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-   -   surly cross check build question - BRAKES! (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=825513)

tsardoz 06-15-12 12:18 PM

surly cross check build question - BRAKES!
 
OK I want to build a jack-of-all-trades bike that I can mainly use in city cycling and minor touring (no 6 month rides but I did these 30 years ago!)
I have no interest in racing or mountain biking.
All roads will be paved.

I already have an aluminium Shimano 105 road bike (el cheapo) and have two wheelsets - a stock Alex rim 700C 32 spoke and a Mavic Aksium 700C set.
I want to buy another bike that is more versatile than the 105 bike but would prefer to use my existing wheels to save money.
I also want to spend minimal amount!
I should also mention I am 50 and not so fit but would prefer to ride my bike up hills rather than get off and walk.
The lowest gearing I have on the 105 bike is 39/25 which is much too high, especially if I want to carry extra weight in panniers

I have read good things about the SRAM gearset (compact crank gets 34/32 which is more my style).
I am also a fan of steel bikes - given I am very overweight a few pounds in bike weight for carbon frame is a waste of money and effort.
The Surly Cross Check looks pretty much my style so matching this with the SRAM APEX set seems a good plan.

I also want to be able to fit mudguards/fenders.
I figure bigger tyres are better (eg 700x32)
But I start getting confused when I look at brakes

The Cross Check works with V-brakes or centerpull.
I see if I want mudguards that mini-V are a bit small.
Avid Single Digit 7 seem to get great reviews and should provide room for mudguards/fenders?
Is this right?
What levers do I need to pair with these if so?
I will be using drop bars, not straight.
Are v-brakes better than cantilever?
I do not expect to have a full load touring bike very often but it might happen.

Any other suggestions other than what I am thinking? (eg non Surly CC)

EDIT:
I was looking at something like Tektro RL520 which says it is for use with LINEAR pull brakes but I am not sure if this includes V brakes (too many confusiing terms in cycling!)

Jaye 06-15-12 12:43 PM

I switched my Surly LHT from the canti brakes that it came with to a set of Avid SD5's and they are in my opinion a vast improvement. As for levers I used these and really like them: http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-Alloy-B...v+brake+levers

tsardoz 06-15-12 01:07 PM

Thank you they were the exact same ones I was looking at!

grolby 06-15-12 02:55 PM

V-brakes and linear-pull brakes are the same thing, and they require specific brake levers. You can't use them with SRAM DoubleTap brake levers, or any of the brake/shift levers that come with one of the group sets sold by Shimano, SRAM or Campagnolo. You can use traditional cantilevers, such as the Avid Shorty series.

As for whether v-brakes are better than cantilevers, well, they're definitely easier to set up for powerful braking and work really well. Cantilevers, if set up right, have as much power as you could possibly need, but they are very sensitive to set up. If they aren't set up well, they won't be as powerful. The major advantage of traditional cantilevers is that they are compatible with almost every drop bar brake lever. There are something like two v-brake compatible brake levers available on the market. If you want v-brakes, you'll have to use bar end or downtube shifters. Those are the major issues that I would consider.

Bacciagalupe 06-15-12 03:28 PM

IIRC v-brakes / direct-pull require either travel agents, or levers like the Cane Creek SCR-5V's.

Better yet, get some decent cantis like the Avid Shorty 4's.

They'll work fine with standard brake levers, will give you plenty of space for fenders or wide tires, and are good for mud clearance. Just use high-quality brake shoes and adjust them correctly, and they'll have the same stopping power as most caliper brakes.


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