Review/Check My Build - Low-Trail Soma Fog Cutter
Hi folks, looking into building my first full bike from the frame up. Damn this stuff is expensive. Basic parts list below, anyone see anything I should be concerned about? I love the Fog Cutter frame and found at least one good review of running it with Soma's low-trail fork to let it carry a front load.
Frame: Soma Fog Cutter https://www.somafab.com/archives/pro...tter-frame-set Fork: Soma Champs-Elysees 700c Low Trail Disc https://www.somafab.com/archives/pro...c-touring-fork Crankset: Shimano 105 r7000 52-36T Silver https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ.../FC-R7000.html Cassette: Shimano 105 r7000 11-32T https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ.../CS-R7000.html Front Derailleur: Shimano 105 r7000 Black https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...D-R7000-F.html Rear Derailleur: Shimano 105 r7000 GS Black https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...-R7000-GS.html Headset: Tange/IRD Needle Blaster (currently out of stock, but similar would be desirable) https://www.rivbike.com/collections/...r-roller-drive Stem: Could use advice on this, proper fit will be a question. My Surly currently angles up. Handlebar: Brevet Rando Bar (Ergo) https://www.somafab.com/archives/pro...-bar-ergo-bend Handlebar Wrap: ???? Leather ???? probably black in color. Brakes: Shimano 105 r7000 Hydraulic Disc https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...R-R7070-F.html https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...R-R7070-R.html Brake Rotors: Shimano 105 r7000 Rotor https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...0/SM-RT70.html Shift/Brake Levers: Shimano 105 r7000 hydraulic disc https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...T-R7020-R.html https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...T-R7020-L.html Pedals: Probably Shimano M540 black https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-PD-M5...ano+spd+pedals Bottom Bracket Shimano 105 r7000 BB https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...CBottomBracket Seatpost: ******************** no strong opinions, black, fits, not expensive Saddle: Will probably try the Cambium C17 cutout version. https://www.brooksengland.com/en_us/...her-black.html Wheels: 32h 650b something. Pacenti Brevets? Velocity Ailerons? Velocity Wheels - Hand Made in USA https://pacenticycledesign.com/produ...1speed-shimano Chain: Whatever works Fenders: VO 700c fluted? VO 650b zeppelin? Silver. https://velo-orange.com/collections/...n-fenders-650b https://velo-orange.com/collections/...m-fenders-700c Front Hub Dynamo: SON Hub Thru-Axle silver anodized (need help w/ sizing) Rear Hub: ???? Shimano 105 r7000 rear? https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ.../FH-R7070.html Tires: Front Rack: VO Rando Rack https://builtbyswift.com/shop/velo-o...ated-decaleur/ Front Bag: Probably can't afford it yet, but likely a Swift Ozette. |
do they recommend that fork on that frame? I didn't see any A-C measurement, but granted I didn't look too hard
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Originally Posted by unterhausen
(Post 20751231)
do they recommend that fork on that frame? I didn't see any A-C measurement, but granted I didn't look too hard
https://drandalls.wordpress.com/2018...il-fog-cutter/ https://drandalls.wordpress.com/2019...cutter-update/ Also A-C on the fork is 398mm axle-to-crown. |
Originally Posted by perspiration
(Post 20751214)
Front Hub Dynamo: SON Hub Thru-Axle silver anodized (need help w/ sizing)
Rear Hub: ???? Shimano 105 r7000 rear? https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ.../FH-R7070.html Also, you listed flat mount brakes, and the frame/fork has IS mounts. Not sure there's an adapter to bridge that. Also, 47mm tires might be too fat for frame+fenders. |
Originally Posted by tyrion
(Post 20751236)
Frame/fork take quick release skewers. Can these TA hubs be adapted for that?
Also, you listed flat mount brakes, and the frame/fork has IS mounts. Not sure there's an adapter to bridge that. Also, 47mm tires might be too fat for frame+fenders. The fat tires is a concern of mine. I'd really like the fat WTBs but may have to find an alternative to fit the fenders. |
Couple thoughts:
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the TA dynohub is a lot more expensive and you would need an adapter. But it's possible that future-proofing is worth the extra money to you. I certainly prefer TA forks for disc.
