Di2 rear derailleur giving me nothing but problems
I let my bike sit for a while, and now that I’m back on the horse I’m having issues with my rear derailleur. So far I’ve replaced the shifter, junction box, and all cables. Where I’m at:
The junction box shows a battery level light when the right shifter is held down, so the shifter is working. The rear derailleur did attempt to activate when I plugged in the new shifter, but when the shifter buttons are pressed all I hear is a faint click and no actual shifting takes place. Im not able to get it to go through the crash reboot. When I hold down the button on the junction box it’ll go solid red, but I can’t get it to flash and go through the crash reboot process. I attempted to move the derailleur by hand and it didnt want to budge. Not sure if this is good or bad. im really at a loss here. Any advice before I give up and pay a shop to fix it for me? |
DO NOT try to move either derailler 'by hand'. You risk breaking linkages internally causing fatal demise of the
innards. I once thought I had a major system failure, but it turned out to be failure to fully insert the cable jack into the socket. This despite repeatedly, using the Shimano tool putting 'lots' of pressure on the jack and gently tugging to make sure it was seated, but it was not. Since you have replaced everything but the RD, the last other option is to remove RD, find a friend with Di2, pop their cable out and plug it into your RD and see if it shifts. Absent that your best third option is a shop with a Di2 guru and an the requisite computer/software/ interface to assess the system. My local dealer says 98% of the time in his experience Di2 'fails' are incompletely plugged in cables. |
Mine has been problem-free for five years. What you have is not normal, so I would definitely suggest taking it to a competent shop, and if it is under warranty, possibly pursue a warranty claim.
|
Originally Posted by sch
(Post 21038576)
DO NOT try to move either derailler 'by hand'. You risk breaking linkages internally causing fatal demise of the
innards. I once thought I had a major system failure, but it turned out to be failure to fully insert the cable jack into the socket. This despite repeatedly, using the Shimano tool putting 'lots' of pressure on the jack and gently tugging to make sure it was seated, but it was not. Since you have replaced everything but the RD, the last other option is to remove RD, find a friend with Di2, pop their cable out and plug it into your RD and see if it shifts. Absent that your best third option is a shop with a Di2 guru and an the requisite computer/software/ interface to assess the system. My local dealer says 98% of the time in his experience Di2 'fails' are incompletely plugged in cables. |
OTOH, if the 10spd RD turns out to be toast, it is 'relatively' inexpensive to go to 11 spd. New RD/FD and cassette
and that is all you need. The brifters and chainrings and oddly IME chain all don't care. The cables and A/B boxes also don't care. If you get a GS RD you can go to 11-34 and probably 11-36 cassettes (some have posted positive shifting on 11-36 with an unmoded GS, but wolftooth type extenders are $6-10 on amazon). But I am thinking of my experience with 6870 GS, the 8000 series Di-2 has a greater intrinsic range than the 6870. I have a spare 10spd RD for my recumbent which is where the original 10spd 6770 RD went. It is NFS. |
Originally Posted by misterwaterfall
(Post 21038402)
Where I’m at:
The junction box shows a battery level light when the right shifter is held down, so the shifter is working. The rear derailleur did attempt to activate when I plugged in the new shifter, but when the shifter buttons are pressed all I hear is a faint click and no actual shifting takes place. |
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