Put a 130 hub in a 135 frame? Steel.
I'm probably going to need to temporarily pare down my bikes for a short term contract.
I got to thinking about the gravel bike as a road bike. It's an older steel CX bike with Canti's and 135mm spacing. I took a set of road wheels and tightened it up. It works and the wheel is centered. I have a bar end shifter so I switched to friction, and it smoothly sailed through the Campy cassette. I'd be pretty limited with gears, since I have 12-30 and 12-25 cassettes for the road wheels, and the gravel bike is 40t 1x. Still this could allow me to go on casual road rides by only bringing spare wheels. If I need to point up a mountain, hopefully it's a dirt road and I can put on my other wheels with a much wider cassette. I sort of would like to maybe meet in the middle though, like 1.5 or 2 mm spacers on each side. I can't put spacers under the locknut, they'd have to be outside due to the construction of my hubs. Is this a worthwhile endeavor? |
So you can’t add a 2mm or so spacer to just the NDS? If you could and had enough spoke threads to re-dish the wheel you would end up with a stronger wheel.
John |
Originally Posted by 70sSanO
(Post 21563733)
So you can’t add a 2mm or so spacer to just the NDS? If you could and had enough spoke threads to re-dish the wheel you would end up with a stronger wheel.
John |
I wouldn't bother with spacers. Any steel frame can handle a little flex like that. For years, everyone road 130 mm wheels in frams that wanted 126, and it worked fine. Shimano made their 8 speed Dura Ace hubs with rounded axle nuts to help spread the frame.
2.5 mm deflection on each side just makes getting the wheel skewer tight a little bit more of a hassle. Beyond that issue, there is no issue. |
I thought my steel frame could handle being spread from 130 to 135, and I didn't need to worry about bending the dropouts so they were vertical. Worked for about 6 years, then the frame broke.
Next I swapped a 135 wheel into a 130 frame, without spreading the frame. Worked one or two years, until the dropout cracked. Slow learner, but I can learn. Now I try to match hub width to frame width. |
Originally Posted by pdlamb
(Post 21563753)
I thought my steel frame could handle being spread from 130 to 135, and I didn't need to worry about bending the dropouts so they were vertical. Worked for about 6 years, then the frame broke.
Next I swapped a 135 wheel into a 130 frame, without spreading the frame. Worked one or two years, until the dropout cracked. Slow learner, but I can learn. Now I try to match hub width to frame width. |
Originally Posted by rosefarts
(Post 21563746)
Neither of my road wheels have threaded axles or cup and cone. Early aughts Campagnolo and somewhat newer Stan's 3.30ti. I could redish the Campy wheels no prob, but I'd be putting these back on the road bike in 3-6 months. And the spacer would still have to be loose on the outside of the locknut.
John |
Originally Posted by rosefarts
(Post 21563772)
Do you suppose stretching it vs compression makes a difference?
(Disclaimer: I'm not an engineer, but I played one on Railroad Tycoon.) |
There is a $7.50 spacer on Amazon that would work. Dishing the Campy wheel, with the open pro's, would be easy enough. Then I wouldn't have to adjust the derailleur, I could even leave it friction for both wheels if I wanted.
Looking at both Amazon and eBay, it looks like 2 months to get it. So even if I went this route, I'm not patient enough to wait. |
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