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Originally Posted by kingston
(Post 20751590)
Couple thoughts:
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Gearing is super personal so what works for me might not work for you. I also assume you are planning to use this bike for randonneuring since you posted in this forum. I like narrow spacing right around 70", a high around 100" and a low around 30". If I were building that bike, I would almost certainly go with a triple chainset and bar-end shifters to get both the narrow spacing and the low gears. I like bar end shifters better than brifters for long distance, which is also a personal preference thing. With an 11 speed double I could live with a 46-30 and a 12-25 cassette, or I could make a 46-34 work with a lot of grunt up the big hills. A 52T chainring isn't necessary for long distance unless you are either really fast or a low-cadence masher. I can spin up to around 40mph at 100", and I'm fine coasting after that, so any gear bigger than that just won't get used. I also don't like the aesthetic of the shimano hollowtech chainsets on a steel frame (I have one and don't like it), and have had much better luck with square taper bottom brackets, so that's what I would go with on a new build.
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Cool, thank you. This is my first time trying to do this component by component, so I sorta just went with 105 across the board to get the conversation going and am fine tuning from there.. Do you have other makes of crankset that you'd recommend I check out?
*Edit* you are correct this would be for Randonneuring. I'm trying to build something slightly sportier than my current commuter cross check build which WORKS (I did a SR series last year on it) but could be better. |
A 46 tooth big chain ring has made me a lot happier with a compact crank. I use SRAM mtb rear derailleur, because you can shift it with road shifters and it will take a big cassette in the rear. I always thought that 36 tooth cassette was overkill, but I end up in it all the time. You can get the 105 derailleur to shift something like that with a Wolf Tooth hanger extender, or a 34 by adjusting the b limit screw.
I would find out what the Seattle randos are typically riding. My impression is that the mountains out there are somewhat flatter than those on the east coast. I suppose there was a time when I could have used a 52-11 gear, but it's generally better to coast at that kind of speed. Plenty of time to pedal on a randonnee. |
I like fizik’s microtex tape — a leathery look but synthetic, and comfortable in all weather. Fairly thin but not rock hard, comes in classic black as well as a variety of colors. |
That sounds like a bike I'd like to try
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Originally Posted by antimonysarah
(Post 20752116)
I like fizik’s microtex tape — a leathery look but synthetic, and comfortable in all weather. Fairly thin but not rock hard, comes in classic black as well as a variety of colors. |
Originally Posted by perspiration
(Post 20751981)
... Do you have other makes of crankset that you'd recommend I check out?
If you want a double with brifters there’s a whole thread on 46-30 chainsets that you should check out, but you’ll have to trade low gears for narrow spacing if you use a wide cassette. Not important to some people, but I’ll take narrow spacing over low gears every day of the week. Since a triple can do both, that’s what I run on my long-distance bikes. If you want a triple with brifters, your only new options are Tiagara or Microshift. Both perfectly adequate but pretty low on the bling factor. Of those two, I’d get Microshift because I’ve stopped buying anything Shimano since they started shutting down retail imports to the US. If you could find an old campy triple setup like a racing triple or the recently discontinued Campy Athena triple 11-speed groupset, that would be a great option for a long-distance bike IMO. |
You know since posting yesterday and actually figuring out how gearing works, I'm considering something kind of crazy.
Basically I did the whole SR series on my Cross Check last year, which was stock-geared at 48/36 up front and 11-28 in the back. I found myself definitely wishing I had a bigger gear in the back, but for the most part I never ever used the 48t ring, I just kept to the 36. As such, I think a 1x build might actually be doable and even suitable for me, if I went for something like 36t up front and 11-32 in the back. I'm less concerned about needing a bigger granny gear and more concerned about topping out at 36-11, so maybe even a 38t / 11-32t would suit me. Curious if anyone thinks this is a stupid idea or not. |
Originally Posted by perspiration
(Post 20752538)
so maybe even a 38t / 11-32t would suit me. Curious if anyone thinks this is a stupid idea or not.
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I looked at going 1x and couldn't talk myself into it. There's no way I would be happy with a low gear that big and I didn't want to go with something like a 50 tooth cog in the back. But it does sound like it might work for you. I stick with a 2x vs. a 3x because of the relative simplicity. And the truth is that I only need the 2 chain rings. I did one year of rando with an mtb crank, 42/28 chain rings. 32 tooth in the back. That worked great. I really wish someone made a road crank like that other than at the high-end
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Originally Posted by perspiration
(Post 20752538)
...for the most part I never ever used the 48t ring, I just kept to the 36...
