Gears for a 65 year old
 

I have ridden 35 miles several times on my Trek Navigator 1.0 7-speed with 26 x 1.95 tires, with 15-25 miles the norm. Usually 3x per week, sometimes 4x when in Florida. I average 15+ mph, depending on the wind. A1A is flat, so that is a plus; the bridges getting on and off the island are the only hills I have to climb.

I am looking to get a little more serious on the road in Florida but not yet willing to spend a lot. I am considering a bike in the $250-$350 range from a well known "online only" dealer, who has quite an extensive web site.

My question is should I get a 14-speed or 21-speed model. I am comfortable with a flat-bar bike, but considering traditional road-bike handlebars.

Bringing the Specialized to Florida is not an option.

Assuming it is a new model, neither. You should get at least 16 or 24 speed. Modern/new 7 speed wheel is likely to be freewheel and therefore weaker and unupgradeable. 8 speed and above wheel is likely to be freehub and therefore much more option for replacement and upgrade.

If you are looking at a vintage bike, 21 speed with a 7 speed freehub is good. No harm having more gears than needed. Never regretted having all triples in my bikes as my location is hilly and i very often have to carry load.

no filet mignon on a hamburger budget
 

Unfortunately for $300 you are not going to enjoy the pleasure of riding a really lightweight bike with high quality components. It does make an amazing difference. For years I rode a vintage Motobecane Le Champion. It "only" had 21 speeds and a freewheel (no freehubs back then) but the Phil Wood hub wheels were first rate. I could coast down a hill and overtake riders on $300 bikes who were pedaling. It cost me a month's wages in the early 1970s but provided years of pleasurable riding. As I got older the aggressive riding position and carpal tunnel syndrome (bicyclists palsy) made the bike much less pleasurable and I finally gave it away.

For fitness, hopefully this should do
 

Still not ready to get real serious in biking, but thanks for the replies. Didn't really expect a reply since there seems to be little patience for lack of understanding of gearing in some forums.

Decided on a bike with 30/42/52 front and 12-25 8-speed.

Figure I'll be comfortable with this as my 2007 Specialized Sirrus is 28/38/48 12-25 8-speed at home and better than my 42T 14-34 7-speed Trek city bike in Florida.

Really just looking to build up to comfortably ride a flat 20-35 miles 3x-4x per week.

That sounds fine. The 42 with the 12-25 will work great on flat roads and smaller hills, and the 30 chainring will be good on bigger hills or stronger headwinds. The lowest gear, 30 front and 25 rear, is about the same gear as the 34 front and 28 rear on newer road bikes -- good for moderate to somewhat steep climbs.

You probably won't use the 52 front very often, but that's okay. A triple crank works great, with the middle chainring right at the speeds where a lot of riders spend most of their time.

Right. Triple crank is easy to figure out which chainring to use.

Middle ring: general purpose. Starting from stationary, accelerating, mild climbing.

Big ring: cruising.

Small ring: climbing.

Thanks for all replies
 

Great simplified explanation.

Trek Navigator 7 speed , one option hybrid hub rear ,internal gear 3 speed +a cassette .. Sachs made a 3 by 7 (

SRAM bought out Sachs , but they dropped the Dual Drive.. this year..

Sturmey Archer still offers a version of that.. new rear wheel..


Other option New Efneo GTRO, a 3 speed planetary gear crank , no derailleur, so it will shift stopped. or at any speed

a 28t low, + overdrive to act like a 40 or 50t,,& Patterson Metro is a 2 speed 28t , + a 45t in overdrive..

chainring through gear box turns faster than the crankarms.

the way slack seat tube on your comfort bike is not the easiest thing to put a triple chainset & FD on ,

so these are ways to get around that..





.....

with a 12-25 8-speed. and 30/42/52 front really dont nreed that big a gear, 52tv was when freewheels were 14 or 13 t

12 a 48,38, 24 will be tall enough. 12 - 34 better hill ratio set.. (oh but you are living in Florida not NY.)


but bike companies fit cranks the other companies sell them for the best price , by the truckload.


once you have it you are free to substitute, your bike shop can help with that..


My LBS assembles the Bikes Direct ones for people who are zero on mechanics
costs a bit
but the work is as good as the regular bikes, just you have the guy that shipped you the bike , for warranty claims ..
no one local.








...

65 yr old still learning
 

Thanks. Didn't know there were upgrade options for the Trek 1.O Navigator.

Will recommend to others to look for sales at local bike shops before buying from BD.

Bent spoke and needed biker friend to help assemble and adjust. Local bike shop would be less aggravation. Also, was supposed to come with gear selection indicators, but just has clear window.

This is the simplest explanation, I have seen. Thank you!

The OP seems happy with his new bike, which is all that really matters ... but I'm confused on what was really gained in the gearing.

Old bike: 11-34 with 42t chainring: 32-98 gear inch range
New bike: 12-25 with 30/42/52 rings: 31-111 gear inch range

A bigger chainring on the old bike would produce a similar top end at the cost a slightly higher low end, which doesn't matter given the lack of terrain in FL