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-   -   Shimano Ultegra R6800 vs R8000 (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=1191913)

illjustride 01-15-20 06:22 AM

Shimano Ultegra R6800 vs R8000
 
Anyone ride them, do you notice any differences between the two? Curious as I'm in the market for a new set to go with my R8000's

Bah Humbug 01-15-20 06:57 AM

New set of what? There are a number of improvements to many of the components in the set, and I'd want a substantial discount to go with 6800 over R8000, or even over R7000. The exception would be the cassette and maybe the crank and chain.

illjustride 01-15-20 09:22 AM


Originally Posted by Bah Humbug (Post 21285003)
New set of what? There are a number of improvements to many of the components in the set, and I'd want a substantial discount to go with 6800 over R8000, or even over R7000. The exception would be the cassette and maybe the crank and chain.

I should have been more specific. The R6800 pedals vs R8000 pedals.

Rides4Beer 01-15-20 09:31 AM

Never rode the 6800 pedals, but have about 10k miles on a set of 8000 pedals with no issues.

tedder987 01-15-20 10:12 AM

My 6800 pedals have about 18k miles on them without issues (and I am over 200 lbs). I doubt the 8000's are significantly better. I would get the 6800s if there is a significant price differential, and the 8000s if the prices are close

noodle soup 01-15-20 10:30 AM

I have 6800 and 9100 pedals. Other than a few grams, I can't tell any difference.

burnthesheep 01-15-20 03:18 PM

I know the topic was pedals. But I got a steal on a new-take-off R9100 crank, and the ramping and weight on that thing is stellar compared to my old 105 5800 crank I had. Like light years better. I went ahead and got R8000 FD, RD, and cassette also. I can feel some of the shift magic of R8000 that way, but miss out on the shifters. The most expensive and toughest parts to change over. But, still super satisfied.

I have the 105 or RS500 version of pedals from 3 or 4 years ago. They still feel fine. A few grams. I run speedplays on the TT bike for the aero and reduction in stack.

WhyFi 01-15-20 04:32 PM


Originally Posted by burnthesheep (Post 21285684)
I can feel some of the shift magic of R8000 that way, but miss out on the shifters. The most expensive and toughest parts to change over.

You can get the levers for ~$250 in the states - that's not that bad.

burnthesheep 01-16-20 09:10 AM


Originally Posted by WhyFi (Post 21285760)
You can get the levers for ~$250 in the states - that's not that bad.

It's the mech cable routing on the aero bike that's the pain. I just did housing and cabled it about 6 months ago. No desire to have to re-run the cables just yet.

Perhaps on the next go-round I will.

kcjc 01-16-20 12:52 PM

The pedals felt the same

Kimmo 01-16-20 03:08 PM


Originally Posted by burnthesheep (Post 21286553)
It's the mech cable routing on the aero bike that's the pain. I just did housing and cabled it about 6 months ago. No desire to have to re-run the cables just yet.

Um, once a bike has cables in it the hard part is done. Just run sleeve through it over the old cable before you remove it.

Dean V 01-16-20 06:26 PM


Originally Posted by illjustride (Post 21284982)
Anyone ride them, do you notice any differences between the two? Curious as I'm in the market for a new set to go with my R8000's

I am curious for the reason why you asked?
What difference could you hope to find between a perfectly good pedal (R6800) and the next model?

WhyFi 01-16-20 06:32 PM


Originally Posted by Dean V (Post 21287505)
I am curious for the reason why you asked?
What difference could you hope to find between a perfectly good pedal (R6800) and the next model?

Moar watts, obv.

Bah Humbug 01-17-20 02:44 PM


Originally Posted by WhyFi (Post 21287514)
Moar watts, obv.

Better bearings should account for at least a few milliwatts of drag.

Greatestalltime 01-23-20 08:42 AM

Had 6700 four 6 years??(about) thousands and thousands of miles. No problems


I had 8000 for a year and cracked the drive side crank arm. It was replaced under warranty. The 8000 was 172.5 vs the 6700 at 170. I’m not sure if that was a factor.

Also broke dura ace 9000 within a week of the 8000 on my only other bike and it was a week before vacation.

Kimmo 01-23-20 05:29 PM

Yeah, not a fan of the bonded construction introduced on 9000...

illjustride 01-23-20 08:51 PM

Damn. How many watts you putting out. I broke an Ultegra 6800 a couple years ago and upgraded to the R8000 Crankset. So far so good. I'm a fan of Shimano despite that happened.


Originally Posted by Greatestalltime (Post 21296434)
Had 6700 four 6 years??(about) thousands and thousands of miles. No problems


I had 8000 for a year and cracked the drive side crank arm. It was replaced under warranty. The 8000 was 172.5 vs the 6700 at 170. I’m not sure if that was a factor.

Also broke dura ace 9000 within a week of the 8000 on my only other bike and it was a week before vacation.


MinnMan 01-23-20 11:42 PM


Originally Posted by Kimmo (Post 21297230)
Yeah, not a fan of the bonded construction introduced on 9000...

I loved my R9000 pedals and I miss them badly. I upgraded to power meters - Favero Assioma's. I have no complaints about the F.A. s as power meters, but as pedals, the R9000s were SO MUCH NICER.....

Kimmo 01-24-20 12:19 AM


Originally Posted by MinnMan (Post 21297541)
I loved my R9000 pedals

I was responding to the post about broken cranks.

Greatestalltime 01-24-20 01:58 AM


Originally Posted by illjustride (Post 21297429)
Damn. How many watts you putting out. I broke an Ultegra 6800 a couple years ago and upgraded to the R8000 Crankset. So far so good. I'm a fan of Shimano despite that happened.

I don’t have a power meter. I cracked both of them on the same hill. It’s probably only about 8% to 10%, and I was pushing a pretty high gear about as hard as I could.

My replacement 8000 and 9100(they couldn’t get a 9000) have held up about 6 months. Those both failed at around a year. The crack was identical on both. Maybe a coincidence


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