04-06-17
Levers, cranks, pedals and rear derailleur went on.
Cranks are Shimano
Ultegra 6800 with 50/34 gearing and 170mm crank arms.
The temporary 105 cranks came off and the bottom bracket was checked to make sure the dust seals were intact. The 0.5 mm nylon spacers which came with the Enduro bottom bracket were retrieved off the old crankset. These went on the new crank spindle and a thin layer of Mobile1 synthetic grease was applied. The crank spindle slid through the bottom bracket bearings without issue and the non-drive side crank arm was fitted. The arm only goes on one way.
Extra care must be taken to ensure that the crank arm "stopper plate" is installed correctly. The word "stopper" refers to stopping the crank arm from falling off. The inside pinch bolt holds the plate captive while it rotates down around the outside pinch bolt. A pin on the plate engages a hole in the crank spindle and this is prevents the arm from falling off should the pinch bolts become loose.
A plastic thingamajig cap or plug screws into the non-drive side end of the crank spindle and is tightened with a Shimano proprietary tool. The plastic cap's function is to pull the drive and non-drive side crank arms together and Shimano's torque spec is 0.7-1.5 Nm. Enduro however, uses the same plastic thing to set preload on the angular contact bearings and their spec is 3 Nm for steel bearings, 7 Nm for ceramic bearings. I went with the Enduro spec and quadruple checked for proper preload - no side to side play and crank arms spin freely. The non-drive size crank arm pinch bolts were greased and tightened little by little to 12-14 Nm.
The photo below shows the proprietary Shimano tool tightening the plastic cap doohickey.
Shimano
PD-M8000 Deore XT mountain bike pedals were attached to the crank arms after a generous application of grease to the threads. These don't have wrench flats on the shaft which saves weight but the tradeoff is more cumbersome installation and removal. An 8 mm hex wrench interfaces with the pedals from the inside of the crank arms and this design makes it especially difficult to remove the pedals when they are over tightened, as they invariably are. The torque spec is printed right on the pedal and was completely ignored.
Cleat tension is set by way of 2.5 mm hex screws visible near the +/- gradations in the photo below. These rotate from the loosest to tightest release five full turns and were set 1.5 turns from the loosest setting as a starting point.
Continued next post...