have ultegra Di2 on my road bike and I have the SM-BTR2 battery. Which battery do I need to get so I can set up synchronized shifting? And I would like to use my iPad with the etap software over Bluetooth, what would I need to accomplish that? Thanks!

Awesome! I as well also have UDI2 (and now am playing with synchro shift) on one of my road bikes and love it. You would need the BT-DN110 and assuming you have 6870 (or whatever the 6800 UDI2 number is) you should be able to go into E-Tube software and set it up (though you might need to update your software which you should generally do from time to time anyway) for the wireless E-Tube set up you need the EW-WU111 (they made another one EW-WU101 but I think they stopped) and a short E-Tube wire. I set mine up through my seat tube and just plugged straight into the battery. However I think they recommend doing it externally.

I an pretty sure the SM-BTR2 is non-compatible with Synchro shift but I am not 100% on it. I know it is not compatible with the Wireless D-Fly unit. Also one last useful note USE THE E-TUBE WIRE TOOL (TL-EW02), pliers and other objects are rough on the wires and the tool works so well I see no need not to use it. We are talking DI2 not Tourney here ; )

I am a geek so that is why I went wireless but honestly I didn't really need it, I don't feel the need to play with my DI2 set up often it is just fun to have the option. Not trying to discourage you just putting that out there.

Thanks vegan, I was pretty sure my current battery wouldn’t allow synchro shift. My battery is in my seatpost, could I put the wireless unit in series with the wire that connects to the battery? Oh and I do have the little tool but I found that it was easier to just use my fingers. I was skeptical at first about di2 but after having it for a couple thousand miles I can’t imagine life without it. I have 2753 miles on it so far and I’ve not had to adjust it ever, not one single time. And I’ve only charged the battery twice and both times it was still at 50%!

The wireless unit can go in series with the battery. That is how mine is set up, inside the seat tube, wrapped in some foam so it doesn't rattle around.

The components don't care where they are plugged in. As long as everything has a way to connect back to the battery it will all work.


-Tim-

I am thinking of doing the same thing and my current battery is in the seat tube. My bike is Ti and I am wondering if there are any issues in putting the wireless unit in series with the battery in the seat tube?

I was wondering this too. Will being in the seat tube of a ti bike affect the Bluetooth signal?

I’ve no clue as to the signal damping qualities of titanium, but the rub is if it doesn’t work, it’s a ***** to trouble shoot.

Thus and on a metal bike, I’d likely be putting the WiFi unit right off the A Junction.

There will be no issues with putting the wireless unit inside the seat tube of any bike. Steel, aluminum, titanium, carbon - it doesn't matter. It will work fine.

There are people who run them inside the stem, inside the downtube, shoved up into the bottom bracket area, etc. It isn't a problem.

Just leave the wire from B junction to the wireless unit long enough so that the seatpost can be removed without having the wire drop down the seat tube. The end can be secured to the frame with a piece of tape for servicing the battery, saddle or seatpost off the bike. I had to reboot my system by disconnecting the battery once so removing the battery is not out of the question.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ic5cc08qio...16.sm.jpg?dl=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/v6f6ys3lb1...18.sm.jpg?dl=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vvz0tpfghq...19.sm.jpg?dl=1



-Tim-

TimothyH I like the stem idea, but how would you get it in there?

Stems, bars and forks now being designed for Di2 cabling.

Here’s a quote from the Pro Vibe review

“The Vibe handlebar has an exit hole at the rear which allows the battery cable to travel from the bar, through the stem body, and out of the hole you see above the steerer clamp in the photo. This means that if you use a fork steerer-mounted Di2 battery, everything is hidden from view.”

I have a a Ti bike and wireless is in the seat tube and no real issues. Now I do tend to be close to the bike when doing it and haven't been able to do it from a significant distance like say a bluetooth speaker but I don't really mind.

Mine is in the seat tube.

If I had to do it over again I would have saved the $85 and not used wireless. I never use it.


-Tim-

i have the new 9170 di2 setup with battery and ant wireless unit in seatpost and it works great. I love the wireless setup because I dont have a Microsoft computer, only apple, and shimano is not supported on apple products unless you have wireless connection and an app on your iphone or ipad. Also the new shimano shifters have extra buttons on top and with the wireless I can control my garmin which is quite handy.

di2 is awesome for its 100% consistency and crisp shifts with only the touch of a button like shifter. shifting to the large chainring on my 105 shifters now seems quite different.

I was wondering what improvements they had made. I have an old (very old) windows machine but I wonder if it will even boot up. I only have an iPhone and iPad that’s why I wanted wireless. I had my di2 on a carbon bike for over 2700 miles and I didn’t have to adjust it one single time. In fact, when I moved it to my new ti bike I had to look up on the internet how to adjust it lol. It’s so easy I fine tuned it today without even stopping. 2800 miles on it now and I’ve only charged it twice and both times it was still at 50%

Keep in mind that as of January 2018, the iPhone version of E-Tube does not have error check.

Error check requires the iPad version.

There was a thread recently.


-Tim-

[QUOTE=MikeOK;20192911]I was wondering what improvements they had made.

not sure of the improvements because this is the first di2 I've owned. I know the new Ultegra shifters have the buttons on top that can be set up to do lots of different things (shift derailleurs, control lights, control garmin etc.) this is very handy when riding on the hoods or controlling garming in the winter with gloves on. I also think there are weight savings over previous models. I think software is compatible with anything 6000 model and up.

I am also running 9170. I went with Pro Vibe carbon bars which have excellent internal routing. I run the bar-end junction box and placed the Bluetooth unit in the bar end just in past the junction. Pretty clean that way.