Originally Posted by
koenbro
I thought that Son28 and SonDeluxe
have the same output (3 Watts at 6 Volts), but maybe I am missing something; they do
mention the output curve ramping up differently . Can you pls clarify what you mean by different/higher output? Either way, I plan to add a converter/charger to power a GPS and or cell phone during the day. Haven't settled yet, but am aware of Busch + Muller
USB Werk or
e-Werk. Do you or any one know of other solutions to connect the dynamo hub to cell phones and GPS units?
As for the Shimano 105 hub, you touched on my biggest worry regarding the wheelset order. I was pretty comfortable with the rest of the order, even the somewhat unusual 32 soke config that I requested instead of 36, but the rear hub was a big question. I hope the 105 is at 130mm, because that is what the inside opening of my rear fork is.
I pasted this:
But if you ever want to use a charger to keep you phone or GPS charged on tour, you'll get better performance at low speeds with the SON28.
from:
https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/schmidt.php
There are lots of ways to turn dynohub power into power for GPS, etc. When touring, I run my dynohub power into a Sinewave Revolution to produce USB power. There are several other competitors to the Sinewave too. My particular Garmin does not play well with a Sinewave directly without a pass through cache battery in the circuit. So, I send my dynohub power to the Sinewave, then the USB power from the sinewave goes into my pass through cache battery. And then I draw power from that battery to feed into my GPS to charge it. I can charge my GPS while I am rolling and my GPS functions while being charged. I think the B&M werk includes a pass through cache battery, and I think the Forumslader (spell?) also includes a battery, but the Sinewave does not.
The 105 is 130mm. I did not know if your frame was 130 or 135mm, often touring frames are designed at 135mm because touring bikes often use mountain bike drivetrains for lower gearing. I suspected that the 520 might be 135mm for that reason, but if you know it is 130mm, you are set. It used to be that 130mm was considered a road size and 135mm was a mountain bike size.
With a steel frame, you can put a wheel in the frame that is 5 or 6mm off without a problem, other than the wheel does not drop right in. I am using a 135mm hub in my rando bike frame that is 130mm. And I am running a 126mm hub in my vintage road bike with a 120mm frame. Thus, it is not that big of a consideration, other than the wheel dropping right it without having to work at it if you have the right size.
The last half of my five week bike tour last summer, I was self sufficient on power from my dynohub. I wrote up a description of what I use and why on a different forum. Some of my electronic device choices are a bit esoteric, so I am not saying it is the right way, just what works well for me. The link to that write up is at this link:
Electrics that I use for bike touring - what works for me.