Originally Posted by
bulgie
* The special tool I mentioned for removing the FW is a steel cap that shipped with each Phil hub, but which most Phil owners have lost. It goes over the left side of the hub before you stick the skewer through, and transfers the pull of the skewer to the hub shell rather than to the axle, so the FW can't pull the axle to the right. Even though I have that Phil tool, I don't bother with it usually, I just make sure to barely crack the FW loose before loosening the skewer, to avoid shifting the axle over. But I'm a daredevil with a deathwish so don't follow my example, use the Phil cup-tool-thingy if you have one!
If I'm envisioning this tool and its usage correctly, seems to me one could substitue an appropriate size socket and washer.
Oh, and more on topic -- is freewheel relative position really relevant to axle cut length? To my mind, that length is the OLD, plus a little less than 2x the dropout thickness. Freewheel position is determined by spacer stacking (which in turn determines wheel dish), once the axle's been cut. Or is there something I'm missing?