Thanks for the picture. I can't really see the welds, but I think I see fatter beads, so I'm guessing aluminum frame ... I think that is good in the long run, if you keep it ... The cables run over the top on my Trek 6000 too. It is not uncommon ... Is there a sticker on the front of the seat tube above the bottom bracket/crankset stating a number like 17 or something?
I agree with much of what Kapusta says. But I don't know how hard $1,500 would hit the family budget ...
So the bike you currently have is an older design (nothing wrong there) with a stem quill for the steering and handle bar mount (not good). It has seriously low rent RST forks that make it heavy along with other parts. But they are the biggie. And because you have a 1" steer tube (that the quill fits into on top), it is not easy to swap on a better fork
Also your seatpost is small on the old bike (1" ?). And that makes it hard to get good firm support for saddle mount in the extended position, plus it's heavy too.
As an example, I'm building a Specialized Hardrock Sport into an eBike. So I wanted a cheap durable frame (mission accomplished). I bought it off Craigs List (CL) for $80. When I got it home, it had cabling issues, cracked derailleur, and a stuck RST fork. I went looking for another. Fortunately it had 1-1/8" steer tube so forks are readily available (new or used). I got a used Manitou R7 Elite off eBay. The difference in weight was astonishing. 2785 grams for the old RST w/o dampening adjustment, 1625 grams for the R7 with full adjustability. That's like 2 1/2 lbs off the front end of the bike. Nearly a magic transformation. Prolly not really doable to yours with a 1" steer tube. Older high quality forks that fit 1" steer are hard to come by, and are usually beat ...
So what to do? I suggest selling your current bike to a woman/girl somewhat smaller than you are. It's still a nice frame with good stand-over for skirts, etc. I suggest buying a nice used mountain bike or good hybrid in an appropriate frame size for you, for your more adventurous outings on the local trails. Take your time and look hard. You'll find something good for pretty inexpensive. Especially if you can handle a mens frame with higher top tube for these outings?
I suggest pursuing that drop bar gravel bike. It could also be a used frame off CL with appropriate upgrades. But, I get wanting new. You do deserve it. Middle age has it's pluses, and one is being able to afford nicer things
I would likely build one out of a used chassis. But you are prolly not interested in tinkering ... So then it becomes a process of finding the right features at the right price ...
Features for me do not necessarily include disk brakes. I have them on my motorcycle, but that weighs a LOT more and goes way faster (all the time). Good V brakes with good pads, and rims with well pred'd braking surfaces, will stop 99% of the time plenty fast. And they are lighter - yeah!! Downhill mountain bikers need disks because they are using them a lot, and V brakes fade with a lot of repeated use in short amount of time. So you make that decision based on how often you brake and how hard ... If you are on/off the brakes every 100 ft at 30 mph, yeah - discs. If you brake every 500 feet and only go 20 mph most of the time, V brakes are fine. Race pace needs race level braking. Cruiser speeds do not.
A bike with a good standover and 1-1/8" steer is top of the list. 27.5 wheels are nice, but 26" will do too. I see no need for 29" on either bike. I'd prefer an aluminum frame (lightness and easily welded if needing repair) and there are plenty of hydro-formed aluminum frames out there (variable tube diameter/shape) which gives the designers some advantages in component loading. I would prolly look for a 1x11 gearset. No front derailleur, all shifting done out back. But I would not kick a 1x9 out of the tent. I would be looking for 30.9mm seatpost diameter, or larger. Many options in materials and offsets in that size. I would prolly start with a ridged front fork. It's light and strong. But if it turns out to be too rough, you can swap it for a good air fork in nearly the same weight somewhere down the road ...
For tires I'd be shooting for 2.1 out back and 1.75 up front. Maybe Schwalbe Marathons with the reflective white side stripes for much added visibility at dawn and dusk. They do work well on trails and gravel at 45 psi, and at higher nominal pressures will not detract from your road ride. I hope your new bike has double walled rims ... target weight 25 lbs, or less. That is not that easy a target to hit at your budget point, but prudent shopping will get you there
Watch this video for fitting:
seat height
The reach can be adjusted with stem length and drop or rise
Over time, you can swap on carbon bars, a carbon ahead stem, carbon seatpost to take your 25# bike down to 23#, or below - and lower the center of gravity (very good). No need to specify all those things up front. If they come along, great. If not, so be it. You will want to tweak your bike as you grow into it, especially if you start going faster on average. It's normal. Everyone does it.
You can see a picture of my wife's new (used) hybrid that I will pick up in a few days here:
Novara It will get an air fork (en route) and a changed ahead stem (in stock), then we'll go from there
It has many of the features I listed (not the modern 1x drivetrain ...) and it will become her new pedal only bike. Going to convert her old steel framed bike to eBike, if she likes the way my project comes out
