Originally Posted by
SJX426
The Sheldon Brown method can result in cracked cups. I’ve worked out a better method
here. The tool and cup are allowed to turn freely with my method.
merziac’s method will result in the cup tightening against the clamped blocks
Originally Posted by
robertj298
This is on an 84 Team Fuji.I've been using the Park 36mm HCW 10 tool
and a hammer and PB Blaster but can't get the fixed cup to budge.Any other tricks I might be missing?
This is on the drive side
Are you really trying to use a headset wrench on the bottom bracket? The HCW-10 is an open end wrench and isn’t really designed for the job. The
Park HCW-4 is the tool that is designed for the job. It’s an awful tool because it slips off but it’s better than what you are trying to use.
The thread on the drive is left hand so make sure you are turning it clockwise to remove. A cheater bar is commonly needed to actually break the cup loose. It usually works a but better than a hammer.