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Old 09-29-19, 07:10 PM
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Unca_Sam
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
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Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)

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Originally Posted by cuyd
Thanks again. I am also wondering about electrolysis, I could use thick plastic foil and car battery charger or maybe old 9V cellphone charger. Just wondering is 9V enough and for how long should I keep it turned on. I guess it partially depends on type of rust. Another issue is sort of slime that could be produced by electrolysis, would pressure generated by water hose be enough to get rid of it from inside of tubes or maybe there are better ways?

I also need to protect internals of frame and the cheapest thing I came with would be just to pour bit of anti-rust paint inside and just shake frame to make it cover as much as possible. There's also boiled linseed oil, the thing is - it costs much more than raw one. And cheapest here is linseed varnish, but I am unsure is it possible to use them for protection.

Finally, type of paint. As I said, I could cheaply get some leftover lead paint but I am getting little paranoid reading about possible health hazards. Should I be even considering it?

One more thing, is heat gun safe for steel bike frame? I was thinking about quick-drying frame internals with it.
Where are you that you have leftover lead paint?

Use spray enamel or even rustoleum with a brush!

The car battery charger works because of the amperage, not the voltage. The phone charger won't work.

Fluid film aerosol will be enough to halt corrosion on the inside, once dry. The linseed oil would work too, and should be cheap. Boiled linseed oil is a drying oil and it's used to finish furniture. It will harden, don't use it. Linseed varnish is probably the same, and meant to harden, don't use it.
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