Wow, you've never come across any?
The 'old' racer method (I believe it started with the legendary Eddie B.) was to measure the rider crotch-to-floor, multiply by .883, and set bottom-pedal-to-saddletop height there. Greg LeMond advocated using .885. I say either is a good starting point, to be further modified to the rider's comfort. (Too high, you get crotch-rub on the saddle, too low, you get a future filled with knee problems) I personally use the 'ancient' heel-on-pedal method -- comfortably centered on the saddle, heel on bottom pedal, leg locked out straight, which gives a good bend in the knee when the BALL of the foot is on the pedal.
Fore/aft saddle position is done by the 'plumb bob' method -- dangling a weighted string off the front of the knee with the pedals at 3 o'clock/9 o'clock, the string should either bisect the pedal axle or be just behind it, to make best use of the leg muscles. Forward position (in most cases) will usually negate the strongest leg muscles needed for good pedaling. Too far back will overwork the legs.
Another measurement is saddle-to-stem, roughly the same as fingertip to outside of bent elbow. Again, this is a STARTING point, everyone is best fit with small adjustments to these base measurements.
I also default to a span of no more than 1" above to 1" below saddle height for the bar, and customize from there; more than a few roadies will argue that, and that's fine, they've already BEEN fitted to theirs.
What EVERYONE should do is, once you have found that proper fit, TAKE MEASUREMENTS and duplicate them as closely as possible for future bikes.