Replacing bearing vs whole bracket
 

Giant TCR C3 2012(possible 2008)
truvativ elita gxp crank
Sleeve says BSA 43-05 (diameter/bearing mm?)
I'm learning how to service and repair my own bikes.
I've got a wobble in my bearing and I removed the seal/covers and the bearings are looking rough. I can either replace the whole sealed bearing or replace the whole bottom bracket.. the problem is I can't find matches for either that I would be positive the would work. I perused the threads and couldn't find anything specific to my issue.

Any help is appreciated.

This
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...cb574a7be2.png

Thanks for the info! I viewed this one on Amazon but it didn't quite "say" that it would fit. So, if it's same brand/model it will still work even if it didn't have the same 43-05?

BSA indicates it's screwed in rather than press fit. It seems to come with spacers, fits either 68mm or 73mm bottom bracket shells. Those, AFAIK are the relevant specs. Don't know what those other numbers mean. Hopefully someone else can clarify.

GXP (the spindle interface) and BSA (the threading) are all you need to know. The spacers are for resolving chainline discrepancies, usually on mountain bikes that have a variety of rear axle standards now. Follow the instructions for use of the wavy washer and seals when reinserting the crank spindle.

An English threaded GXP bottom bracket is what you need for that crankset. The 43-05 is not a relevant number in terms of the bottom bracket or the crankset.

You can press out the old bearing cartridges from the BB shells and find the bearing numbers that you can match up from most bearing suppliers. It is a bit of a PITA and you need some tools that will work for this such as a bearing puller, or some bolt sockets of the right size that can be used to remove and install the bearings or possibly some auto supply stores may loan out the bearing tools. To make it a little easier put the BB in the freezer for at least a couple hours, have your tools and some boiling water ready when you take them out of the freezer and work fast by pouring the hot water over the aluminum shell of the BB trying as much as possible to keep it away from the bearing and start trying to get the bearing out. This helps to make it a little easier to remove the bearing. You may only save half of what a new BB would cost plus the extra time needed searching for the correct cartridge bearings and removal/replace time so something to consider. There is also this place that sells the DIY bearing kit but only a few $ less than a full BB and not sure what the quality of their bearings are. https://www.enduroforkseals.com/prod...OBKGXPCSB.html

All of what Crankycrank has posted is correct but not worth the time or trouble, particularly if you are new to bike repair and don't have experience replacing bearing cartridges. Pay the $32 and buy the complete cartridge shown above. You will need a suitable bottom bracket tool (Park BB-69.2 or similar) in any event. Also, be aware the drive side cup is left-hand threaded so it removes clockwise.