I think I unvealed a serious concern with rod brake. In a youtube video, the mechanic pointed that a out-of-adjustment rod brake is quite dangerous in a way I never expect.
He said if the pad is too far inward, it could snag on the valve of the tire, and potential rip the tube out.
It this is the front tube getting ripped out, this is a disaster of epic proportion...like locking up the front way and you become superman. I imagine no manufacturer would want to be liable to that.
Originally Posted by
BigChief
I have rod brakes on my DL-1. They are cool in a funky, old fashioned sort of way and I did, after much work, get a reasonable amount of performance out of them. At least for the speeds I ride. But they are difficult to set up, make wheel removal a pest and are no match for caliper brakes in stopping power.
Originally Posted by
T-Mar
Rod brakes are generally paired with Westwood style rims. These rims do not have a flat sidewall, but rather a a curved edge which provides insufficient contact area for caliper brakes and causes the brake pads to ride either up over or down under the rim, unless the rim is perfectly round and the pad centred exactly on crest of the curved edge. So, typically you'd have to replace the rims/wheels for a rod to caliper brake conversion.
Edit: I echo the previous sentiments regarding the performance of rod brakes. Brake performance is large a function of the coefficient of friction between the rim and pad materials. Chrome plated steel is far inferior to aluminum in this aspect and given that rod brakes are found on inexpensive models, I highly doubt that they would use premium brake pad material.
Originally Posted by
thorstein
I have a rod brake Raleigh Tourist DL-1 which I love to ride. That being said, function trumps form when looking for a commuter bike. Although I value lugs and decorative fork crowns, they will not help when trying to avoid sticky situations especially when braking is needed.
On the other hand, braking efficiency of rod brakes can be increased with the proper know-how. Also, as has been mentioned, if your riding style will not necessitate quick stops while at high speeds, the bike could work for you. After all, in the history of bikes, rod brake bikes have probably been used more than any other bike for commuting.
Weigh the pros & cons, and consider what your riding style will be.
Good luck!
PS - Being this is a biking forum, I should probably tell you to buy both!
Originally Posted by
dweenk
When you buy a rod-braked roadster, you should have some idea of the limitations and benefits the product that you have purchased.
Limitations:
1. Rod brakes
2. Difficulty of replacing tubes and/or tires
3. Availability of parts - brake parts, tubes, tires, etc.
4. They weigh a ton
Benefits:
1. They glide like a Bentley
2. People take notice when you ride by
3. You stole all of the cool from the places you ride past
Originally Posted by
Salubrious
One quick tip- many people complain about poor braking performance, but adjustment is key. One adjustment that is often not known is the brake levers; they are made of soft steel and they bend over time. They have to be bent back into position on a regular basis! The technique to do this looks scary but its fairly easy. You grasp the pivot point on the handlebar so it can't be damaged broken off when you do the 'adjustment' and with the other hand band that brake level down so you've got plenty of travel.
If this isn't done the bike can get quite scary! But if you pay attention to this the bike will brake as well as any machine with side pull brakes.
I sold by 1957 BSA Golden Deluxe a couple years ago and thought I was free of these things but a 1949 Royal Enfield came my way cheap so I still have a rod brake machine. The real pain the rear with these is not the braking power so much as the need for the wheels to really be perfectly round so the braking is even. The point here is I'm walking my talk- but I do also recommend the proper Kool Stop pads as they really help.