Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 9,193
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
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Quoted: 1565 Post(s)
Diego Frogs made a good point about how the force on the wrench handle is not directed in the plane of the spline engagement, so the force is not just torqueing the cup, but also trying to rock the tool out of engagement!
Solutions are many:
If a long and fine-threaded M8 bolt isn't handy, use all=thread through the entire bb spindle and with large washers.
A longer wrench automatically improves the torque versus the unwanted rocking force, but any square-drive adapters make things worse.
I've used a swivel-headed ratchet to move the handle into the plane of the spline engagement, which helps keep the splines from rocking out of engagement.
And using my 18" adjustable wrench on the flats of the tool, I can tilt the wrench handle inward toward the plane of the splines.
Note also that Park's newer tool with the huge hole going through it is a lot shorter in height, so by itself this improves matters.
I am also recalling an aftermarket titanium socket-headed bolt with M8x1mm threads taken from the head of a Super-Record seatpost having enough threaded length to be useful here.