View Single Post
Old 04-14-19, 11:17 PM
  #15  
starkmojo
Old and in the way.
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Eugene OR
Posts: 353

Bikes: Jamis Renegade and Kona Jake

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 73 Post(s)
Liked 47 Times in 23 Posts
Originally Posted by 01 CAt Man Do
As a newbe to e-biking I have to agree with most of your comments. I shutter to think what can happen going down a steep hill at 25-30 mph only to realize that your rims are wet or moist and your rim brakes are going to have a hard time slowing you down. I came close to having this happen before and almost ran off the road while going around a sharp turn ( on my normal road setup ).

For heavier e-bikes I also recommend a front shock. Mine doesn't have one and I've already noticed that some bumps or cracks in the road can deliver quite a shock to your hands. Hit something really hard at speed and you may even loose your grip on the bars especially if your hands are tired. ( I'll also note here that I would consider front wheel drive on a road bike to be really dangerous, especially on wet roads and sharp turns. )

Now as to retro-fitting the old 70's ten speed....I'd think you'd fair better with a newer but used aluminum frame bike. Doesn't have to be new. Find a nice used hybrid or older hard tail MTB with front shock and then have someone install a retro e-bike kit. That said I've seen complete cheap MTB style e-bikes ( front shock and disc brakes ) on Amazon for close to $800. You'd have to pay someone to put it together more than likely and pay shipping but hell of lot of LBS's that sell new e-bikes do the same thing.
My concept right now is to start with a KONA Jake (steel) upgrade to a shocked/disc ready fork, add and extracycle leap (rear discs) and get some really bomber wheels (tandems are usually really strong) this will also lengthen the wheelbase which will make handling better at higher speeds (and harder at slower, ask and moto-biker). at this point its probably the same cost as a new bike but it will have the money where I need it (brakes and shocks) and still have the drop-bar cyclecross cockpit I prefer. I think steel is probably a better choice than aluminum as aluminum is impossible to fix. steel can (within reason) be welded.

Power that with a bafang HHSD and two battery packs because my employer is afraid of batteries, so I cannot charge them at work. hell I might even add a brake light off the motor cutoff sensor...

EDIT: Although i just came across this poking around online: https://ninerbikes.com/pages/the-mcr-9-rdo I think that might be the perfect starting point for a long distance ebike.

Last edited by starkmojo; 04-15-19 at 06:39 AM.
starkmojo is offline