BB30 CAAD10. Help please.
 

ok im stuck , i have had a sram force bb30 ( pf30) crank laying around i was going to use in my caad10 when i build it , so im building it and i find out its not fitting , so i went and found a fsa goss and that is strait bb30 it slides in but its pushing the bearing out of the frame, big LOL , so i am stuck i dont get it , i need some help on what i should do , and also how could i convert the pf30 to use in the bb30 , with a token BB ( if you even know about about token ninja bbs they are thread fit for press fit frames similar to wheels or praxsis )

What model token BB are you using? I think the ninja will work with a pf30 frame and BB30 cranks but not with a BB30 frame (which is what your CAAD 10 is) and BB30 cranks. This is because a pf30 frame has a 46mm shell so can accomodate the ninja with bb30 bearings but the 42mm shell of the CAAD10 can’t. I think the Token resolute line as a version for bb30 frame and bb30 cranks but am not certain.

BB30 sucks. This isn't changing my mind....

im not using token yet on this bike i have it on my other bike ( a bb90 ) , this frame came with enduro bearings , so i just tightened the crank down and the bear went back into place , this is my first bb30 so i guess i have to just work through the kinks and quirks , i have been impressed by the token ninjas i haven't had one creek since i installed it , im hoping them they have a thread fit i can use , right now i have a sram force pf30 crank i wanted to use in the frame , but failed to understand the difference , so i ran out to a few bike shops and found a fsa goss bb30 and thats where im at !

Oh, ok. I misunderstood. The PF30 crank should work with the CAAD10 and BB30 bearings. PF30 frames have 46mm shells to accommodate the PF30 cups. BB30 shells are 42mm, but becuase the bearings press directly into the frame, the bearings in the two systems are the same. So your PF30 crank with 30mm spindle shouldn’t care whether you’re using it with a PF30 frame or a BB30 frame.

I am really surprised that you were able to push the bearings out of the CAAD10 frame withnthe crank spindle and reinstall it by tightening the cranks. I have a CAAD10 and it takes some serious banging to get the bearings out once they are pressed in correctly, and a good amount of pressing to get them seated correctly.They fit in the frame shell pretty tight.

You should press in the bearings with a bearing press. I would be concerned that just tightening the crank down wouldn’t be enough to fully seat the bearing into the frame. They need to be flush up against the c-clips inside the frame and they need to be in there straight.

i understand , that is why i switched to the token thread fits so i would never have to deal with actual press fit , and for the most part the token has been great , maybe it loose some watts i dont know , but its sure has run smooth and silent compared to the pressfit bearings i started with that would creek and click :)

im still skeptical i can get my pf30 cranks into the frame , ill give it a whack though , literally :)

update : the sram force bb30(pf30) cranks did fit in with a whack , but they dont spin as freely as the FSA goss bb30 cranks , i have a space on the drive side , then bearing shield that came with the frame ( has cannondale logos on them ) on the drive side , and then i have the bearing shield and wavy washer on non drive side , so when i tighten it up its not spinning freely :( :( AND the crank hits the front mech so i had to move the mech over ( i havent tried to mount the rings , 53/36

all of this is temporary until i order a token bb but its good to know how to install bb30s :)

I haven’t had an issue with BB30.Once pressed in correctly with a bit of retaining compound, my BB30 bearings have been quiet so I haven’t had any need for other BB options. But I miss threaded bb shells generally. Just a better design

Anyway, both your cranksets should work,, but SRAM crank installation manuals are inscrutable.Seems like they have multiple different spacer arrangements depending on crankset and frame. Very annoying.

You have CAAD 10 standard BB30 and if I am understanding correctly the crankset you have has a removable spider. I am not super familiar with those, but If I am reading the SRAM website correctly, you should have a preload adjuster rather than wavy washer and a 5mm washer on the NDS and a 13mm washer on drive side. https://www.sram.com/globalassets/do...m-brackets.pdf

I have SRAM red with spindle for BB30 so all I need is the preload adjuster.

ok ill show you what im working with , i was sent these spacers with the frame , the spacers included a drive side which looks to be like .5 mm and non drive side that looks to be about 3 mm or wider two bearing shields and a wave washer .

my sram crank is pf30 and it tightens from the non drive side , but i have seen a few that tighten from the drive side so im confused on the difference , the sram crank came with what looks like a metal spacer and a plastic dust cap i think .

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2b25b03029.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0c5cf30b2d.jpg

When you said you hadn’t mounted the rings I thought you meant you had a removeable spider and newer model with spindle attached to the NDS. My Reds have spindle on NDS. I think the models with spindle on the drive side are 2010ish. I dont know what the right washer configuration is for those. You might google around for sram force installation manuals and videos.

Just realized something,so am editing. Could those SRAM cranks be gxp? If they are, thats why they don’t work.

Your Force crank is the 10spd version with the shorter 90mm spindle. It sounds like you have too many spacers installed. Remove the spacer that was put on before the bearing shield.

All you need to use is the bearing shields first, some 0.5mm plastic shims and a wavy washer. no spacers are necessary.

Any remaining gap should be filled with 0.5mm plastic shims.

The bb30 shell can ovalize over time that's why the bearings can seem loose and pop out when inserting the crank. Greasing the spindle liberally will minimise it happening.

The bb30 shell diameter is only 42mm wide. The bearings cartridges are 42x30x7mm in size. If you were to design a thread together unit, the bearings would need to be made smaller and would wear out faster.

PF30 shells are 46mm wide so allow more room for a threaded sleeve.

The Ninja BB BB30 options will only work with Shimano 24mm cranks.

There is no difference between a PF30 crank and BB30 crank in terms of spindle width. They are both 30mm.

How the crank arms attach on different models whether DS or NDS. It doesn't effect anything in terms of the overall width or position. It's just a design choice.

I think this is right. The other thing, when installing with wavy washer, it doesn’t need to be compressed all the way. As long as there is no play in the cranks and the wavy washer isn’t compressed flat, you should be good.

it seemed to work fine , i did 11,000 feet elevation ride over 70 miles and it worked great for now , too bad no thread fit option , i guess going to 24mm would defeat the purpose of having a 30mm but give me an easier install , now im looking for an affordable bearing press so i dont have to bring it in to shop :( , the turntables keep turning ;I

I like my wheel mfg universal press. It was around 50 bucks two years ago.