Filling those flutes!
Have to give our one and only Drillium Dude massive thanks for the inspiration (and the advice) on how to paint flutes. These early Dura-Ace cranks never quite looked right as-is, but they pop so much better with the black flute.
Now it's time to dig up some proper black chainrings for it (and ditch the half-heart shape of the second-gen 600EX-style rings). BEFORE: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...510f5f57a.jpeg AFTER: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4e25cb103.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8020f19df.jpeg |
Beautiful! :thumb:
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They look great
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
(Post 21123001)
Beautiful! :thumb:
Originally Posted by Bianchigirll
(Post 21123030)
They look great
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9360b338ee.jpg -Kurt |
Nice!
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The low-lustre black (maybe even flat? -- can't tell for sure on my monitor) really suits. Well done.
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A long time ago, I saw a video of a guy filling in the lower portions of a Cyclone derailleur- as I recall, he used a blade or a card to swipe off the paint off the raised portions. Is that how you did this- or were you just "careful?"
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to fill the spider flutes you need a Leroy lettering pen, 1.5 or 2.0 tip. Often called a "mouse" It with very thinned paint will allow you to just paint the base of the indentation.
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Nice. I feel the 70s-ness of it. :)
The usual trick for filling flutes etc is to paint in with oil enamel reasonably carefully. Then take a folded up paper towel into a pad, and dampen it with mineral spirits. Wipe off the top of the painted part. Fold to expose a clean surface. Repeat as necessary. |
Originally Posted by The Golden Boy
(Post 21123235)
A long time ago, I saw a video of a guy filling in the lower portions of a Cyclone derailleur- as I recall, he used a blade or a card to swipe off the paint off the raised portions. Is that how you did this- or were you just "careful?"
Originally Posted by conspiratemus1
(Post 21123222)
The low-lustre black (maybe even flat? -- can't tell for sure on my monitor) really suits. Well done.
Originally Posted by repechage
(Post 21123284)
to fill the spider flutes you need a Leroy lettering pen, 1.5 or 2.0 tip. Often called a "mouse" It with very thinned paint will allow you to just paint the base of the indentation.
-Kurt |
Super job - the lettering pops like crazy! And I was wondering, too, about doing the spider flutes until I saw the "undefined edge" and then realized why you didn't go there.
That ring would look super-awesome with some golf-ball drillings; I think the original version was decorated that way? DD |
Originally Posted by Drillium Dude
(Post 21123491)
That ring would look super-awesome with some golf-ball drillings; I think the original version was decorated that way?
-Kurt |
Originally Posted by cudak888
(Post 21122927)
These early Dura-Ace cranks never quite looked right as-is, but they pop so much better with the black flute.
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Originally Posted by cudak888
(Post 21123297)
I used the @Drillium20%Dude method: Paint, then hit the raised areas with a rag and Goof Off. Works perfectly.
It's flat black - not even satin. I roughly masked off the arm, sprayed it black, and used the method I mention above to remove the excess. I'd do it on Campagnolo flutes, but not these. They're not defined enough to look good, IMO (and I don't think I'm good enough at it to get the edge defined below the beveled section). -Kurt |
Originally Posted by cudak888
(Post 21123555)
Some of them were...want a job? :lol:
-Kurt Oh, well - I had a brief, shining moment where I had skillz. Moving on :) DD |
Very nice! A touch of class to classic.
I did similar with a Campy crank on the Colnago... https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ae8418a040.jpg |
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0d72e0b166.jpg
Wipe only in one direction...no cleanup yet paint is not dry enough! Here is my attempt, I do not use a ruling pen, I use a pinstriping brush and either a "high" quality nail polish or "One-shot" sign painters paint. I will lightly skim the excess while the paint is still wet...I do this in order to minimize the amount of paint I will need to clean up after its dried. Then as already suggested above, I use just a drop (so almost dry) mineral spirits or acetone on a block that is tightly wrapped with either a paper towel or the sacrificial t-shirt. I also make sure that the surface of the towel or "t" is as flat as possible in order to only wipe the areas that need paint to be removed. Works for me. Ben |
Originally Posted by P!N20
(Post 21123731)
Very nice. Love early Dura-Ace. Were those cranks available with back flutes out of the factory? I'm sure I've seen them before.
Originally Posted by repechage
(Post 21123762)
that is why the Leroy pen- only for the flat bottom area- the way the depression terminates on the Shimano crank you are correct, not enough definition.
Originally Posted by Drillium Dude
(Post 21123767)
Once I would've said yes, but I found out recently I don't have the precision required anymore :(
Oh, well - I had a brief, shining moment where I had skillz. Moving on :) What do you think?
Originally Posted by OldsCOOL
(Post 21123774)
Very nice! A touch of class to classic.
I did similar with a Campy crank on the Colnago...
Originally Posted by xiaoman1
(Post 21123784)
Here is my attempt, I do not use a ruling pen, I use a pinstriping brush and either a "high" quality nail polish or "One-shot" sign painters paint...
I used Testors paint pens on a pair of Moser shifters recently; worked great. The Dura-Ace arms were, of course, sprayed; given the large surface area. I haven't tried One Shot yet, but I've heard it's the best for this. What would you say? https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8df3f25219.jpg -Kurt |
Originally Posted by cudak888
(Post 21123830)
No idea, I think this is my second set; first came on a Schwinn Voyageur II.
http://velobase.com/CompImages/Crank...7E518E488.jpeg |
Kurt,
"One-Shot" is the best but pricey and hard to find. I usually get mine from sign paint suppliers, and have had some luck recently at art supply stores...it is thick and need to be reduced but flows out extremely well. If you use a stripping brush you can go from thick to thin to fill large areas tapering down to a fine line. Try buying primary colors and mix your own, they also have gold paint that is really nice looking...not that cheap look that a lot of golds are known for. The arms are coming just trying to decide on the "colors"..stay tuned. Pin stripping and detailing on regular parts is the best way to add a little individuality to stuff... BTW nice job and the shifters :thumb: Best, Ben |
Originally Posted by P!N20
(Post 21123874)
Velobase seems to think they were available in black: VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano GA-300, Dura-Ace EX
I went straight to looking for the previous generation's rings when I got these. I didn't even look at the EX rings, as I resolved to change these the moment the cranks became mine. I have no love for the heart-shaped crankset pattern that became the norm in the mid-1980s, and - personally - I think it kills the visual interest of the crank. -Kurt |
Originally Posted by cudak888
(Post 21123878)
Oh - you meant black chainrings. Interesting.
I went straight to looking for the previous generation's rings when I got these. I didn't even look at the EX rings, as I resolved to change these the moment the cranks became mine. I have no love for the heart-shaped crankset pattern that became the norm in the mid-1980s, and - personally - I think it kills the visual interest of the crank. -Kurt Black flutes with black rings. |
Originally Posted by P!N20
(Post 21123874)
Velobase seems to think they were available in black: VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano GA-200, Dura-Ace (Black)
http://velobase.com/CompImages/Crank...7E518E488.jpeg |
One-Shot is an excellent paint for this sort of thing. I dabbled at pinstriping once (I really want a box striped bike) and discovered it. Flows, adheres and stays where you want it perfectly.
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Not a flute but filled this with a fine tip brush. Let it dry then buff over the top with a rag on the end of my finger.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3adab2450.jpeg |
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