Originally Posted by
Woolly Mammoth
I did spend the weekend reading up on the sticking info, which there is a lot of great stuff there.
Carleton, I have a couple of questions regarding info that you put in there.
You put centering isn't an issue, when changing the gears 2-5 times during a session. What are you talking about when you say "centering"?
What is so good about the Dura Ace front and rear nuts?
Originally Posted by
Kayce
There is a certain amount of play in the spacing of the holes in a chanring and spider with the bolts. So your ring can actually be in a variety of positions when tightened down. But it doesn't really matter all that much. Just set your ring up however and make sure it is tight.
The durace nuts are top of the line. They have a really nice finish, don't strip easily, and have good teeth to grab the frame/ fork.
+1
The built in washers on track nuts tend to seize up and over time then when you tighten your nut, the axle spins and creates havoc. Dura Ace nuts last longer.
Originally Posted by
Woolly Mammoth
The Fuji and Felt that you mention above are very comparable. The only thing is that the TK2 comes with 3T Sphinx bars which I would not recommend for a newbie. Just take those off and install the road bars of your choice (I suggest 40cm wide or less, NOT the usual 42-44cm).
Carleton, what is the deal with Sphinx bars?
Sphinx bars are generally wonky. Unless you are riding in that "invisible aerobar" position in the photo above (which is only useful in solo breakaways) then the bars will actually hinder you. Even world-class racers stopped using them. I definitely don't suggest them for new racers. Every person that I know personally who tried them, ditched them after one or two sessions on them. I really don't know why Felt puts these on that bike. I really don't.
Standard road bars or 3T Scattos are what everyone uses:
