Old 09-09-20, 11:48 PM
  #3  
Maelochs
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Join Date: Oct 2015
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Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2017 Workswell 093, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE

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https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/valu...product/92897/ 2005 Kona Kona Deluxe Stock Headset 1 1/8 inch threadless Aheadset STS

https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...-headset-black Ritchey Logic Comp 1-1/8" Threadless Headset: EC34/28.6 EC34/30, Black

https://problemsolversbike.com/files/tech/s.h.i.s.pdf Cane Creek headset sizes cheat sheet

Cane Creeks recommended dimensions : S.H.I.S. 34 (Legacy name: 1 /18) Inside diameter 34 --- actually 33.90 - 33.95 mm (I believe the 28.6 is the steerer tube diameter and 30 is the inner headset diameter.)

Did you measure your tubes and headset crown race with a micrometer? Are you sure the dimensions are as you posted? Just asking, given the info above.

Also you say
Originally Posted by adlai
I see threaded headsets that say 30.2. 30.2 vs 30.0 seems to me like that would be enough margin to fit it on. (emphasis added)
Yes .... well, you need a Threadless headset. And apparently you bought the wrong size, based on what I see here, and on the fact that you could not make it fit.

I applaud you for not using the "bigger hammer" solution. Pounding on a CF fork with all the force reacting through the dropouts seems like a bad idea, I agree.

I made a DIY headset press out of PVC tubing when I was assembling a couple of carbon frames.

For the top I used a piece which supported the race with a piece inside it which acted as a guide. Flip the frame upside down, pop the cup into place, and whack the PVC vertically on the floor. Alternatively, use a support piece which is long enough to reach the floor in place of the fork, slide in a smaller guide piece, drop the headset cup down the guide piece, drop a larger piece over that, and hammer the PVC from the top.

For the fork race I used a PVC tube big enough to support the headset and longer than the steerer and slid the fork Down over that so that the PVC tube rested on the floor, holding the bearing race in place. I then picked up the fork by the legs near the crown on slammed it down. The force all reacts through the PVC to the floor---the steerer doesn't hit the floor, and the legs are pointing up, so no forces hit the fork anywhere except on the race and where it should seat.

The whole idea is never to pound the frame or fork against the ground.

I am sure there is something on YouTube about DIY headset presses. Pretty sure I found the ideas there.

However, if the headset is really a few millimeters too big, you might be heading for disaster. ..... If it is really just two-tenths of a millimeter too big, I would assume you could set the bearing race with a judicious use of force.
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