Crown race removal tools
 

I have this tool but it tends to scratch the fork crown so I am less than pleased with it.

https://cdn.bike24.net/i/mb/39/df/07...0-d-147670.jpg

What are you using? Park puller?

Screwdriver, hammer and a gentle touch.

Same, but instead of a screwdriver, I use a thin flat-tipped punch/drift. Effective at spreading the impact to a broader surface and less likely to slip or scratch. Alternate hits on either side of the fork crown under the race. Takes less than a minute, no specialized tools needed.

I use a tool I got on Ebay that looks like a super thin "pickle fork" for removing ball joints. It's a wedge you could almost shave with it and it does a beautiful job. No scratching and it doesn't damage the race. I use a rawhide mallet with it and so far it hasn't taken much force.

You can make some protective shims out of a plastic milk jug.

Big enough to protect the crown and trimmed to match the curve of the race and you have to make sure it stays in place.

Or you can cut it and fold it over the tool.

I have the older Park and do this with it. ;)

I used a hammer and punch this past time, but have been tempted by these:


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4af67e7d6.jpeg

Triflow between the race and steer tube before I start. Old lock nut on the threaded end. Lock nut on ground on top of board. Fork touching my chest. Thin flat blade punch with small hammer single blow On front race and rear. Checking for movement as I go. No problems yet.

Park.

Why mess with poor tools? One bad pull on an irreplaceable fork should convince to buy something that works.

Instead of a flat-tipped punch/drift, I use the long-side edge of the chainwhip (or any flat bit of steel the right size). You lay it across the race bottom, flat sides just resting beside the little bulges on the sides of the crown, hold one side of the crown+tool. With the tool (whip) like that it is really easy to keep it from moving off the race bottom and also to steady the fork at the same time. Yes, steerer (protected) on the ground and fork tips on your chest, tap twice, flip, repeat as necessary.

True enough but most all tools require some finesse, if you're long on it , the tool(s) may be less critical.

That being said, the Park would not be my first choice but was an ok deal and requires more finesse than it should and can screw things up pretty easy IMO, I have the older version so.....

I have been a professional auto tech/mech most of my life and have a fortune invested in tools, bikes, motorcycles and cars, no qualms about buying good tools, special tools, cheap tools and spendy ones, used hammers for screwdrivers and screwdrivers for wrenches.

It takes what it takes, at the dragstrip, on the road and everywhere in between. ;)

Any makeshift method would have damaged my older Trek carbon fork and titanium Chris King headset crown race. It doesn't extend enough beyond the fork crown to wedge in any kind of handheld wedge, screwdriver, chisel, etc., without damaging the crown and crown race.

I took it to the LBS and they used their Park tool. Took a minute, no damage, no drama. They charged $5. I gave them $10, and felt guilty later. Should have tipped more. They've done other freebie favors for me when they weren't busy.

I'm temporarily using an Orign8 headset, which is quite a bit wider in diameter and can probably be removed with makeshift crown race pulling tools. It extends quite a bit beyond the fork crown. And I don't really care if the Orign8 crown race is damaged, as long as the fork itself isn't damaged.

But I won't try to remove the King headset or similarly sized, tight fitting crown race, without a proper tool.

Regarding the pressed-in headset itself, I bought an inexpensive metal tool off Amazon with the springy split-end. Works exactly like the Park version. No problem with that tool. Ditto affordable presses. But the Park Tools crown race puller is head and shoulders above anything else on the market, with the exception of a couple of similarly designed and equally expensive tools.

...I use the old Nashbar version of that same tool. If you are using it in such a way that you expect tightening the tapered wedge will pull your race, I can see how you might scratch the fork crown in some instances. A much better method of using this tool is to just tighten it to the point where the wedged edges make initial contact with the race, but not quite tight enough to contact the crown except very loosely.

Then , using two saw horses (which is what I use), support the tool on each side with the casting ends, not the adjustment bolts, resting across, between both horses. (The adjustment bolts will eventually bend if you use them for support. I guess you cold do this with a vise, if it were mounted in such a way that you had the jaws out over empty space, not the work bench). Drop in some penetrant along the seating line. I use a dead blow hammer and a piece of scrap 2x4 on the top of the fork to pound it down until it drops out of the race. Usually takes only two or three blows. Put something under the working area like a doormat to catch the fork as it drops, because it usually drops all the way to the ground.

I can't ever recall scratching a fork using this method. I, too, am not especially impressed with the Park version, which we have at the co-op here.

This made me curious... can you post a pic or link to it? Thx!

Instead of using the OP's tool alone, use it with some kind of rubber mallet. I use the rubber handle of an adjustable wrench.

I use the Campagnolo tool that appears very close to this, just a bit shorter. Classic.
i did make one modification- added a strip of leather at the base of the U. That way when the race breaks free, any paint is protected.

I usually (using a mallet) gently tap a utility knife blade between the fork crown and lower bearing race. Once you get a bit of space between the two using the slightly tapered blade, a twist will separate the race further. This is usually enough to remove the race, and if not, there will be enough room to insert a flat screw driver or similar tool for the final removal. I find this to be a fairly non-destructive way to go about the process. I have never had to remove a race on a carbon steerer, however.

Same, minus the Tri-flow. The punch I use for this is brass.

That is probably the proper way to use it. Good I asked.

My method involved not using it like wedges to pry it but hitting one side of the forged ends back and forth until it fell off. Of course this would jostle it around and scratch the crown.

I never scratch the crown using one very similar, as a puller not a wedge.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bcd5a5ebf.jpeg

I like that idea, I can imaging multiple uses for a brass punch. Just checked there's a smallish one for $7.43 P**** at A*****.

This. The latest version of the Park tool is a joy to use.
Expensive, but truly the right tool for the job.

Not identical to mine but very close. I do one or two a year so this is more than adequate for my needs.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ab91b72f7f.jpg

Campagnolo #729, FTW