View Single Post
Old 07-11-20, 10:25 AM
  #40  
ROMP
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by ulstoft
Dear Touring Community,

I am investing in an expedition quality touring bike. Initially, I will use the bike on a UK tour, roads and canals plus some light off-road, mostly in remote areas of Scotland. But I would like something that I could eventually use to do long distance touring in remote places...

I have found a gentleman that builds custom expedition touring bikes. He has proposed the specification below. I do not really know mountain bike parts too well since all my recent bikes have been road or gravel. I would be grateful if anyone can point out any part replacements I should take into account.

I had considered 26 inch wheels. But I am quite tall and it makes me look like a man on a child's bike. I know that 26 inch tyres/wheels/spokes are easier to source in remote places.

I think I am probably going to get V-brakes rather than disc, for the simplicity and the cost savings. But I do feel pressured towards getting disc brakes if for no other reason, it will give the bike better resale potential down the road. I realise that most new bikes are coming with disc now, even road bikes.

Also, I'm on the fence with the dynamo hub, I'm wondering whether it is a real asset or an expensive toy. I am probably going to give it a miss for now.

Frame: Reynolds 525 frame (700c Wheels) size 57
Rear Mech: Shimano Deore XT RD-T8000 SGS
Front Mech: Shimano Deore XT FD-T8000
Cassette: Custom Shimano 11-34 10 speed
Shift Levers: Shimano Deore XT SL-T8000
Chainset: Shimano FC-MT300 175mm cranks 44-32-22t
Bottom Bracket: Shimano Deore XT BB-MT800
Chain: KMC X10
Wheels: Handbuilt Bitex 101 hubs Ryde Sputnik Rims 36 spokes
Bk Levers: Shimano Deore BL-R780
Brakes: Shimano Deore BR-T610 (Juin Tech M1s)
Pedals: Flat Black
Clips Straps: NA
Saddle: Brooks B17 Brown Seat post: Ergotec 5
Rear rack: Axiom Journey Low loader: Tubus Tara
Handlebars: Ergotec 5 630mm
Handlebar Grips: Ergon GP5L
Bar ends Ergon GP5L
Bar Tape NA
Stem: Ergotec 4 110mm Black
Spacers: 55+20
Headset: Cane Creek 40 Series
Mudguards: Flinger F50
Tyres: Continental Contact Plus 700 x 32
Inner tubes: Schwalbe
Valves: Schraeder
Kickstand: Pletscher Single
Stickers: Trad Black
Headbadge: transfer

Extras:
. SON28 dynamo hub with Velocharger USB plug and B&M 60 Lux front light
. Tubus Tara front pannier carrier (Or Aluminium alternative)
. Upgrade to Brooks B17 Brown leather saddle
. Supply and fit Pletscher single leg kickstand
, Ergon GP5 Grips
. Shimano PD-EH500 dual purpose pedals
. Upgrade to Continental Touring Plus tyres 700 x 35
. Mirrycle Mountain bike mirror

Thanks in advance for any feedback.
Doesn't sound like expedition spec to me, but it could possibly do the job with a careful pilot and a light load. It sounds more like a traditional road touring rig.

There are four ingredients necessary for a capable expedition bike: strong frame/fork/wheels--wide tires--low gears--and PROPER GEOMETRY.

The spec above shows low enough gears, but shows insufficient tire volume. Other than that, consequential information is missing.

Strong frames and forks CAN be made from Reynolds 525. There are stronger choices in the Reynolds lineup. The geometry must be suitable for heavy loads or the rider will suffer. This is super important; bike handling has safety aspects, and poor choices here will wear you out quickly. No geometry info, no opinion.

700c wheels, with 32mm or 35mm tires, can be strong and reliable for fully loaded touring, but that's different from expedition touring. 26" or 650B tires in 2" or 50mm will withstand expedition use. The fact that 26" tires and parts are more available worldwide does not matter much any more, since the world is served overnight by FedEx. The fact that your appearance on the bike affects your wheel choices is unfortunate, and I am not qualified to dispense advice on that.

A dynohub, with nice lights, is both a real asset and an expensive toy, like the bike itself. There are other ways to light the road and charge your phone. But an "expedition" bike connotes "expedition" use, where battery stores and AC outlets are sometimes few and far between. My dynohub kept my phone charged for six weeks in the Gobi Desert. Not that there was a cell phone signal, but the GPS "blue dot" and the rest of the functions were welcome.

Disc brakes have their advantages and disadvantages. Consider THEM, not resale value. You do not ride resale value.

My personal preference is for drop bars (and long days in the saddle). I also prefer fenders, metal, not plastic. I mount the lights on the fenders so that I can remove the racks between tours. I run the wires in the frame tubes and taped to the underside of the fenders--out of danger when bushwhacking.

My expedition bike is a Thorn Nomad. Those guys know their gemometry, and they use tandem-gauge tubing.

Your proposed bike resembles my Mercian light touring rig--700x32 tires. It will handle a heavy load but that's what the Thorn is for.
ROMP is offline