How's my self bike fit so far? (pics + video) (would love constructive criticism!)
 

Hi there, I know how important bike fits are - professional ones, they can get pretty expensive... Since I'm only a casual rider, I thought I'd learn the process from the ground up by making tweaks and putting in the research. Here are images of fits done well that I took hints from (along with many Steve Hogg articles and forum posts):

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ea39ac652b.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...40f3190b94.png

Here's what I've got so far (best angle I could manage):

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...507d958cd0.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...45ac02bfc3.jpg

https://imgur.com/a/AXLEnzM

^ a link to a 25 second clip of my pedal stroke and position

Here's the adjustments I've made so far:
- increased stock stem from 100mm (+7 degrees) to 120mm (-17 degrees). Not quite ready to cut the steerer tube
- changed stock saddle from [junk] to Selle SMP Dynamic (-2 degrees nose down)
- made many, many, many seat height and cleat adjustments
- adjusted the fore/aft of saddle back about 5mm from a neutral/middle position (seat post has an added 20mm of setback)

From what I understand, a toe dipper like myself is best suited with a bit more setback to counteract the hips being pushed forward on the saddle each pedal stroke. This puts me a bit behind the KOPS, which is the trade off (fully understanding KOPS is a starting point, not a hard and fast rule).

Please let me know what you think. I'm open to changing and testing anything that would improve my position. Thanks in advance. Bike is a Canyon Endurace AL Disc 7.0

Best tip is to go for a long ride and see whether you have any significantly greater hamstring vs quadricep pain to check your saddle setback.
I cant see any rocking or "knee snap" from your footage.
You could potentially move your saddle down/forward, (and drop your bars at the same time) but it is hard to tell from your footage

My take on saddle set back is that it should be possible and easy to engage the glutes and ham string muscles at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Lemond suggests that we should pretend to scrape mud off the shoe, or some other substance[, at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Carbon fiber boy, on this forum, suggests that we should draw the foot back into the heel cup of the shoe at the bottom of the pedal stroke. This visualization seems to work a bit better for me. I would say, judging only by eye, your saddle it a bit too far back but only you can judge that.

Funny, I have the same thought - back too far on the saddle. Also, I think you'll be more comfortable if you bend your elbows in all positions.

Looks good to me.

Looks good to me as well. It’s fashionable to move your saddle further forward and up for aerodynamics and hard smashing, but I would say that has many associated costs, especially to beginners or non-racers.

100% agree that the glutes and hamstrings should be used as much as possible, especially when climbing. I also like driving with the heel cup by dropping my heels and focusing on spinning a circle. If you cannot drop your heels and spin up fast at the same time, your saddle is probably too high, but I don’t see any evidence of that.