Front Panniers + kickstand = bar flop
 

How do you guys deal with bar flop when your bike is on a kickstand?

No problem on an unloaded bike, but when my LHT is loaded up with 60 lbs of gear the bars wont stay straight.

I have a Plestcher kick stand which works great, but I typically either lay the bike down or lean it up against something.

I have a bungee cord I wrap around the front wheel and the downtube, but it doesnt hold.

I thought about drilling a hole clear through headtube and through the steerer tube, sideways, and using some sort of cotter pin. Would be a small hole, maybe 1/8".

Anybody see a problem, structurally, with a small hole like this? I wouldn't think it would make a difference but would like to hear some more 'educated' opinions.

Any other solutions?

I use a Clickstand with my LHT. Both wheels remain on the ground. In order for the clickstand to work properly the front brake is applied with a furnished brake lock. If the front wheel is turned, there is no adverse impact (pun intended: like the bike falling over).

As Gus suggested above, give some type of brake lock a try. I used a velcro type strap, others go with bungee/rubber band.

b) If your plestcher/ESGE double leg is lifting the front wheel off the ground due to only using rear panniers, then use the bungee/strap for the rear brake.

c) Consider cutting the kickstand. Cut it so that the wheel (front or rear) still gets off the ground on pavement/hardpack, but will still settle in on soft stuff.

d) Double leg stands can still fall over if the ground is too soft, including setting up on hot 2nd world pavement.

e) I'm not an Engineer, but would never consider drilling the headtube/steerer tube. I like what few teeth I have left.

f) I removed my double leg stand and gave it a s a gift to a bike mechanic on tour (in Almaty KZ I think), and continued on using a collapsing hiking pole to prop my bike up. Exact principle as the clickstand.

Velo orange has a front wheel stabilizer

How often is your bike fully loaded? I'm guessing that about 70% of the rides you do on that bike won't be with a load. If so, why change something that works 70% of the time? Just use your kickstand as it is for the unloaded rides, and then find something else to lean your bike against during the 30% of the time it is loaded.

An old style Rhode Gear "Flick Stand" would work if you dont have any fenders. Otherwise, I use a classic Toestrap to both lock the wheel and keep it straight. This works with fenders, as well.

When needed, I use a velcro strap.

I've often wondered why a built in wheel stabilizer is not an option on any bike. Needed in lots of situations.

there's a fancy front rack that has it's own kickstand, but you don't want to go buying a new front rack, do you? I think it's a tubus, but could be very wrong on that.

Koga Miyata bikes have had a front rack mounted Kickstand, second one..
But now Tubus has an accessory kit to do that with any of their low racks

otherwise lock the front wheel , with a toestrap around the downtube and wheel.

A very Practical solution for bikes which have shopping racks, baskets and carriers attached to the front of the bike.

This prevents the handlebars flopping to one side when you have parked the bike on a kickstand. It is designed to work perfectly in conjunction with the Hebie Bipod Bigfoot Centre stand (see our e-bay shop!) but will work just as well with all other kickstands or even with no kickstand at all.

When your steering flops around loose you are likely to have your bike fall over - annoying, dangerous and inconvenient - get a Hebie Steering Stabilizer - they are easy to fit and provide added saftey!

Will fit downtubes upto a diameter of 62mm - including ovalised types

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Bicycle-Steeri...a023a0fde9c4c7

I need to get one of those clickstands! I keep forgetting about it. I'm sure the riding season will remind me here in a month or so...

Not sure where you can get them, but this is what I was talking about

http://www.ortliebusa.com/cartgenie/...arge/73000.jpg

Thanks for the comments
 

Thanks for the comments guys.

I think the main reason I have a problem is the fact that I use a basket on top of my front rack aiding in wheel flop.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=193249http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=193250

I am also surprised no manuf. has made some sort of nice Sano steering lock mechanism. Something integrated into the frame.

The front wheel velcro is a legit idea, but it screws with/tweaks my front fender. Doable, yes, but not as 'clean' as I was hoping for.

2 legged vs prop stand, esge 2 leg does hold bike upright .. on hard surfaces.If you hire A custom build, things can be made to suit, just wont be the
sales numbers there to have the asians mass produce millions of them.. cheap

I was noticing the other day that my downtube shifters, which I don't use, could probably moved wheel-side to keep the wheel from turning. Right now I only have one shifter installed, so I can't test it out, but when I dig up the other one, I may try it because I also have wheel flop issues.

German Tout Terrain incorporates a range of motion stop in their head tube,
then has the other part clamped to the steerer tube.

something that keeps your steering straight ahead is a hazard,
as anyone who has dropped a wheel into the space next to a railroad track will testify.

I was thinking some sort of press pin, with a flange on the fork and another on the headtube. When you come to a stop, pin goes through both flanges with a simple flick and holds them together as a unit.

I agree, turning a bike has advantages, hence my affinity towards Chris King.

Raleigh had a pin lock , but they used it to key lock the wheel turned ,
so there cannot be a jump on and ride away theft.

Portland has abundant custom bike frame builders,
hire one to make exactly what you want to have.

Velo Orange has this same thing for $10

Those bottles so far forward probably contribute to it a good bit as well. BTW, I prefer to carry extra water in the panniers. It stays much cooler there. Not what you want to hear, but I also forgo the kick stand and just lean my bike against something and lay it on its side if there isn't anything to lean against.

To the OP:

I just use a velcro reflective strip wrapped around the front wheel rim and the downtube if I want to make sure the front wheel stays forward. Sometimes I'll use another strip to keep one of the brakes applied too. Never had a problem with this method. Probably best to use a non-stretch strip or else you'll just replicate your bungee cord results.

Oh and for what it's worth I carry most of my gear on the front panniers and have a big handlebar bag stuffed full of heavy crap and still no tippin'

Thanks
 

I guess the simple route is the best, thanks for the advice.