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Pulled the trigger on the frameset today. Final build is gonna look something like this:
Part Type Frame Soma Fog Cutter Fork Soma Champs Elysees 700c Low Trail Disc Fork Seating/Handling/Accessories Handlebars - Soma Brevet Randonneur Bar - Ergo Bend. 44cm Bar tape/Grips - Fizik Performance Bar Tape Black Stem - TBD based on fit--try out a few Saddle - Brooks Cambium C17 Carved Black Seatpost - Silver 27.2 Setback Pedals - Shimano M540 Black- Fenders - Velo Orange Zeppelin Fenders 650bx52 silver Rack - Velo Orange Randonneur Rack w/Integrated Decalleur Bag - TBD Dyno Light - IQ-XS (70 lux) silver Stopping Brake Levers - sram rival 2x11 Brake Calipers - trp spyre Brake Rotors - Shimano XT IceTech Centerlock (2) cables/housing - Included w/brakes Drivetrain Cassette - SRAM PG1130 Cassette 11 Speed 11-32 Teeth Chain - KMC--depends on drivetrain speeds Cranks/chainring - 26, 40 172.5 Sugino XD2 Front Derailleur - SRAM Rival 31.8mm Front Derailleur, Rear Derailleur - SRAM Rival 1 Rear Derailleur Bearings Headset - IRD NeedL BlastR Bottom Bracket - UN-55 Rolling Rims - Recommend Pacenti Brevets--Strong, build up well, half the price and 15g lighter. 32 hole. Front Hub - Son 28 polished silver Rear Hub - White Industries CLD in Polished Silver 32 hole. Some of the best bearings you can get, and excellent engagement in the freehub. Can do a Sram XDR Driver for 10t small cog Spokes - DT Swiss Competition (2.0-1.8-2.0) Double butted spokes, Brass spoke nipples. Silver. (64) Rim Tape - Stans No-Tubes Rim tape--Even if you aren't running tubeless, this is the recommended tape. Tires - Compass Babyshoe Pass 640bx42 Tubes/Valves - Q-Tubes 650bx35-43 (2) |
Very nice choices, but double check that chainset. Don't think it works with 11 speed. |
Originally Posted by kingston
(Post 20760106)
Very nice choices, but double check that chainset. Don't think it works with 11 speed. Was a bit bummed to go mechanical discs instead of hydraulic but holy ****, hydraulic shifter levers are expensive. |
Hmmm... A couple of comments.
I thought everyone was moving to flat mount brakes. Your Soma frame requires some kind of an adapter for the brakes. I assume they're available, but it is just a bit surprising. The handlebars you've picked out are 25.4 bars. Almost all the 1 1/8" stems take 31.8 bars. They'll be much easier to deal with. I've come to prefer flat-top "aero" bars, and find them comfortable for riding. I do object to the "ergo" bends, but don't really like the "compact" either. Whatever you choose, they should have a tight upper bend, but I'd prefer the rest of the shape to be a smooth curve with flats at the bottom. |
Originally Posted by CliffordK
(Post 20760222)
I thought everyone was moving to flat mount brakes. Your Soma frame requires some kind of an adapter for the brakes. I assume they're available, but it is just a bit surprising.
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@Spoonrobot, re the two quotes below, do these suggestions reflect first hand experience with this particular fork and rack? I don't have that fork, but your experience certainly echoes mine.
Originally Posted by Spoonrobot
(Post 20760172)
You're also going to need something to bridge the gap between the front fender daruma bolt going down from the fork crown and the bolt going up through the fender itself. ...
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/191376...-1/s-l1000.jpg
Originally Posted by Spoonrobot
(Post 20760172)
The VO rack is going to sit high above the tire. I'd consider going with something that has more adjust-ability like the rawland rack or Compass UD-1 or similar. This may not concern you but I disliked the way it looked aesthetically and the load felt weird up high as it was.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4913/...e47eeeec_b.jpg This photo shows the modification my friend @gugie made to the second of the racks I have. He extended the legs by a couple centimeters, according to the measurements I sent him (in retrospect, I wish I'd told him to make the legs 1 cm longer, since this looks strange with the sloping top tube on this bike). |
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