|
Is my Centurion worth rebuilding?
I scored a Centurion road bike at a garage sale for $20. The previous owner left it out in the rain a time or few. The frame is double-butted (per the tube decal) and the bike is fitted with a full Shimano 600 gruppo. The Wolber rims (700c with a 6-speed freewheel) are clean and true.
The chrome headset, the braze-ons, and the chromed parts of the derailleurs are rusted. The chrome headset, I can clean with wadded aluminum foil. The derailleurs, I can polish when I clean them. The braze-ons, however, have me stumped. The bike is a pretty turqouise color with silver head-tube and seat-tube. The fork crowns have inset type in silver. I'd like to keep the original paint and decals, since the colors are so nice and the lugs are pretty. How do I remove the rust from the complicated braze-ons without further damaging the paint on the tubes? I thought that maybe a brass-brush on a Dremel would let me have some control? After the rust is removed, must I prime the metal before applying touch-up paint? I assume that for complex items like cable-guides, chain-hanger, pump-lug, and bottom-bracket cable-guides that a bottle & small brush is the way to go? I've been told that Sherwin-Williams stores have a color-analyzer and can match the colors well. Any other ideas on where to get the right colors? I'll post photos, but I want to degrease first. Can I use orange-based degreaser directly on the paint without damaging it? Also, what should I use to clean & degrease the white rubber brake-hoods? Thanks! |
"How do I remove the rust from the complicated braze-ons without further damaging the paint on the tubes?" Oxalic acid. Do a search, there are several threads.
|
Unless the rust is more than surface rust, and from your description that's not an issue, it is well worth the time to restore...
Of course that is answering your title, the text seems to read like you are going to restore, you are just looking for advice on removing rust without damaging the paint... There I can't help you. :) |
And remember, pictures are mandatory :D . Is this an Ironman?
East Hill |
Originally Posted by East Hill
And remember, pictures are mandatory :D . Is this an Ironman?
East Hill |
It certainly sounds like an Ironman with the Shimano 600 gruppo...
Don't worry Little Darwin, I have to take photos of the latest mixte finds for bigbossman :D. But I'm off to the Bike Expo today...it would be nice to see the unobtanium in it's full glory though. East Hill |
I thought I had done well paying $50 for a tatty 105 Ironman, so you did REALLY well!
Orange citrus-based de-greaser shouldn't harm the paint. I solved the soiled white hoods on my Ironman by replacing them with black hoods:D Top (Time for a 'show us your Ironman' thread, I think) |
Originally Posted by top506
(Time for a 'show us your Ironman' thread, I think)
(old photo, with hard as a rock icky black saddle which went to A. Wright to complete his TA Comp) http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...l/IMG_0385.jpg (new photo with much prettier saddle (BG Jett), posing with Mr. East Hill's LeTour) I went for a ride on this Miami Vice beauty about three days ago. East Hill |
Heck, the crankset alone is worth more than you paid for the whole bike!
|
Sorry, no help here on the rust issue either. I have yet to try oxalic acid on a frame in much worse shape than that. One important thing to remember with an oxalic acid bath, however, is that the inside of the tubes, which are not painted, will be cleaned down to the metal too, and they may flash rust. So if you go the oxalic route, be sure to treat the insides of the tubes with FrameSaver, Amsoil, or another wax sealant.
I'm not sure what the jury is on touch-ups. Some purists say not to touch up at all. Not sure what they would suggest, then. Clean it, leave it be and just use wax over it? I'm prepping an old frame with great paint and very few chips (none of which developed surface rust over a period of 28 years), but I sealed the chips with a clear nail polish. I'm not a purist, though, and I plan to ride quite a bit. I think if you have exposed metal, but it never gets wet and is stored in low humidity, it won't rust very fast. So, it's possible if you simply clean the rust you have, it might remain clean for a while. Or you could touch it up or apply clear on the spots. Have you seen the Centurion write-up on Sheldon's website? It appears the Elite RS is an upper mid-range bike. Tange 2 tubing, while not the best Tange, is only a few steps down from their best - a very nice tubeset. Also be sure to add your bike to T-Mar's Centurion database thread (might be good to private message him with the info as well, as I believe he is on hiatus from BF). Oh, one more thing: sharp looking bike! |
I'd have given 100 just for the wheels.
|
Intresting mix of comps: Tange headset and BB, Dia-Compe brakes, early index 600 drivetrain.
Top |
Re-build???? That nice bike just needs riding!!! Anyway, here's my Centurion Ironman
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...2/DCFC0003.jpg |
FH, I know you've been looking for a nice, vintage/classic roadie for a while. That's a great find at five times the price. Best of luck with it. Sorry, I can't help with the rust issue. I'm not a purist or an expert, but I like my bikes to be clean and rust free. So I would spot sand any silver section that has rust and touch up with metalic silver. The turqouise will be harder to match. But like I said, I'm not a purist or an expert.
|
I have an Elite RS just like that, and think it is a great bike. Currently it's undergoing upgrade, but it was a great bike just like that.
Paul |
my centurion
Heres a link to my Centurion and some other old school bikes, plus newer ones. I wish I had found your bike, I'm on the lookout for another project.
http://www.myspace.com/eccentriccyclistcharlie |
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:24 PM. |
Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.