Originally Posted by
petereps
Looks like I'll just get a chain tensioner, and test it out on a few standing starts to get my confidence. Thanks
You should work on getting a new rear wheel. You will find that using a chain tensioner is a pain in the buttocks in practice. It adds a significant amount of time to each wheel, chainring, or cog change.
You only need one. The right side. The left doesn't do anything. Also, set the wheel with the bolts FIRST then tighten the tensioner. This is the best way. Don't try to set the chain tension with the chain tensioner (yes, I'm fully aware of the irony of that statement
) The tensioner is designed to KEEP the chain from pulling the wheel forward by holding the wheel axle in place. It's not for pulling the axle into place as you set the wheel with the bolt or nut.
The Paul hubs are nice, but allen bolts are not good for this reason.
There exist dropouts that can handle the strongest standing starts with no chain tensioners. Titanium dropouts (like on the TK1 and Tiemeyer) can do that.